Precise1

ANOTHER Good to hear! Drain it out and overfill it up... I hope you get the same results others do. These really are stout little rigs and usually worth a little bit of TLC. B

Yep! I prefer to know what you are talking about. B

Your father is probably right, pushing the clutch in takes the load off of puts a load on the throw out bearing and should influence the noise (sometimes worse, sometimes better). Step one is usually to bleed the clutch (download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section for instructions), but how many miles on the vehicle, and has the clutch ever been replaced? B

OBD2 reader, it is your friend. Seriously, that is 1/2 the reason for the system and the place to start, it can tell you a lot! Some places like Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc (check to make sure) will loan a reader/check the codes for you for free, and a cheap reader (all you need) is about $40+ and worth the $. Sounds like you are in limp mode (ECU default setting for 'we have a problem'. Go to the Garage section and download a free copy of the FSM from the pinned thread, it will be your new bible. B

You are welcome. I no longer have a MT Pathy, but put fresh 4 quarts 80-w90 GL4 and one quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer in it when I did and had no issues other than a hard first gear shift on cold morning for the first mile. It was at about 140k and no gear whine though... Everyone seems to love the MT-90, talk about smooth shifting, no cold issues, etc but I never had a chance to use it. Will either fix or delay your issue? Maybe, but that is a hard thing to say. Will MT-90 do a better job/increase the odds? Probably, but I can't say how much. Depends on what that $25 means to you... For what it is worth, the manual trannys seem to degrade rather than catastrophically fail, there have been a lot of members that drove noisy trannys for a long time. B

First 4 words? B

Can you take/post a picture of them when you think they are aligned? B

Welcome tO NPORA, and I'm sorry to hear about the problem! I'd guess it is the torque converter or tranny, the transfer case seems to be pretty reliable. If you have a copy of the FSM (downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section, AT-13 has a list of preliminary checks, self diagnoses and diagnostic proceedures. I'd start there and see what you get. It just might answer the question and/or be pertinent for when (if) you tear it down. B

Well, if you don't know how old/what condition the existing oil is, that might be part of the problem and just adding another quart might not help much. You did see the link I posted, right? Summit also has flat rate shipping: Order Total Handling Fee $0.00-$24.99 $4.95 $25.00-$98.99 $9.95 $99.00 and up FREE (limited time promotion) You should be able to get 5 quarts to your door for $50. B

True, and some houses are worse than others when it comes to heat retention. If I manage it right, our house rarely gets over 80 degrees in the summer. Then there is also AC... True, in more ways than one though, unfortunately. I've seen you are getting more rain than down here, I think it has been essentially dry for 5 or 6 weeks now, wasting the good start that we had. It'll be 75 degrees today which is nice, but I'd like to be able to drink a glass of water this summer as well. It is so dry that I have had to add water to the fountain and one of today's chores is to water the planters with winter crops. B

^Bingo! And a roll of masking tape... Thanks AHB for posting the photo. The one on the left is a hardened bolt that is bolted through a bracket or component that is subject to load and/or vibration, and the other one is a lower grade 'standard' bolt for less critical fastening. No way to tell what they'd go to, but I agree that one of the driven components on the front of the motor is a likely bet. I'd be surprised if you don't figure out where the larger one goes, at least. As for the manual, do you not have access to a computer? It would be worth looking at (even if it isn't at the car) for some of the exploded views... B

Any decent hardware store will have them as well. It is really just a male pipe thread on one end (3/4" ?) and the barb on the other. Check around though, brass is getting expensive and you don't need the sticker shock... B

Ahh, good point. Yes, 'overfilling' the factory spec oil would probably be a big improvement regardless, assuming that it hasn't been changed recently. The MT-90 is a step above factory specs, but it certainly is more expensive as well. B

Putting in GL-5 would be worse than doing nothing at all. The manual tranny is GL-4 ONLY. Where in the world do you come up with $100 for the oil? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bpo-023-7729 B

See Below That is what I meant by maybe having to rock a sprocket, to make sure it lines up properly if it shifted slightly when the belt was removed. You should always count the teeth between the gears, it is the basic double check that nothing is off. If you did not make marks on the old belt (and corresponding marks on the pulleys) then it is hard to tell if anything has moved, The safe way is to find TDC, align the cams to the marks, verify the crank mark, install the belt and count the teeth. The thread I mentioned before that is in the Garage/How To section was written by a mechanic and does have all this information, including belt tensioning. Did you not take a look? B

You did download the FSM from the Garage section as well? That way you have hard copy, PDF and web based info... B

^Exactly. It should be easier to to replace an old belt rather than a broken one because the alignment should be there, but do not assume! Verify everything and at most you should have to rock a cam a little. There is a good write up in the Garage/How To section with some pictures and a whole lot of dialogue as well. BTW, no problem reviving old threads about the same thing, that is why they are there... B

I suggest you start a thread in the Parts Wanted and Parts For Sale sections, mentioning the possible trade. Trannys are always being sought after by someone... B

Also, make sure you are getting flow through the stock tranny cooler (bottom of the radiator) as well. That can cause heat and pressure issues as well. Nice video! I got it before I hit play, but I wouldn't have thought of it myself either. I'm suspecting mullet power? B

No problem! I didn't realize the S-A bars were 12 the price of stock Nissan, that makes it an easy choise. The stiffer spring rate will actually give you a stiffer ride in general (not as compliant). Most people who use the S-A bars are either compensating for a front bumper/winch (200-300 lbs) and or for off roading where you don't want the suspension to compress as much (bottoming out). I have a set I need to install myself. B

^This, but pull your coil wire first, so it doesn't start... B

I'm glad you got it out, and yes, it takes a liittle figuring, but, as you said, "can't really tell when it's all tucked back in!". Good that you found that helpful! His first like made me cringe though... Umm, no it isn't. Not even close... B

WRONG!! Between re-indexing and the adjustment mechanism, the t-bars actually have a tremendous amount of adjustment range. It should be fairly easy to get both sides of the front even and level. Actually, that really should be done before doing anything else to the front end, especially an alignment. Generally, the t-bars only need replacing due to some sort of failure, but if you say yours are settling back down significantly within a year, then perhaps the material is sufficiently fatigued that they do need replacing. I'd price stock against Sway-Away before making any choices. B

Lift up the bottom fold of the boot, hook your finger under the carpet and pull it back. You should be able to see a metal bracket with screws holding the boot in place. Those screws and bracket need to come out to access the shifter hole... I don't recall the exact cuts I made, but I know it was with the 'grain' of the carpet (you can see it by looking at the under side). I want to say the cuts were towards and away from the dash... B

Sorry, I forgot to mention that the idler arm has 2 thin plastic bushings that can be purchased through the dealership for about $5, and it is a 15 minute job to replace them. Otherwise, it sounds like you shouldn't mess with the rest too much yet. Other than the strut rod, tension rod, compression rod bushings (whatever you want to call the damn things)... B