Precise1

Correct. The R51, 2005-2014 IIRC, went back to a frame. I saw one around here that was significantly lifted and towing a large boat, it didn't look 1/2 bad... B

Nicely done, and thanks for the write up! I do question the loss of the volt meter though. Do you plan to mount another one elsewhere? They have given me valuable info over the years, so I think all cars should have one. A volt/amp/max load/rpm gauge wouldn't be hard in new cars these days, but considering that WiFi flat screens are more important than gauges... *points* It broke, you fix! I watch movie! B

I'm a little confused. You say the FSM has been exhausted, but you don't know where the O2 sensors are, much less the 'assumed cats'? Try page FE-10+, it is all pretty clear. Exhaust into manifolds, past primary O2 sensors, into primary cats, through the down pipes, past the secondary O2 sensors, etc. I'm not sure what you have removed at this point... I haven't dealt with those other codes, so I have little input there. B

While multi-posts are frowned upon, I recommend you post this in the Regional Areas section off of the main page, maybe it will get more local attention there. I understand what you need, and hope someone can help you out. Good luck! B

Is that what SoCal calls mud? I agree, the last pict is a good one, and I'd like to have gone and played down there... B

I am certain this has been discussed in another thread as well, I believe our resident Nissan mechanic outlined the troubleshooting and repairs... B

*snort* B

I believe the only difference in interchangeability is the square VS round dash. They should swap fine within both groups, and any wiring connectors should be there already. It seems Nissan pre-wired the trucks for virtually all options... Odds are the differences you see are due to trim level or perhaps a dealer package. Post pictures of what you plan to do, people will be interested. B

Seals... Does it mark it's spot? (drip oil when parked) Generally speaking, the possible sources of an oil leak are the valve cover gaskets, the cam seals (not easily accessible), the front and rear crank seals (not easily accessable), and the oil pan. With the valve covers and oil pan, the first thing is to snug the bolts/screws, but lightly (5lbs?). There is the possibility of it burning oil, but lets start with if it drips, and where... B

You are killing me! You have to print them out on a sheet of mylar... B

Preferably someone with a winch... I hope you get a chance to go out and play, no rain forcasted up here for a while. B

LOL I have a few in each tool box I'll just go ahead and leave this right here... https://www.google.com/search?q=2%22+inspection+mirror&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=bwPwVOrOKsjKoATRgIHgAg&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=1680&bih=911 You probably don't want to see this either then. B

Good call. You have a (some) serious issues to get to that point, and if you aren't sure what to do, taking it to a professional you can trust is the smart thing to do. Don't feel bad, front ends can be rather complex and mystifying at first. Just use this as an opportunity to learn as much as you can. B

Smoke and mirrors, gentlemen, just go easy on the smoke... A 2" mirror on a stick and a small flashlight makes exploratory surgery like this a breeze. B

Bastages! Hopefully it will turn up relatively unharmed like my friends Pathy, they caught the thief driving around not 10 miles away a week later... B

One thing I learned on our 1999.0, the faulty injector Ohm'd in the correct range, but failed once warm and didn't cause issues until being shut off and restarted (while still warm). Just saying incase you don't find a smoking gun right away... I doubt a few Ohms would cause it to 'fail', but I can see how it might cause more/less flow than normal. Unless an injector has completely failed, the plug wire test will still cause a stumble, even a crappy running cylinder is better that a dead one... Manifold leak repair can come in all flavors so don't assume, just find out what you are dealing with first. Yes, the most common flavor is 'suck', but maybe you are lucky. B

Could be, anything else rotational as well... No idea about front/rear, left/right? Might just want to jack it up, support it by the frame and listen. B

Exactly!! Even in AZ (not too far from here), I believe you want a 15 degree inclination to be perpendicular to the light rays, and want to track orientation during the day as well... Point is, there is no plug and play closer to what I pointed out, assuming you need another battery to hold it all (don't bother with a 1 battery system) for the cost you mentioned. Solar has gotten cheap, but not that cheap... I'm considering a couple of these to charge a couple of batteries just for emergencies. Well under $1k and you have a basic system that can be split between home and trail. B

Yeah, there have been a few changes in those past 45 years and 6k miles... Glad you got it out (almost), it'll be easier to put back together (other than the lifting part). When you source a new tranny, try to find one that is of the newer, redesigned type, 2000+ Pathfinders, Frontiers and Xterras with the VG33E IIRC. They are improved and plug and play as well... B

The panels are 3x3, they could easily fit on the roof rack. You'd just have to figure out how to mount them securely... B

The 1999.0 caR50 is actually the wifes, and yeah, it is quite clean! It's our 'luxury SUV' and treated that way, but needs some suspension/bushing work at this point. This is under my 1995 WD21 that has been a driveway queen for years. Hope to get it on the road again soon... Yep! If you take it out, you'll just mess it up. Better it just sit there, safe... B

That's 15 hard California years and almost 180,000 miles of caked on grime! But yes, it almost looks better underneath than above at this point... You'd like my 1995 then, the factory powder coated parts underneath are still black and shiney once they are wiped down. It is all I'm used to... B

Well, you can go pretty cheap like this... http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-68751-8527.html http://www.wholesalesolar.com/products.folder/battery-folder/upg-ub-121100.html or http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/upc-telecom/UB12900-45826.html or http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/upc-telecom/UB12750-45821.html to have a little bit left over for some cables/mounting and making a wooden travel case for the panels (preferably something that doubles as a stand or can be mounted to your roof for shade). B

What? The first link in the FSM thread pinned in the Garage section takes you here http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/Just download the 2000 version... You'll want to start at EC-181 for the P0120 code. Your downstream O2 sensors aren't happy because you have no cats. B

I've put one of these on a 1999.0 and a 2002 with identical/perfect fitment. Unless you find a used one somewhere, it is about as cheap as you can go. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33774-reese-trailer-hitch-is-a-good-deal/?p=634861 U-haul will have something very similar, and for a good price as well, but may include free mounting... B