Precise1

I'm guessing that yes, they must be the same, or close enough to work, since there were no structural or even significant cosmetic changes; both have the same motor, and the spare in the same place. I'd say it is a low risk gamble, but hopefully someone knows for certain. B

You don't have to pass smog tests, do you? Unless something has changed in the last few years, Pacesetter headers aren't CARB aproved, and 2.5" cat is above the 2" maximum diameter for a WD21. B

Code 55 is All Clear, looks like you fixed it! B

Why would you want that? They are a pain to work on! B

It has a primitive one of sorts that controls timing, air/fuel ratio, injectors and a few other components vital to keeping the motor running well. Then you have the AT brain, if you have an AT... They aren't hooked up to any peripheral systems, but you do have circuits controlling parts of your vehicle. Well, maybe not so much if it is a diesel? Bah! I go along with "cars are so needlessly overcomplicated...". Want fuel savings? Have the power steering shut off at speeds above 15mph or whatever is realistic for the vehicle weight and steering geometry. Maybe if it takes more than pinky finger force to steer a vehicle, people won't have a latte in one hand and a cell phone in the other. I'm old enough to remember (and have driven) vehicles without power steering, even full sized 4x4s. They were a biatch to park (very hard to turn the wheel when stationary) but once you got rolling, there was absolutely no difficulty in steering them. I still say there is little reason to have electronics replace hydraulics for braking as well, that makes no sense to me... B

Well, if you change it, you will mix some old with new unless you have a back flush machine. To never change it seems like odd advice to me... A 10x15" cooler will do the trick, but block some of your radiator so mount it offset as much as possible. If you are worried about temps, install a temp gauge; without one it is all just guesswork. B

It's aliens... Thanks for the chuckle! Yes, that is generally the right size and about what fits. The important part is to get a 3/4" thick plate style cooler. 3/4" to fit behind the grill and plate type because they are the most efficient. There is a thread around here that details physical sizes as well as ratings and types. I'd drive the truck as little as possible until you install a cooler, and what does the fluid look like? B

Just thought about this again, and it appears that it has been a year since our loss, his death. For the rest of us, make the most of your time... B

Interesting and simple, I like it! I will be staying with the old hood prop though, gravity is free and hasn't let me down yet... B

Check the ECU for codes, don't look at the dash. It could be the coolant temp sensor, a failed injector(s), the O2 sensor and a few less likely things. Use the diagnostics first... B

I question the no readings and that only 2 injectors were in the proper 10-14 ohm range. Try it again with a different meter. I have a few, not 6. What color code do you have? B

That is quite the euphemism! B

Thanks Red, I knew I was overlooking it... B

Obviously check for rust, but if the vehicle is from the western states, there won't be any, nor will it be an issue going forward. The Pathfinder switched from a VG33 motor to a VQ35 motor for 2001-2004, that is the main difference. Both good motors; the VG33 has a timing belt that should be changed every 105k miles, the VQ35 has a timing chain that will need work when the guides wear (150k-ish?) but has more power and slightly less MPG IIRC. The transmissions are not problematic with regular fluid changes and reasonable driving, but an after market cooler and filter is usually a good idea. We own a 1999.0 and a friend has a 2003, both are great, reliable vehicles. B

Check the EGR tube as well, they can build up and clog as well... B

Hah! Wow... I'm speechless! While the mobile connectivity is big because of the current infatuation with it and the resultant market, I think the real threat is obviously the VSD. They are basically saying that we want to lock you out of it so you have to go to a mechanic (dealership?). Kiss my arse! I will do my best never to own a car that has a computer that can cause the steering or brakes to fail. Talk about pointless complication and lack of redundant systems! As for non-compliant with environmental laws, well, considering all the douche bags that cut their catalytic converters off (because they aren't checked for locally) and all the rolling coal morons, I'd say you know where to start long before you worry about the far more modest modifications. This is a perfect example of corporations getting too big and thinking above themselves. Hey auto makers, sit down, shut up, design and make decent cars and maybe we'll keep you in business and employed. Get how it works now? B

Hello Terry, I'm moving this to the Garage section where it will get a lot more views. I looked through the AT section of the FSM (downloadable for free from the pinned thread in the Garage section) but couldn't find the torque spec. Hopefully someone who has done this will remember or know where to find it. B

^Exactly. Download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, follow the trouble shooting details in the EC section and then replace if necessary before you start digging in. B

Yes, that is a hole diameter of .578" (14.68mm). A M14 helicoil needs a 14.3mm hole, so in order to use one you would have to build up material and redrill like Adam mentioned. http://www.thorintl.com/Drill-Sizes-HeliCoils-Metric.shtml Sorry, I was out of town today and didn't look. Can through bolts be used instead. B

Also, sometimes it just needs to be bled. Simon and I both had ABS lights that were 'fixed' that way. Threads are here somewhere... B

I'm not sure of the size hole required for the timeserts, do you recall? That might limit what your options are and you might have to do what Adam suggested. I'll take a good look tomorrow to see if there is anything else I can come up with. An important question is why you keep stripping the holes out. Could you be losing alignment shims and then it fails from there? If so, going with captive washers would be the way to go. B

How are you getting a reading of 16 volts? There shouldn't be anything with that high of voltage and you should have some voltage drop from the battery to the starter, even with a brand new cable. Either your cable is compromised and not carrying enough current to the starter (or connections are bad), or there might be a relay issue. I don't know the test criteria for them )it might be in the FSM (downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section), so hopefully someone will chime in with that. Also, check your battery ground points at the chassis, frame and engine. Probably not the issue, but easy and smart to rule out. B

Well, depends on how straight the shaft turns to some degree. That is closer than I would like and I suspect that rubber boot is going to burn off as well. I'll look under my hood tomorrow. B

The best way is to find the ground wire and tap into it; easy enough to do... There was a thread very recently that detailed which wire, let me see if I can find it. B Sounds like it is the middle wire. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39879-maf-ground/?hl=%2Bmaf+%2Bground

Better than napalm? And do you mean polyurethane in stead of neoprene? I doubt you are going diving or surfing with the Pathy... B