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Okay guys, been a bit. Looking for some insight, as I am experiencing some perpetual starting issues. Pathfinder will not start unless it has a booster or a set of jumper cables connected. Before you say it…. Brand new battery, brand new cables and connectors, brand new starter and alternator. (Literally, within the last two weeks.) My next course of action is to replace all the wiring that has to do with the starting circuit, as it would appear that something is forming enough resistance that it is hindering the flow to fire the starter… Which leads me to my main question: In the PDF manual (#23 electrical) it refers to the “inhibitor relay” or the “interlock relay” depending on the diagram. Does anyone know what exactly this does and is it vitally necessary? Open to your thoughts.
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Anyone know if there's adjustment for the rear glass latch? mine is currently leaking and its raining almost everyday where i live so id like to somehow seal back up the rear of my pathy
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- rear window
- 1995
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I've looked high and low for information on the bulb underneath the shift letters and I can't seem to find any info on it (because mine is no longer functioning), anyone know what size it might be? I also found the part number that the bulb sits in so I hope that'll help
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hello all my nissan junkies! i am doing a vg34ett swap! if you are not familiar with this build then here it is straight forward, the vg34 is a cross breed between a vh45/vk45 and a vg33. by doing a certain bore you can use the pistons in these vg33s! so, here is the beginning of my thread, i will be doing a full video of the swap on youtube and you can follow me at Super_sketchy_time on youtube for that coming soon. otherwise ill just start here for questions and some answers! i recently picked up a low miles xterra 3.3l vge for free, and i pulled the crank pistons and rods made sure the heads were backed off a hair so i could pull the pistons effortlessly. i pulled these so i could check clearance between the crank and main caps as well as check the cylinder walls for any excessive damage. i then pulled the cams because i will be using some old 80s model z31 cams. next i pulled my donor parts from my q45 engine, after doing so i found that stainless rb26det turbo manifolds can be fitted with some fabrication to a vg engine so i will be taking any questions on that. i decided to go with some of the nissan quest parts for accessories as i do use heavy sound equipment in my vehicles. going for power i am using a nissan quest alternator with quest accessory mounts. i bought some fairly cheap gasket kits to do this swap ad ended up having to buy a few gaskets individually because ebay gaskets can be iffeee sometimes. my 91 came stock with a auto trans wich i will now be replacing with a 5 speed 2003 exterra trans! yes i know 5th has a diffrent gear but i like it better than the original beater 5 speeds! i first had to install the pedal assembly from auto to manual in this process you will need a donor clutch pedal with assembly mount. a manual brake pedal, and donor clutch lines from any d21 or wd21 from 86.5 to 1995. i bought a new master and slave cylinder because my older ones that sat for years waiting for this day had seized up and died lol. for cluth i chose a stage 3 sprung 6 puck disc and stage 3 pressure plate since i am doing a twin turbo swap i felt i need the extra grab and i know ill burn the oem clutch right out! i also decided to use the 80s 2 door pathy/d21 vg30 valve covers so i could rid of those stupid oil travel lines in the front of the engine on top of the timing covers. for turbos i decided to go with 2 garret rb26dett stockies i found rebuilt. and bear wit me here i still have a move happening so itll be a few more weeks till i can hit the machine shop for heads and cylinder wall work. any questions or advice would be greatly appreciated! -Keeyinn89pathfinder
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Hi Everyone, When I bought my 93' pathfinder it came with two keyless entry remotes. I finally got around to seeing if they work. They have new batteries and I programmed both with the electronic module underneath the driver's seat. They both programmed fine, giving me the confirmation beep but when I try to unlock or unlock the car neither work. I'm thinking that is likely an electrical issue from the electronic module to the power locks. The power locks all work when using switch on the door. I couldn't find a wiring diagram that included the electronic module and power lock system for the WD21s. Anybody have any experience with this?
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- powerlocks
- fob
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I was getting my 94 Pathfinder back up and running, replacing belts, etc. The brakes had a leak back when it was running, but I never had time to track it down. The leak was small and would need new fluid added every two weeks or so. So we bleed the brakes and everything works fine. We check all the connections, and hoses and nothing is wet. No wetness around any of the calipers either. Then I notice there is fluid leaking out of a hole on the master cylinder. (Attached photo shows were the hole is). So I go looking for a new master cylinder and notice that around half o f the photos I see have that hole totally covered up. So my question is could a screw have been in that hole and fell out causing this slow leak? Would covering that hole prevent the leak?
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- master cylinder
- brakes
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I found some LED lights that are i believe are plug and play but i’m wondering if i have to buy new housing units or will the stock ones be fine. And also if anyone has a better way or better fitment bulbs please let me know. These are the ones i found https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Headlight-9000Lumens-Extremely-Conversion/dp/B07DGTTTKN/ref=pd_gwm_cr_simh_0?pf_rd_s=grid-2&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pd_rd_wg=veXem&pd_rd_r=049R1C7XBFWZZE3F57EM&pd_rd_w=YzI5W&pf_rd_r=91F9GAQM0Q9PNYK3MMTN&pf_rd_p=8685336c-66e9-4fc3-a54f-476dcb068b08&pd_rd_i=B07DGTTTKN
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just picked this up, hope to get it up to snuff and make sure there is no rust issues. The PO said it was a clean southern truck, and it looks pretty good ( under the mud, VT dirt roads) and Lordwilling enjoy it for many years.
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New on here I'm trying to post a picture of my Pathy. But glad to see the community grow and grow.
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K, so I put a vg33e in my 1993 4x4 auto recently and I've been fine tuning it for about a couple of weeks. A while back I snapped off my last ignition key in the passenger door lock. I managed to get the busted off keyed portion out of the lock cylinder and stuck it in the ignition cylinder, then used a flathead to start it and turn it off. The ignition cylinder started to stick, so when I turned it to the starter trigger mode it wouldn't spring back to run and it kept the starter engaged until I manually turned it back to the run setting. This put a lot of wear on the starter, and I became very worried about the flywheel. I finally put in a new ignition cylinder, but not an oem one that goes on the steering column, but a generic one for lawnmowers and four wheelers, i guess. It took me a while to get the wires right, but I drove the truck around for a week with this setup and it seemed to work fine, except i couldn't get the tranny control module to perform the diagnostic process and that's currently irrelevant. I was driving it yesterday and it started making this loud squeal or screech. I pulled into a gas station and shut it off, then tried to start it again. It made squealed and I think it shuddered while the starter was engaged... It didn't really sound like a belt squeal so I consulted my dad and we decided it was probably the starter gear not retracting and interfering with the flywheel, producing the clacking and the squealing. I went and bought a duralast gold starter, all new components, and put it in. This was a massive pain with the header on, and the new starter had a bracket for the trigger plug that was in the way, but I'm not here to complain about that. It started right up and sounded fine at first, but when I backed up the slight hill and put it in drive it started clacking and squealing again, just like before. Unfortunately I don't remember if it started when I put it in gear, when I gave it some gas, or at another point. It also seemed to have a distinct lack of power, but it had a power loss problem before this which I've been trying to fix. I think it still has exhaust leaks in the new system i installed. The rattling could be caused by the fact that the passenger side header isn't in the Y-pipe flange at all, but held in place by a plumbing band clamp (i know, I know, I'm getting there...). It had a subdued clack before which I attributed to the loose exhaust connection, but it's worse now. Additional information: *once it started making the noise it continued in neutral and park, only stopping when i killed the motor *the ac was off and i wasn't steering the whole time, so i doubt it's the ac or power steering pump belts or pulleys So I need to get some opinions. Do you guys (and/or girls, I'm not picky about advice) think my torque converter is loose from the flywheel? Or the flywheel is loose from the engine? I didn't change the flywheel on the engine i swapped in, it's the original one from the 3.3. I'm almost completely certain that I indexed the torque converter to the transmission correctly, but it did take me a few tries, so maybe I damaged something then? Or is it probably just a squeaky alternator pulley/belt and the exhaust rattling? I didn't check any belts when I was there, i got freaked out and came home to check my favorite forum and have some chocolate coffee beans... I've been driving it for a few weeks since I first started the new 3.3 (not really new, but about 50,000 miles from a Japanese fleet Frontier) and it hasn't made any crazy squealing sound before. It's been shifting fine, though a bit late occasionally and some odd downshifting, but I figured that was because of the pinched vacuum lincoming off the air intake tube and the exhaust leaks. I was under the impression that if I hadn't properly indexed the torque converter and bolted it to the flex plate the tranny would have self destructed when i first started the swapped engine, or first put it in gear. I even pulled a 6000lb Plymouth Trailduster about three miles on hills two weeks ago and it pulled it like a champ. I've been testing it against more and more difficult tasks and it just kept running better and better, and then this happens. I would really appreciate it if anyone had any idea of what's going on with my truck.
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1988 4x4 5 speed with the vg30i. I’m having a small issue with the hose coming off the bottom of my radiator. When the motor is running, the top end of the hose will have a small bit of coolant pushing through the top, even though the hose clamp is as tight as it will ever get. Anyone have any ideas? It’s not a big enough leak to cause overheating issues but I would rather stop it. Thanks.
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Hello everyone, I am new to this site, but I have done plenty of project work on nissans over the years, most notably restoring an e23 urvan and replacing & upgrading the tired z20 engine with a rebuilt Z24, which involved a lot of open heart surgery & plastic surgery. So I am really an expert on restoring, rebuilding & improving nissan bodies, equipment, components & Z24 engines in Queensland, Australia, rather than in pathfinders per se. However, I have turned my attention to refurbishing a 1990 pathfinder DX (a basic pathfinder level with a twin spark Z24S), which I am planning to lightly power up in various ways: I'll post as things progress. I am hoping that I can tap into your collective knowledge in the coming months & years as the project develops, because my knowledge in the specifics of Pathfinders is limited...And nothing beats experience! To kick things off - and noting that different countries called the same model different things and there have been a few posts around the international web converting things between the various generations of pathys - I was wondering if there was a simple bolt on / exchange to convert the existing rear drums to discs? Glad to hear any suggestions and figure out conversions if needed - ije.
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It's there anyway to save the reverse? Ie change fluid, coolers? Or am I stuck with getting new tranny? I just did a vg30e cam swap along with timing pump, knock sensor head gasket. So don't want to get rid of vehicle.
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- transmission
- r50
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Hello everyone, I am new to this site, but I have done plenty of project work on nissans over the years, most notably restoring an e23 urvan and replacing & upgrading the tired z20 engine with a rebuilt Z24, which involved a lot of open heart surgery & plastic surgery. So I am really an expert on restoring, rebuilding & improving nissan bodies, equipment, components & Z24 engines in Queensland, Australia, rather than in pathfinders per se. However, I have turned my attention to refurbishing a 1990 pathfinder DX (a basic pathfinder level with a twin spark Z24S, based on the Nissan Navara utilty truck), which I am planning to lightly power up in various ways: I'll post as things progress. I am hoping that I can tap into your collective knowledge in the coming months & years as the project develops, because my knowledge in the specifics of Pathfinders is limited...And nothing beats experience! To kick things off - and noting that different countries called the same model different things and there have been a few posts around the web converting things between the various generations of pathys - I was wondering if there was a simple bolt on / exchange to convert the existing rear drums to discs? Glad to hear any suggestions and figure out conversions if needed - ije.
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So I have a 1990 Nissan Pathfinder and the motor is knocking horribly after 352 thousand miles. I heard alot about a VG33 swap to make moar power but I'm unsure as what to swap over. I know everything would connect up and I know the cams from the 30 need to go in the 33 for moar lift and moar power. What else do I need to swap over? I do not wanna get it rebuilt or anything as long as the thing runs. I dont got that money. In regards to the engine swap, What do I need to unbolt from the engine/disconnect. Its a manual 4x4. The list is this so far Fuel return and feed line Witing harness Sensors 13 bolts on transmission Drain and disconnect radiator AC I'm getting rid of Engine mounts Exhaust headers Anything else? Or should I go with another 3.0 and turbo it after everything is complete. Im honestly unsure of what to do. I want to keep my Pathy running for as long as possible.
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- engine swap
- wd21
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Hello all, New to this forum and just have a question about radiators. Anybody recommend a specific aftermarket radiator? I have a small crack in my 1994 SE pathfinder and am looking for a fairly high-quality replacement. Something close to OEM would be preferable, but not too terribly expensive. Thanks for any info you guys have.
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Congrats Bobsteriffic! *Send any member of the Mod team two additional pictures and they will be added here.
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Congrats RIPB.88
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Mrelcocko RIPB.88 Citron
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1: Cuong Nguyen 2: Remus92 3: Muddfildvaynes
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READ AND FOLLOW THE RULES! NOMINATIONS AND POSTS NOT CONFORMING TO THE RULES LINED OUT BELOW WILL BE DELETED WITHOUT NOTIFICATION. 1. You can nominate only Pathfinder/Terrano/QX4 trucks belonging to Registered NPORA Forum Members. New members will have to wait 3 months and have a post count of 100 before they can be nominated. Members who are banned, currently on suspension or for 1 month after their return from suspension will also be disallowed. (If you are banned you won't be able to be nominated for 2 months). 1a. Include the name of the NPORA Member who's truck it is that you're nominating (even if it is yours) 2. NO FAKE OR JOKE ENTRIES. 2b. Only original, unaltered photos with out graphics, advertisement or watermarks will be accepted for nomination. Actual permanent stickers are allowable.) 2c. Final acceptance of TofM Nominations pics and winner submissions is at the sole discretion of the NPORA Moderation Team. 3. First 20 nominees are up for consideration and the nomination thread will be closed after the 20th submission or the 20th of the month, which ever comes 1st. Voting will be from 21st-31th. 4. One pic per nomination post, pics must have at least 640x480 of usable image space for use in the in the official boarder in the event that it wins the popular vote. All nominations are subject to the approval of the Mod Team and all decisions are final. Try to make it a good one or nobody will vote for your nominee! A recent pic is preferred but if the Pathy is still in the same shape as your last pic, go ahead and use that. An offroad setting or action pic is also preferred, but not necessary. 5. Only one truck nomination per member per month. 5a. If multiple people want to nominate the same truck, it is up to the nominee to decide on which pic to run with. In the absence of the nominee, the decision will be made by NPORA Moderating Team 6. Winner gets 3 pics of their choice of their Pathfinder pinned in the TOTM forum (PM me the links please) and is ineligible for the remainder of the calendar year. 6a. A Member can only win once a year - multiple pathfinders do no mean multiple wins. 7. No post whoring. 8. Not reading these rules may result in a zombie attack. This nomination thread is open through December 20 or until 20 submissions are reached (whichever comes first)
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Congrats maaakaaa Please send two more pictures to any member of the Mod Team and they will be added here
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