Precise1

5&7/8 pints, so 3 quarts, but I want you to do something as well. Go to the pinned FSM thread in the Garage section, follow the links and download your own free copy of the 1994 year (the earliest one) and look in the MA file. The vast majority of the info is the same as the 1990 model barring dash, exterior trim, timing belt intervals and tie rod end sizes. 95% of it applies to you and is your new bible... B

Try contacting the manufacturer, stating the capacity of the diff and asking the proper amount to add, point out the vague directions if necessary. Most companies want you to use their products 'correctly' so you'll get good results and keep using them. B

Some people have used LSD additives with regular oil, but I thought they were usually used in some sort of ratio to the amount of oil being replaced. I don't know this product so can't say anything about it, but ultimately, just follow the directions? It is for LSD rear ends? B

Wouldn't the OD=ID(CTx2) since there is a coil on either side? 6.024"... Usually I would agree, but considering the IDs are .25" different, the ODs are .5" different and they still fit without issue, I'd say a tape measure and a good eye is sufficient for the tolerances. B

Hard to answer that, you know better than I, but I will say that $3k for a running, 12 year old SUV in decent shape is not a bad price in most books. If you can expect to put a little into it (hopefully doing the work yourself), I think it should work out. Check the rust a little better, especially around the strut towers, there was a recall about that? (check the Garage/TSP-Recall section) Bring along a little hammer and tap around, you'll be able to tell the sound of solid metal VS mush or the hammer making dents/holes. B

Assuming it is in excellent condition, that would be about $4,500-6,500USD here, depending on options and maintenance. B

Good, sounds like you are on track then... B

I prefer a 5 speed for everything other than traffic, they seem to have a little more power, better gas mileage and of course, control. (plus are cheaper to maintain/repair) x2 on the shocks, the lengths/specs are identical between the two. I had the ES3000 on my first WD21 and liked them as well. B

It seizing or it falling off are about equally bad, just in opposite directions from center goodness. If you have not done so, go to the Garage section and download a FSM from the pinned thread, it is the best source of info, diagrams and exploded views. IIRC, there is the bracket that holds it all to the motor, a nut and lock washer on the back to hold it in place, a puller that has the bearing inside that rides on a carrier which has a threaded stud on the back to go through back of the bracket for said nut, and a long adjusting bolt that goes vertically from the top of the bracket through a threaded hole in the carrier. To adjust it, you would loosen the nut in back, turn the top both to adjust the tension, then lock the rear nut to hold it. B

As long as it evaporates quickly without leaving a mess, easy to test... WD-40 works (its residue is harmless and you want mist anyway), people have used carb cleaner and starting fluid as well. You just want a mist with a flash point that doesn't leave goo or anything that might affect rubber components over long term. You might want to check the output of the O2 sensors and coolant sensor as well, the volt and ohm values and procedures are in the FSM. B

The stock manifolds are fairly restrictive so to do all that performance work and put on the stock exhaust would be a bit . You obviously aren't concerned about passing smog tests, so either header would work. Thorley are by far higher quality, but cost more accordingly. If you go with the PaceMakers, get the ceramic coated ones, unless you like rust and the small of burning paint. B

No reason why it wouldn't work. Your own imagination and skills will get it done... B

FYI: 1/2"=12.7mm, so a 13mm wrench will work on 1/2" most fasteners, and conversely, a 1/2"wrench will fit tightly on some 13mm fasteners. Honestly, I keep 10,12,13,14,15,17,19mm wrenches and sockets with me. They really don't weigh too much/take up too much room to bring the full set. Tools are one thing I generally don't travel light on if I am on a trip. Along your thought train though, a set of hex wrenches is always recommended as well, but I believe it can be reduced down to 3,4,5,6mm. B

Don't assume that, test the lines by spraying a flammable aerosol and moving the lines while it is running. If the RPM increases, you have discovered a leak... 120k miles isn't even considered 1/2 life span for these motors under normal circumstances, so you shouldn't have a noticeable drop in power due to that. Something else is going on... B

Mainly the condition of the arc points. Hmm, that is all the usual suspects, but maybe a vacuum line? I'm guessing at this point. Have you tried looking at the diagnostics in the FSM EC section? They often recommend some component test that isn't exactly obvious... B

The ground is through the harness IIRC, and can be a problem. There is an item you can buy from Nissan that couples into the connector and supplies a ground line, but I'm not certain that is your problem. Check your dizzy cap for cracks, moisture (a shot of WD40 will clear it) and all the parts being there. My manual WD21 stumbled a bit at low rpm when there was no center electrode in the cap and sparks were just arcing down to the rotor. Driving, warming things up might evaporate moisture while it sits for the ride home The power steering pump and alternator are both tensioned by pivoting off of the main mounting bolt. The PS has a tensioning screw IIRC, and the alternator just has a clamp-in-place bolt so you'll have to use leverage. B

Cap & rotor should still be fine, but easy enough to check. Timing? Injector cleaner? Intake/valve cleaner? How many miles on it? B

A wedge between the airbox and and the MAF would work just fine (you'd want it the same size hole lined up, obviously), but there is another, easier trick.On the MAF side of the airbox there are 1 or two brackets towards the bottom that support the air box. Remove them and allow the air box to droop down. It will remove most of the strain on the hose and make the connecting angle much more reasonable. You can always reattach the bracket(s?) in the new position with self tapping sheet metal screws, I think I just removed mine. Regardless, is a basically an adequate, free 15 minute fix. B

Inline fuel filter would be my first item to check/replace, especially with no codes. It is above the rear diff... Don't get lost between the chevy and a (newer?) Nissan. They have extra items, but all basic principles are the same. I highly recommend you go to the pinned thread in the Garage section and download a free copy of your year's FSM. It will clear up a lot of questions you have, helping you to transition, but it also has a good diagnostic section for all sorts of symptoms/failures (EC section IIRC). This is where I would check if my vehicle was doing this. Welcome to NPORA BTW. B

Fixed it for you. Nah, a little bit of razzing at worst, the pain should only last a minute. Seriously though, that placement is far better than the WD21 VG30, it is directly over the starter and at a 30 degree angle; absolutely impossible to remove without spilling oil. The only pain is to remove the 'skid plate' all the time. IIRC, my wife's Toyota Matrix has a vertical filter up front as well, so others like it do exist. B

That's the oil filter, might want to consider changing it some day... What year is your Pathfinder, your description says 1987? B

It very well might... http://engine-codes.com/p1110_nissan.html http://engine-codes.com/p1135_nissan.html Odd, it didn't list the codes in the 2002 FSM, I had to resort to Google. B

Hey, to each their own, but it's not how I would do it is all. On the previous WD21 model the tire carrier is quite 'overbuilt' and people regularly hang 33" tires (with steel wheels) off of them, along with gas cans, high lift jacks, etc without issue. They have even kept the vehicles from sustaining damage when hit from behind... I have never had the opportunity to inspect a R50 tire carrier, but if they are anything like the previous generations, just putting a larger tire on it is not an issue. Not trying to talk you out of it, just saying. You can set up a poll thread about the size tire people have on their R50 carriers and ask them to describe any issues. Might want to post it in the R50 section though, and perhaps I should move this thread there as well? B

A little bit of info with some links: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36195-anyone-heard-of-dip-your-car/?hl=plastidip&do=findComment&comment=678619 You have an R50 with an external mount, and you want to put the tire on the roof? Most people use aftermarket baskets, but in this case I would probably put the tire on the roof between the rails and cross bars (snug it in) and tie it down. There are some raised strips you can put on the roof to protect it somewhat, but a tire shouldn't damage it. By all means, save $ when you can... B

Could be the second gear synchro, and it could be the socket the shifter ball sits in (plastic IIRC). If it is worn or damaged, it might not be aligning properly or allowing the proper throw for that gear. I know there is a thread about it here, and downloading the FSM from the thread in the Garage section will provide an expanded view (1994 should work as an example). The last one can be checked, the first one you live with until the tranny is replaced or rebuilt. B