Precise1

Personally, I don't ever open our sunroof, and only look out of it if I have a load on the roof rack. I see no harm in raising it enough to allow you to use it though. Just your call, really... Looks good to me! You might want to check out the plasti-dip stuff, it seems to work really well. I'm hoping to sandblast mine before I mount it. Yes please on the write up, I'm sure quite a few people will interested. Well, a plug or cap would be ideal, but might be a pain to find/make and it might limit how you cut the end. Hard curing expanding foam would seal it off nicely and be paintable as well, no matter how you cut the tube. Just a thought... B

Too long. The front mount hangs over off of the front curve by 3-4" B

Got it, I didn't realize that you had a roof rack already and that the basket was the point. So, straddling the gutter (damn, bigger than I thought) lets the front sit level and retains the basket... Are the cross members long enough to permit this? AhardB has it right about having to install a threaded insert, but I kind of don't like having just one screw/nut holding on the rear mount, especially with the middle one removed. I think that would reduce the capacity considerably. Two other possibilities is to scare up two more middle feet so you can have them in the middle and in the rear (much stronger) or to cut the tube, and rejoin it shorter. For that you would need a welder, or at least a lathe to make a nice snug coupler (I'm thinking interior coupler with through bolts to secure it. This is definitely doable! One other thought is to measure everything out and notch the old roof rack tracks where the new feet would sit, then reinstall it just to fill things back in and give it a more finished look. B

Ok, I took a look but since I already have a roof rack, I couldn't position it freely. This is it just inboard of the rain gutter and lined up flush with the back. This is the farthest back the front mount can go before it interferes with the sunroof, about 1" overhang with the rear mount. Two ways I can see to do this is to shorten it about 1-2" by trimming down the front tube, making a plastic riser for the middle legs and a wedge for the front. It wouldn't be much, maybe 1/2" thick. The other way I couldn't test is what if you just straddled the rain gutter? If you shortened the rack (maybe 4" estimate, via trimming the front legs) enough for the middle feet to touch the roof, you would be outboard of the sunroof and be able to move it back enough that the front foot sits flat without the rear hanging over the edge. If you are mounting from the top using rivnuts or jacknuts or whatever, it shouldn't make a difference. Can you position yours outboard of the sunroof and back like that and take a picture? B

Exactly, you'll never get all of the old stuff out unless you take the tranny out and give it a good inversion and shaking. Just drain and fill, that will work fine. Stabworthy makes a good point as well, there is a TSB about 'overfilling' the tranny to avoid possible bearing starvation, the recommended amount is 5.1 liters (5 quarts should be fine). The TSB thread is in the Garage/TSB section and describes how to fill the tranny via the shifter hole. B

I'm sorry, I didn't see that this was for a R50 before I posted. There aren't any threads that I know of, I think you might be the first to put one on an R50. *s I'll take a look tomorrow at our R50 and the Xterra rack. B

^X2 GL-4 is soft metal/yellow metal safe (brass, bronze, etc). GL-5 is a self inflicted repair bill. Redline is worth the cost from everything I have heard as well. B

Odds are you are ok, but don't 'goop' in the future, more isn't always better. (but I think you know that now) Also, torque to spec, not just "tight", especially on sealing surfaces. (but I think you know that now) When you do a new procedure, try to make sure you are familiar with the entire process start to finish, lest you miss a critical part, tool or sequence. You are doing fine though, so don't lose confidence either... My vote is that you let it sit until tomorrow morning, fill it up, burp it and run it. Obviously let it get full hot, drive it, etc and check for leaks. In the slim case there is an issue, you'll have time to address it as well. B May I ask the last time the timing belt has been changed?

I was waiting for you to do so... B

B

No, because it is the front legs that are too long due to the Xterra's stepped roof. The only way to shorten the rack would be to cut a section out of the tube and reattach the two ends. There was someone who reversed the sides of the middle mounts (switched the bars?), to clear their sunroof IIRC. Most people ditch the basket due to fitment and wind noise. There are some good threads that already document all of this quite well, try the advanced search function. B

You are welcome, and certainly not the first or last female to join. Agreed, most 'common' topics already exist, along with some obscure ones as well. Glad you are finding what you need! B

1) X2 on strut towers and general underneath inspection 2) They have basically the same maintenance requirements/schedule as a 1994-95 WD21, 160,000 kilometer timing belt intervals, etc. 3) I'll check when I go outside, but the R50 tows/carries about the same amount as a WD21 (we have both). The stiffness of the springs of each individual vehicle probably makes more of a difference than any rating difference. B

So it is an EZ Out with a hex head? They work well, but I have had bad luck with the small ones breaking. For small diameter extractions, I prefer the straight flute variety. Yep, always file or grind the stud face flat if possible, center punch or grind a dimple in the center to start with, start the hole with a center drill and then switch to the drill. Pre-soak the stud, use cutting fluid and left handed drills, I've had screws loosen and screw out that way. Make sure you are drilling straight, and don't rush... I prefer to use T handles to hold my extractors, I have a better feel that way. As has been mentioned, do not break the extractor off in the stud! That makes things a bit more difficult... B

Too true, unfortunately... B

I'm sorry I didn't warn you about that, I figured you had the lines plugged or in a bucket or whatever. Yeah, the water pump will push the coolant and the tranny lines have good pressure too. You'll have to check that ATF level before you do any driving... Still, if it is all working right now and the worst you have to do clean up the floor, well, still a win? B

Yes, it can run briefly for testing without doing any harm. Find anything? B

No, bad idea even if they can be made to physically fit, which I doubt. The stock pathfinders that had 235/75/15 tires used 5.5 or 6" rims, and 31x10.5" tires were on 7" rims. B For example: http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires_101/customizing/rim_wheel_width/

Yep, it does! LOL, the free lights don't hurt! I also bought a used ARB, but not nearly as cheap as you did. It came with 2 Hella fog lights and a frozen winch. I fitted some 4" Hella Optilux HIDs as well, wired through relays. Those things throw out some serious light and only 35watts draw. B

You need to find TDC, so pull spark plug #1, turn the crank until the piston is at the top of rise with the dizzy rotor facing the #1 post (or close to, not 180* off). Now check the cam/crank positions/count the teeth (40/43), hopefully you will see what is off. Release tensioner, slip the belt off, realign belt marks to the pulley marks, slip the belt back on and re-tension. That really should do it for you. As for the dying and not starting, I really suspect something else is going on. Check to see all plugs and wires are in proper order/hooked up, check all connectors around where you have been working, and don't get frustrated. Sometimes the sensor wiring can have issues; I had a friends truck die without warning and not start because we had wiggled the coolant temp sensor for the ECU and interrupted/corrupted the signal somehow. We disassembled the harness connector, cleaned and re-assembled it, and no issues for 1.5 years now. Just take a good look around and don't assume it is something major yet. Umm, you should not have rotated the passenger cam a few revolutions (on it's own), much less been able to. At some point the valves should have interfered with the pistons, but maybe you got lucky or they rotated the crank slightly for clearance? It is hard to tell from the picture, but the passenger cam face is sticking out much farther, by a couple of inches? You might have a larger issue, either a broken cam, or one of the keepers has failed. Try putting the pulley on just snug, then rotating it just a bit back and forth while pushing in to see if it moves back (this shouldn't be possible). At this point, you may want to pull that valve cover so you can see what is going on. B

It's a minivan now. B

Glad you found it so easily. Be interesting to see what you get now... What? That's like $10USD... Seriously though, only $61USD or $3/gal? That's cheap! B

This. The winch mount orientation is foot forward, which is the best way from my understanding, B

Should have just raised the truck... JK! Everyone has their own plan, it is all good. B

Just pull the wire from the center of the distributor cap, and the coil is disconnected (there is only one). The other option is not to turn the crank with the ignition on, but always better save than sorry with something so simple. B