Precise1

Wow, that movie looks horribly immature and unrealistic. I'm going to enjoy it! Sorry to hear about the Pathy, but you can get another one, eventually. They run a long time so some will be around for years... And as for your loss, well, that is a fair memorial. Was it not running at that point? B

It does actually make some difference with the atomization, and perhaps the speed of the injection? This might change the desired timing slightly, improve mileage, help with smog, etc. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if there was one or two injectors specifically used only in Ca or any other heavily smog tested area... Point is, you don't want one cylinder running at a different condition, if that would be the case, but I doubt it would be a show stopper either. You are somewhat nearby, check out NOW... Looks like their site has been hacked, so here... http://www.yelp.com/biz/now-nissan-only-wreckers-rancho-cordova B

Hey Bud, I had been wondering about you and Danger Cat (in that order). Post us a few more pictures of him, please... So, getting right to the chase, X or R50... I don't know the Xs. I hear good things about them so I doubt you'd regret getting one. R50s I do know a bit about, but more the early VG ones than the later VQ ones. Both are great vehicles, and we are considering swapping out our 1999.0 for a 2003-2004, mainly to get a 'fresher' one with lower miles and the more powerful motor. The R50s ride real nice, are comfortable and reasonably well appointed. Stock or decent suspension/tires they also handle surprisingly well for what they are. Put manual front hubs on and (with the VG motor) 20mpg was consistently attainable on the highway; might be a little less with the VQ. The R50s are fairly easy to upgrade, from simple spacers to SFDs and have a proven track record, but the X has more aftermarket support. The X doesn't have NPORA though... Ok, let's hear from others... PM Simon. Between he and Pezzy, they have been through 3 WD21s, 2 R50s, 1 X and small child named Oliver... (sing it) B

Here is the best help I can give, a link to Factory Service Manuals. I don't know what year has the 4x4 knob information (I'm guessing that is what you have) because model years have variation and we don't have a lot of African members, so you may have to download a few before you see the system you have. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/ B

Glad to hear, Bud! hawarish (pretty sure that is how it is spelled) just rebuilt his LSD rear and posted a lot of good info that should help... hawairish B Sorry Bud, but I almost got the name right.

/\ I do agree with this. Even if the bags are designed to work by conforming to the inside of the coils (the ones I installed were a fairly tight fit so it makes sense), you still don't want to give them a lot of room to slip, just in case. Especially if you run low pressure... My friend runs virtually no pressure normally, and only adds about 10lbs when he has his 250lb dirt bike cantilevered about 2' past the hitch receiver, and that is more than enough. How much room between perches without the bump stops? That is what I would work off of, and just make a plastic insert with the proper diameter to leave 1/2" clearance for inflation, settling, etc. Just need to drill, counter bore enough for a socket head cap screw/washer to mount them, and you are golden. It'll work perfectly for road/carrying/towing, but you'd need to vent them to get articulation. Can't have everything... B

Exactly, they do sag eventually, just like a coil spring gets softer/shorter, but the key difference is that torsion bars are a twist spring so you can just torque them a little more to bring it back. There is a limit, of course, but very few people have gotten there. Why replace something that doesn't need to be? B BTW, it is spelled 'thanks'. Just 1 more letter...

It was yesterday, but put a few gallons of fresh gas in, fired it up and annoyed some neighbors for a bit... B

Lookin' Good!! You want CAI? Throw on a snorkel... Want a motor upgrade? Toss in a set of VG30 cams! (NA version, Euro grind or even Nismo #1, JWT Stage 1 or 256-H grind from Schneider though the last 3 might mess with smog tests some) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25219-jim-wolf-technology/ B

Well, it is where the clutch master cylinder would bolt, but otherwise, yes... Only problem is that it is cross corner from the battery so if you are using expensive, heavy gauge wire, it isn't the best routing. B

I'm on my second 1995 WD21, we have a 1999.0 R50, a friend bought a 2002 R50 (second year of the VQ motor, virtually identical to the 2004) on my recommendation and loves it, and we are considering selling our 1999.0 R50 and buying a 2003 or 2004 R50. Great vehicles; if that is the type of thing you are looking for, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them or own one myself. It only comes down to specific vehicle factors, like how many miles, is there any rust, did the PO maintain it, any big repairs needed, etc. B

Nice work Bud! Be careful with the back though and don't mask the pain too much; you still gotta know when to ease up... B

Well, then there is that method as well; don't really do anything about it! Like you said, it isn't really critical, the truck runs fine, and if you ever decide you need to 'fix' it (or next time the timing belt is changed), you know exactly what to do and which way to rotate it. "If it ain't broke..." goes a long way in my world. B

I would start by asking why you feel the need to replace them. Generally people install Sway Away because either they have added significant weight to the front (aftermarket bumper/winch/etc) or they want a firmer ride (unusual). About the only time the stock bars are replaced with stock bars is if one has been damaged. 90% of the time, people reindex the old, stock bars (if necessary) and crank them to the desired height, which also stiffens the ride a bit as well (more pre-load). So, I recommend you go to the Garage/How To section and read the thread on reindexing the torsion bars, and then ask more questions or decide upon your course of action. B

As the Slarted one said, it is about spray pattern, not flow rate. That said, I had been told by someone that the black ones are 'universal' and will work with most any other color, but I have no way of confirming this. That would be an Alkorahil question, perhaps shoot him a PM? I have a few injectors left, blue I believe, and I haven't even checked to see what my current WD21 has, so I might not even have any use for them. B

What trim is yours? Our 1999.0 SE has independent switches for each seat with high and low settings. I don't even know if they can be set to turn on automatically as I just operate them manually. B

You are welcome. The fact that there is a chalk mark makes it really easy to identify, but being me, I'd still confirm... Meh, you can't do everything yourself. IIRC, you are a contractor, you do mechanics, ride motorcycles, take care of your house and pets, etc. Not enough hours in life to do everything, all the time. Like I said, I get it. Spoken like a mechanic... Yep, that would work too! My method is the shade tree mechanic/attempted 'fool proof' method. I generally take this route, because I have been the fool before... B

So, what I am trying to address here is only the 'cylinders filling up with fuel' issue, not any cranking or starting issues. If they still exist, they are almost certainly a separate issue. UNLESS the car won't crank because of the fluid in the cylinders. Just like water (called hydrolocking), the liquid will not compress to the normal 9:1 ratio on the engine compression stroke, and will physically keep the motor from cycling under the power of the starter. I have to warn you, internal damage can occur under these conditions, so avoid cranking the motor in this condition without removing ALL the spark plugs so the liquid can be expelled. If the liquid is gas, MAKE SURE that spark plug wires, etc are not in a position/condition to produce a spark! Best bet is to completely remove the connectors to the coil which is on the passenger side of the intake plenum on top of the motor. Always wear safety glasses and have a charged, properly rated fire extinguisher a hand! The question about the gas was unclear, sorry for that. First, 91 octane does not benefit the VG30 what so ever. Higher octane is to reduce 'pinging' (predetonation) in cylinders under high timing advancement, meaning high RPM, compression and or turbo motors. Just fill the Pathy up with regular 87 octane or what ever is the base gas available there. What I should have asked is "is the gas there mixed with ethanol, and how much/what percentage?'. Point is, ethanol mixed gas goes bad. I believe the ethanol absorbs moisture from the air, then separates from the gas and can eventually reach a point where it can jell as well. This shouldn't happen in a few months, but it is common procedure to use products like Heet and Sta-bil for gas fueled things that may sit a while (lawn mowers, snow mobiles, boats, etc), and cars really are no different. I don't have a lot of experience with such products, so I'll let other cover them from here. I'm not sure what the benefit of upgrading to VG33 injectors would be with a stock VG30, as the VG30 injectors are perfectly adequate for the motor, and IIRC, the flow rate is the same for both. (The VG33 is really only a VG30 bored 10% over, but with less aggressive cams so it shouldn't really matter). That said, I'm not sure if the injectors are the same physical size (either type fits into the same fuel rail) or if the fuel rail has to be swapped out as well. I have both, spare fuel rails and injectors for both VG30 and VG33 in the garage, but I won't have time to go and measure them until Monday or Tuesday. I will do so if you need me to/can't get the info elsewhere (online specs, etc). Whenever you remove/install injectors, replace the O rings, and make sure to 'lube' them with gas just prior to installation. Only exception to this is if you have just installled/messed with the injector, and even then closely inspect the o rings for damage, flat spots, etc. IIRC it is only about $5 per injector for the two O rings, so it isn't worth skimping. I do not know what the part numbers are off hand, but Rock Auto is a good reference, even if you don't buy from there, and you should be able to cross reference VG30 and VG33 injector O ring part numbers to see if they are the same... Ok, so, I'd pull the 3 injectors (from the passenger side as they are accessible without removing anything else) and check the O rings for damage, replace the O rings, reinstall, remove the spark plugs, cycle the motor to make sure it is cleared properly, clean the spark plugs with carb spray/electrical cleaner (just dry them), reinstall the spark plugs, fire it up and let it run to see what it does. If it starts to choke out, shut it off, pull the passenger side spark plugs (cylinders 1,3,5 FYI, front to rear) and see if they are fouled/wet, then cycle the motor with the coil disconnected to see of gas comes out of those cylinder holes. If the plugs are wet/gas comes out, it isn't the injector seals. It could be the pressure regulator has failed and is creating too much pressure, or the temp sensor could have failed and is giving the ECU such bad info that it is flooding the engine through the injectors. Sorry, but I'm thinking as I type... Do you have a multimeter? Can you check the resistance of the ecu temp sensor? This would be the first thing to do; several people have had this issue, Kingman as one IIRC. The ecu temp sensor is the rear of the two sensors, on the drivers side of the aluminum housing that the top radiator hose connects to on the motor. It is a thermistor who's resistance decreases as the coolant temp rises. Resistance should be: 2.1-2.9 K ohms @ 70 degrees .68-10. K ohms @ 122 degrees .3-.33 K ohms @ 176 degrees I am going to stop here and mention a few things things... The FSM is available for free download from the link in the pinned thread in the Garage section, and section EC is where I'm getting this reference/testing information. 1994 is the earliest year available, but most all of that pertains to your vehicle other than some body, dash and trim items. I didn't see a particular trouble shooting description for flooding, but it might fall under 'hard to start' or other such conditions. You'll have to read through it and ask questions as needed. Have you checked the ECU for stored fault codes? If not, please do so. Do you feel up to this? This isn't necessarily a straight forward/easy fix, and if I'm already confusing you, you might want to take to to a qualified mechanic. That said, I (and others) are willing to help walk you through this as best we can remotely. You stand to save a bit of $ if you do it yourself, but time, tools, place to work on it and how fast you need it are part of the equation as well. No shame to say that you aren't up to the task for what ever reason... B

More $ than sense, eh? Just ribbing you, I work exactly the same way. I prefer to do my own work, but sometimes the laws of supply and demand dictate events... I'm certain that Kingman is correct. 6 bolts=60 degree increments of possible assembly. Timing is 15 degrees BTC, and the mechanic claims 45 degrees off; you are 1 bolt clocking rotation out of position. FYI, it was completely unnecessary and undesirable to separate the two, so that mechanic isn't the best... If the balancer moved like that, it most likely would have come apart, and be gentle when you work on it. Some are getting fragile with age by now. The way I would make sure which way to go (rather than figure out direction of spin, etc) is just make marks on the pulley with chalk or paint pen, 60 degrees from the timing marks (close enough, you'll see it). Either use different colors or a I and II marking. Fire it up and look at it with your timing light, determine which mark you see, then unbolt the balancer and rotate the pulley 1 bolt clocking towards the mark you identified. Technically unnecessary if you want to do it in your head, but also fool proof that you don't have an 'oops' moment and have to do it twice... B

Honestly, no. No swappable parts without fab work, and that pretty much means they aren't swappable, right? Good luck with the project, and check out Rugged Rocks to see if there are any pre-runner options. Steevo converted his '91 from 2wd to 4wd SAS awesome, so he understands it as well as anyone... B

That is nice, thanks for the link! I'm going to order a roll; I can think of a lot of uses! (still like my battery ones as well though...) No, Bud, it'll never end. At least not as long as you drive and/or wheel it. But realistically, this is the same with most vehicles, some worse than others. In 30 years, I've never had a car or motorcycle that didn't break... B Wait! Sorry, I've had a Honda CBR1100XX and a BMW K75 that never broke or let me down, unless I ran them into things, and you can't really blame the bike for that, no?

Yes, I think you are on the right track. Being parked nose down shouldn't really affect anything normally, because the fuel system usually operates at 40ish LBS of pressure (going from memory so I could be off a bit), and that shouldn't be achievable without the fuel pump running. Also, it shouldn't leak into all cylinders if one injector is faulty, and I don't think the ECU can keep the injectors open without the system being under power. Seeing how you don't drive it a lot, what gas do you use? Do you add treatment for the storage? Reason I ask, is I wonder if the O rings that seal the injectors in the fuel rails (one on each side) have been compromised and are allowing gas to blow by when the system is under pressure. Additives might cause that if they are left to sit, or they might just be old. Someone would have to pull a few of them to check (passenger side is accessible) and replace them with new O rings regardless. Obviously pure speculation, but the first thing I can think of when you say the cylinders fill up with gas. BTW, don't drive with that engine oil, it is compromised. Obviously, fix the issue first, but then change out the oil/filter before you drive it or you risk abnormal engine wear. B

Cool, I'm glad you got some results that you are happy with. Personally, I would have gone with the 300lb version, but that is all that I am used to on both my 1995s (the 1999.0 is open diff). It only was an issue a few times until I learned not to accelerate hard while turning in the rain in first and second gear, unless you like getting dizzy... Well, it is going to be a great upgrade for others, especially since you did all the work! As I said before, good job and thanks for documenting it. (you really should be using mics though, not calipers; I doubt they have good resolution if you can set the display to .1mm) B

Check the connectors again, maybe using a little dielectric grease. Then clear the codes, and see if it comes up again. If it does, clear the codes and run it while wiggling the harness to see if there are any changes. A copy of the FSM is available through the link in a thread pinned in the Garage section, and it will have diagnostic info on these items. Considering the PITA locations of the sensors, verify that they are bad first. Even if you don't change them, you might keep a shop from chasing the wrong thing and costing you more $. B

That should work fine, but do this for peace of mind. Get some chalk, mark well across the tire and drive it in a straight line for a hundred (or more) yards. If it wears off at the edges, you are under inflated, in the middle is over inflated, even wear means you are in the correct zone and after that it is just ride and cornering preference as there will be an acceptable range. I usually run 28-30lbs and get a decent balance of wear and ride. Remember that tires heat up when driving, especially with high ambient temps; it is 90 degrees out now and the concrete is uncomfortable to stand on barefoot. The tires have to deal with this increase as well... B