Precise1

Xterra, your old in-dash meter is off, reading high. I wonder if there is a pot on back to adjust/calibrate it? Your multimeter and new gauge are accurate. Not only do they both show the same readings, those readings are in the appropriate range for a properly functioning battery/charging system, the in-dash is not. I would connect the new gauge at the battery, because this is where you will get the the most accurate and important data. Patching in downstream from the battery could be affected by various connections, resistance of the wires, and various draws. You really do want at the battery info... B

Have you talked to Rob Lacy (Alkorahil) about getting the parts? This sounds right up his alley... Well, there it is, photographed and documented... The best and easiest way, I would say, but not the only! It could be done with a magnetic or vacuum fixture on a mill, or with a magnetic or vacuum face plate on a lathe, utilizing a tool post grinder or even just facing it with single point turning. It's all in the set up and method... B

Well, good thing I did finally remember to look, there is a tiny bit of surface rust starting. It'll be fine once I brush and oil things... Measurements: Initial caliper based readings, I can take more specific measurements if needed. OD: 100.95mm, 3.974" ID: 72.1mm, 2.838" Grooves: 4.5mm, .177" Teeth: 13.9mm, .547" wide outside, 10mm, .393" inside, measured at the base 2mm, .079" deep Gonna have to get back to you about the radii on the back, the face angle and the OD bevel. B

Is that when the motor is hot/has been running? Can you see flow in the radiator once the thermostat opens? (never just open a hot, pressurized system) Do you have quality antifreeze/water mix, and how old is it? Have you tried burping the cooling system (as per the downloadable manual from the pinned thread in the Garage section)? When does it over heat? Idling, stop and go traffic, low speed driving, highway driving? B

Ok, it still sounds like it would be good to understand the problem though, if not to fix it, then to keep it from getting worse? How many miles was that? So, I'm assuming it isn't in bad shape. Can you tell if there is flow through the cooler? (lines should be warm after moderate use) B

Can you post a picture of what you can't figure out? Hopefully there was no shorting of voltage... B

This happened to me, but in a Toyota, not a Nissan. The key was stuck in the ignition... It still worked fine, started the car, etc, you just couldn't remove the key. Ended up replacing the entire unit after a locksmith couldn't get it to work correctly. B

Crap! I dropped the ball on this. Sorry, there were some problems I had to deal with last week... I'll post pictures and basic info tomorrow. B

Sorry, I don't know the JDM specs or where to get them. Considering the model though, I'd be surprised to find a significant difference, but it is definitely worth matching some numbers up. I'll do a little digging tomorrow to see what I can find. B

When was the last time the ATF was changed? Does it seem to run hot? As the others have said, it is probably damaged and needs replacing but you still need to understand the failure mechanism. B

Everyone knows the 4 door is better than the 2 door. Seriously though, the last 4 posts are about Pathys that have driven to the moon, with a few more starts, stops and obstacles... and still running fine. Of course, I've seen a Honda do the same... B

Glad you got lucky Bud, you are in that 10% (guesstimation)! Like Red said, that is something we stress as much as possible, for good reason. As far as I'm concerned, these are the top 5 things that put Pathfinders in a junkyard. 1) Accident 2) Transmission failure 3) Timing belt failure 4) Rust 5) Neglected/Worn Out 2,3 &4 are generally preventable so that is what we focus on. It is sad to see an otherwise good vehicle scrapped for something that is avoidable. Out of curiosity, would you have had the Pathy fixed if the motor needed to be replaced? B

Red has great personal experience and I'm just going on principle; I'm pretty sure the more aggressive cams function more on a timing/duration level than absolute throw, at least in this relatively mild scenario. I'd check the specs of both stock cams to see which stand taller. MY1PATH has good info here from when he was experimenting with cam grinds, so that would be a must read... From what I know, the VG33 has a stronger crank/snout and a timing belt interval of 105k so you shouldn't normally have timing issues. If you do, just count yourself screwed and don't hope for luck. I'd put the VG30 cams in from the get go. You aren't going to make it a drag champ, you are just going to actually use some of the motor potential. You won't be loping at intersections (but that would be hilarious!) Not you! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXGu1agB63o If you don't want to do that right away, no worries, they can be installed fairly easily with the motor in place. BUT, if it is already out, stripped and open (timing belt work), it would be really easy. My ideal motor replacement is a VG33 block with vg30 cams, all the VG30 stuff on it, into Thorley headers on out (intake to match of course). I believe the VG30 cams will give you a little better low end as well... Good luck no matter what you decide! B

It could definitely be a CV issue since you have drive flanges (CVs are always turning when the wheels are). Were there any symptoms/noises before this happened? I'd jack up that corner and spin the wheel by hand to hear/feel/look what it is doing. B

Things happen for a reason. What reason? No one knows, but that doesn't matter right now! Unfortunately VG30 snout issues are not unheard of, but I don't recall one snapping off. Recently, at least... Sorry she broke her heart, but as you say, you are just putting a stronger one back in. Don't forget to install the VG30 cams... B

Now that you have responded, I will... B

The one that is fried/broken/doesn't transmit proper voltage? Sorry... B

Well, first off, don't use UPS... I don't think it is the ground, but obviously get that out of the way. What does the battery read without the engine running? Obviously the issue is isolated or the engine wouldn't be running, so... Work your way back from the positive terminal, checking the fusible links, and branch into the relays, removing each one to check for contact/corrosion, checking voltage as you go. Might want to keep a multimeter with you for some quick readings when it acts up. Hard to chase gremlins when they have hidden... I'm no good with wiring circuits, but someone who is should be able to isolate the electrical path for those components from the diagram in the FSM. B

*snort* I understand, sometimes I get caught up in projects as well. Please do take good notes though, this might be the next big R50 mod! Yes, I can measure and photograph it for you. I don't have access to a metrology lab right now, but I have all my machining/measuring tools and a granite plate so I should be able to get some accurate dimensions. We'll start there to see if it is even close, and loaning it isn't out of the question, depending... Give me a few days on that though, my chore list is long... B

You have obviously done a lot of thinking and research on this, I'm interested to see how it works out. Yes, I have the 3220-LR in my garage awaiting an open carrier; for some reason I thought it could be installed in the R50's as well, but apparently not... B

I'd say this is in the right place. Let's see if anyone else chimes in with anything not in the write-ups. I see what you are saying, without having a stock stack up height value, the first try will be a Hail Mary. Does the FSM have thickness range or spec for the individual parts (ie to determine if they need replacing)? You might be able to work it out from there. Is the 33 spline VQ35 drive train specific? I thought the Lockright lockers that fit the WD21 also fit the R50. I hear you on the air lockers though. Be nice to have but way to expensive for me... B

Just match the length to that of the bushing or just slightly smaller and you will be golden. B

X3 Sometimes the master cylinder will leak out the rear seal which can/will run down the piston rod to some collection point and drip down. I've seen it on a lot of cars. Whatever your fix, you will have to bleed the system, so don't forget about the dampener on the passenger firewall. IIRC, bleed there first, then at the slave cylinder, but please check that in the FSM. (old dain bramage) B

Yep, quite a few things could be the culprit, and certainly more than one is possible. I just listed where I would start... Chasing a heating issue that is only caused by a faulty temp sender would be embarrassing though. I just tossed out where I would start (free, test, easy and cheap). Plenty of people know the basics of cooling systems and the VG30 (VG33) isn't any radical change from that. Got to start somewhere though... This is why I didn't mention fan clutch before, from my experience they are only the issue at lower speeds. I'd much rather it is a burp or sender issue. FYI, in a pinch, when overheating, open the windows (obviously) and turn on the heater full blast. This will help dissipate heat and be uncomfortable... B

Depends how often you lift a tire, and how badly... The stock LSD certainly is better than nothing, but some people rebuild them with an extra friction disk to stiffen them up. MY1PATH has a good write up on this IIRC, but isn't the only one. As for streetable, yes, they are, but you have to be careful turning in lower gears when it is wet unless you enjoy pirouetting, especially if it is a manual transmission. With your build, have you considered a mechanical locker? B