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FriedEGs

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  • Posts

    53
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '97 SE
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver, CO
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Offroading, Skiing, Mountain biking,

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  1. Question, do you have the 'Tow/Haul' pads from Power Stop? In other words did you get the Severe Duty brake set? (Most expensive of the 3 combos) What are your thoughts on the braking power and feel? Good initial bite over standard pads? Thanks
  2. Reviving this topic: Anyone using Airlift with Fluery's 2" kit in the rear? My theory is that the Airlift won't work because the spacer increases the gap between the bottom 'raised' seat and the top portion, (where the bumpstop was originally mounted) Anyone else have experience with this?
  3. Switzerland Trail, just north of Nederland, CO
  4. I remember my first time trying to get into 4L... Like everyone mentioned, def keep the transmission in Neutral when you engage and disengage the 4L. Press down firm and give it a good pull towards you. It's def not as easy as the 'on the fly' motion you get from 2H to 4H. Welcome aboard!
  5. Just to clarify, your cabin heater is normal hot and the engine temp is not overheating? Not sure if your truck is like all other 3.5 litres. On my G35 I had to keep the car on flat land and there was a valve on a hose near the back left of the engine (near the passenger firewall) that I had to open up. Nissan says to fill the coolant through the radiator cap until it overflowed from that valve in the back of the engine. Close the valve and close the radiator cap. (Fill the overflow to between min/max) In the past, with older Nissans I always had to raise the front of the car higher, to try to eliminate air bubbles which didn't work well with my G35. It was best to fill my 3.5L as mentioned above. Maybe give that a try and let the engine warm up to temp so that the thermostat opens. Watch the level in the overflow and fill as needed.
  6. Bad temp sensor can certainly cause misfire issues. The ECU 'thinks' the engine is either cold or hot because of that sensor and is making adjustments. A buddy of mine had that issue on a Ford and replacing that temp sensor fixed the issue.
  7. Thanks guys! I performed a voltage test on the MAP sensor and sure enough, wasn't responding properly. I also noticed that there was no pressure reading through the Torque App / OBDII diagnostic tool. Found a replacement MAP for $4 at a local Pick N Pull and so far, truck has not thrown any codes and has been performing well. Cross my fingers, hopefully the problem is solved! Thanks again for everyone's support.
  8. Did you ever figure out the cause of this P0105?
  9. Reviving old topic. Any updates on the fix of that P0105 MAP sensor code?
  10. Update: Intermittent misfire still present. Happens after the truck warms up to temperature, especially on warmer days above 50 degrees. Also, stalls at idle frequently. Codes: P0100 MAF Sensor > Tested the MAF circuit which gets 12 volts and the signal is measuring within spec and rises in a linear fashion, while I rev the motor. Also monitoring the MAF signal on my cell phone through the Torque app and the signal is consistent and rises with the increase in throttle. Codes: P0325 Knock sensor. Basically ignoring for now. Codes: P0105 MAP sensor: I tested the voltage at the MAP sensor and reads within spec. However, I have not checked vacuum, yet. Fuel pressure has been constant, so doesn't seem to be a fuel issue. Any idea's on what's going on?
  11. Jeff, thanks so much for the response. You mentioned the whistling sound which is what I've been hearing for the last 6 months which is the dead give-away to my problem. I ordered the part and replaced it. Take a look at the old part in the top of the pic. Wonder how the heck that blew up the way it did?
  12. I found the Warn hubs for $100 brand new from a local seller. (Local seller never installed on his Nissan and he sold his vehicle) I think Amazon has 'em for $175. There is another brand, MM or something like that which are less expensive and seem to be good quality as well. Install was easy, take the wheel off, take off the dust cover, the spring c-clip and the six 10mm nuts off. You'll need to take the old studs out and use the extended studs that come with the new hubs. Just use the old double locked nuts trick to get those studs out. There is a sticky write up on how to install on the board. Ball joints I used Moog on the lowers. Good stuff, so far. For lift and suspension, I just used some Gabriel's that were on sale with stock springs. I used the spacers above the strut/top hats which were $200 bux for front and rear and raised the vehicle 2"s which is great for CO trails. (31" tire as well) Look up "Fluery" in the search and you should find a member, based in Canada that supplies these parts. His website is http://4x4design.com/ Highly recommend!
  13. If you're anywhere near the Denver area there is a 96 SE with a carrier, in good condition. (Mostly surface rust) Located at the Littleton U-Pull. (South Denver)
  14. Your setup is basically what I now have on my 97 SE. (2.5 front spacer with 1.5 rear) I added new shocks and also have 31" tires. One thing I did to help reduce the wear on my front axles is to install some front locking hubs. (Warn) Since they basically release the front axles from the hub you reduce the wear on the CV joints since they no longer spin with the wheel. Obviously you won't be able to shift into 4WD on the fly, unless you keep them locked. So, right before I hit an offroad trail, I'll step out and re-activate the hubs so that I can utilize the 4WD shifter on-the-fly. (Same with snowy days, I'll just keep the hubs locked until all the snow melts.) As a huge benefit, you'll save about 3 MPG which will pay for the hubs in less than a year with normal mileage.
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