Piscator

WooHoo! Got my alignment done. Whoopie, you say, that's no big deal. Well where I am it is. With 2.5" suspension lift and a Calmini steering system, finding someone in Columbia Md is nigh impossible. I finally checked out a shop in Glen Burnie Md and they nailed it! Even got the steering wheel straight. I am totally stoked! Time to head up to Rauche Creek and bend something Piscator

WooHoo! Got my alignment done. Whoopie, you say, that's no big deal. Well where I am it is. With 2.5" suspension lift and a Calmini steering system, finding someone in Columbia Md is nigh impossible. I finally checked out a shop in Glen Burnie Md and they nailed it! Even got the steering wheel straight. I am totally stoked! Time to head up to Rauche Creek and bend something

Another LockRight fan here. Inexpensive and easy to install. Been driving on it as a dd for years. no fuss, no muss. Gets a little squirrely on ice but otherwise I don't even notice it most of the time. Offroad or in the sand while fishing, its amazeballs!

I just replaced the ignition switch on my 95. I had random non starting issues, turn the key several times, popular it out, flip it over. Couple more tries. Sometimes a faint click, other times not. Installed the new ignition switch tonight and she starts right up. Something to consider...

That rust isn't so bad. Glad you found someone who can do the job at a decent price. I too have a 95 and it's been the single most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. I just replaced the hatch and rear window struts and the ignition switch. I need to attack my drivers side rust, the frame behind the axle doesn't have much left, thinking on solutions for that... Check under the rear seat on the drivers side for a rusty bit above the muffler, great place for rust there I'm just up north of you in Howard county. If you need help...

I had the dreaded not always starting I til I turn the key a few times and then flip it over problem. She always has eventually started but it's been getting worse. So I read the procedure, looked at some web pages and bit the bullet and bought a new switch. One of the sites mentioned not removing the steering wheel per the procedure in the book. So I left it on Thank you Beer Garage! No need for all that tedious removing g the steering wheel It took less than 2hours, I still need to replace the plastic shroud and lower dash plastic cause it got dark. It was pretty easy. Drill out the screws -with luck they'll back right out, or just use an easy out. Plug in the connectors and a cable thingy and good as new. All those worn ignition switch parts are now gone. This war way easier than I expected. Not needing to remove the steering wheel made all the difference. Ahhhh

T-case, Hmmm I think its 90W140 Amsoil. Last time I went to change the ATF it ran like water and since the TX-10 trabnsfer case has never changed its part number, adn since it used to be speced for gear oil, it was an easy choice to make. It might be whatever the stock gear oil spec is, I can't remember.

I didn't do it today but I added a Harbor Freight onboard Battery Charger to my '95. I don't drive it enough and this will charge and trickle charge so its ready to go when I am. http://www.harborfreight.com/15-amp-three-stage-onboard-battery-charger-maintainer-99857.html

I have Nissan manual hubs on my pathy. They are fantastic. I still have my complete auto hubs as spare parts and my Warns that I got before I knew that Nissan even made manual hubs. The warns stick out further than the Nissan ones. I prefer manual because I don't have to back up to disengage them. In winter I can just dial in the manuals and shift in and out of 4wd as needed. I've never had any issues with any of the hubs I've used. Earlier discussion mentioned the stock LSD. When I was stock my LSD was very tight and when I changed the fluid I went with amsoil 90W140, which might have helped it run tighter (not truly sure). I'm now using the stock weight amsoil in both diffs (Front is an LSD out of a 300zx turbo) with the lsd slip additive in front for extra measure. I also have gear oil in the transfer case rather than transmission fluid. The TX-10 t-case used to be spec'd for gear oil and they changed it to ATF in the early 90's for reasons unknown. It works fine in any case and doesn't suffer thermal breakdown like the ATF does.

31`'s on highway and in the sand on the beach while fishing. 33's or 32's for off road, just depends what I can find in usable condition for cheap.

Thanks guys, I've not had to re-index them. I do need to get under there and see how bad the rust really is. SO I'm really just making sure I have options should I decide to replace. I just got a gallon of marine rust converter so once I'm done, or while they're off I'll put a wire brush on them and take the rust of and treat it. The back on unless I see something truly deep. Then on to the frame rot behind the rear drivers tire. Hoping to find a serviceable donor Pathy in a local parts garden and just take a frame section to weld in place. Once its warmer out....

Since I have to replace my LCA bushings I'm thinking I might just as well replace the Torsions. My old ones are AC's 30%+ ones and I've been satisfied with them. They're rusty enough that I think I'll replace them when I do the bushings since they have to come off anyway. So, Any recommendations before I buy from AC again? Its been over 10 years since I installed the current set.

Ahhh well, I didn't expect there was an easier way but there was always hope Just gotta wait until It gets warmer out.

Looking at procedures for remove/replacing the Lower Front control it clearly states you have to remove the Torsion bar....is there perchance, a work around for that? Please please please say yes