Piscator

WooHoo! Got my alignment done. Whoopie, you say, that's no big deal. Well where I am it is. With 2.5" suspension lift and a Calmini steering system, finding someone in Columbia Md is nigh impossible. I finally checked out a shop in Glen Burnie Md and they nailed it! Even got the steering wheel straight. I am totally stoked! Time to head up to Rauche Creek and bend something Piscator

WooHoo! Got my alignment done. Whoopie, you say, that's no big deal. Well where I am it is. With 2.5" suspension lift and a Calmini steering system, finding someone in Columbia Md is nigh impossible. I finally checked out a shop in Glen Burnie Md and they nailed it! Even got the steering wheel straight. I am totally stoked! Time to head up to Rauche Creek and bend something

Another LockRight fan here. Inexpensive and easy to install. Been driving on it as a dd for years. no fuss, no muss. Gets a little squirrely on ice but otherwise I don't even notice it most of the time. Offroad or in the sand while fishing, its amazeballs!

I just replaced the ignition switch on my 95. I had random non starting issues, turn the key several times, popular it out, flip it over. Couple more tries. Sometimes a faint click, other times not. Installed the new ignition switch tonight and she starts right up. Something to consider...

That rust isn't so bad. Glad you found someone who can do the job at a decent price. I too have a 95 and it's been the single most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. I just replaced the hatch and rear window struts and the ignition switch. I need to attack my drivers side rust, the frame behind the axle doesn't have much left, thinking on solutions for that... Check under the rear seat on the drivers side for a rusty bit above the muffler, great place for rust there I'm just up north of you in Howard county. If you need help...

I had the dreaded not always starting I til I turn the key a few times and then flip it over problem. She always has eventually started but it's been getting worse. So I read the procedure, looked at some web pages and bit the bullet and bought a new switch. One of the sites mentioned not removing the steering wheel per the procedure in the book. So I left it on Thank you Beer Garage! No need for all that tedious removing g the steering wheel It took less than 2hours, I still need to replace the plastic shroud and lower dash plastic cause it got dark. It was pretty easy. Drill out the screws -with luck they'll back right out, or just use an easy out. Plug in the connectors and a cable thingy and good as new. All those worn ignition switch parts are now gone. This war way easier than I expected. Not needing to remove the steering wheel made all the difference. Ahhhh

T-case, Hmmm I think its 90W140 Amsoil. Last time I went to change the ATF it ran like water and since the TX-10 trabnsfer case has never changed its part number, adn since it used to be speced for gear oil, it was an easy choice to make. It might be whatever the stock gear oil spec is, I can't remember.

I didn't do it today but I added a Harbor Freight onboard Battery Charger to my '95. I don't drive it enough and this will charge and trickle charge so its ready to go when I am. http://www.harborfreight.com/15-amp-three-stage-onboard-battery-charger-maintainer-99857.html

I have Nissan manual hubs on my pathy. They are fantastic. I still have my complete auto hubs as spare parts and my Warns that I got before I knew that Nissan even made manual hubs. The warns stick out further than the Nissan ones. I prefer manual because I don't have to back up to disengage them. In winter I can just dial in the manuals and shift in and out of 4wd as needed. I've never had any issues with any of the hubs I've used. Earlier discussion mentioned the stock LSD. When I was stock my LSD was very tight and when I changed the fluid I went with amsoil 90W140, which might have helped it run tighter (not truly sure). I'm now using the stock weight amsoil in both diffs (Front is an LSD out of a 300zx turbo) with the lsd slip additive in front for extra measure. I also have gear oil in the transfer case rather than transmission fluid. The TX-10 t-case used to be spec'd for gear oil and they changed it to ATF in the early 90's for reasons unknown. It works fine in any case and doesn't suffer thermal breakdown like the ATF does.

31`'s on highway and in the sand on the beach while fishing. 33's or 32's for off road, just depends what I can find in usable condition for cheap.

Thanks guys, I've not had to re-index them. I do need to get under there and see how bad the rust really is. SO I'm really just making sure I have options should I decide to replace. I just got a gallon of marine rust converter so once I'm done, or while they're off I'll put a wire brush on them and take the rust of and treat it. The back on unless I see something truly deep. Then on to the frame rot behind the rear drivers tire. Hoping to find a serviceable donor Pathy in a local parts garden and just take a frame section to weld in place. Once its warmer out....

Since I have to replace my LCA bushings I'm thinking I might just as well replace the Torsions. My old ones are AC's 30%+ ones and I've been satisfied with them. They're rusty enough that I think I'll replace them when I do the bushings since they have to come off anyway. So, Any recommendations before I buy from AC again? Its been over 10 years since I installed the current set.

Ahhh well, I didn't expect there was an easier way but there was always hope Just gotta wait until It gets warmer out.

Looking at procedures for remove/replacing the Lower Front control it clearly states you have to remove the Torsion bar....is there perchance, a work around for that? Please please please say yes

I think the Starter itself is OK, but I'll have a look at the Park switch since I can do that in my driveway for free Ordered a starter relay at my local Nissan dealer (yes, I could have got one someplace else but the oroginal part has worked until now so its good quality). According to FAST my Pathfinder does not have an inhibitor relay but does have a starter relay, weird since I thought they were the same thing. Then I'll be wanting to hunt up a remote oilfilter, the Pacesetter headers make it difficult to remove the old oil filter by the width of the roll seam (sheesh)

I have an Auto, WHere is the inhibitor switch? Hmmm WIll start crawling into Alldata, thanks

Eelay? WTF? and now I can't edit it before someone sees. Yea! Life keeping me humble! So it was Relay, not eelay. (headdesk)

'95 XE 4WD.. 182K On occasion I turn the key and I get a click, the usual dash lights come on but not starter turning over. Flipping the key over and trying a couple times always starts it, tho it is disconcerting. I once replaced the starter over this to no real effect (the starter has other issues too) So..., Should I be scoring a new ignition switch, and can it be keyed to my original key so I don't have to carry two? How bad a PITA is the replacement for that part DIY wise? or Is there a relay I san swap out quicker easier cheaper? and where the hell is is because my FSM says there is one but not where it is. Thanks

I'm not new but I've been parked for a while. Turns out my old registration is still valid. Who'd a thunk it. I have a 95 Pathfinder that I've modded about as much as I need to do what I want. I have an LSD up front adn a Lock-rite in the rear, A performance ECU and headers, an ARB up front and a custom hunk of 1/4" plate in the back that I won at an event a couple years ago. There are other mods but those are the only ones that make it go, so they're all that matter. I'd parked the the truck for about a year and a half, and have just put it back on the road. It started right up with a new battery and still gets crap for MPG but that's OK, its my fishing and camping car Uhhh and going to the range and Scouts. One thing I need is a rear frame section, from the drivers read coil spring back, its rusted out pretty bat tho there is enough to hold up the bumper. And an Alignment, I need an alignment...might have to replace the LCA bushings...I hope not because that'd be a PITA. Anyway, I'm back, I never posted much anyway but I'll hang out a bit and enjoy a community I once helped build.

Well, I can see more of it here than on TV. Besides, the big TV (your old one) is dominated by two little game playing demons who comsume all of its available capacity. I hooked up thewirestoday and at least now the little light comes on again. The fogs ( OK AC's 100 watt monsters) still won't go on from the switch. Once itswarm again someone who likes Keri's butt will help me trace the wires (since they aren't in the FSM :furious: ) After all, its not like I need them every day (well, OK I do see some AH who needs to be zapped by halogen landing lights pretty much every day)

I think the 50mm vs 60mm measurements are at the throttle body rather than the MAF. The biggest restriction in the VG30 system is the MAF, the opening is about the size of a silver dollar, the VG33 MAF has a much largeropening even accounting for the sensor sampler thingy in the VG33 model. XterraGuy is also right about the VG33 upper plenum flowing better than the VG30 model. At any rate, once its got done, I'll post a"how to" for everyoneto play with. Too frikkin cold for now though.

HoooRAH! I bet that was some interesting work, hard though...

I have a 3.3 plenum, Its currently with lee so he can port match it to the lower (and heads) I sent him for P&P. There are some vacuum lines that need to be rerouted or closed but its not too bad a conversion...you also need to get a VG33 valve cover for that side (lower profile) for it to fit. For now tho, I have the MAF in hand, Lee still has my heads and stuff so I'll do the plenum when I can.

Thank you K9sar adn Mr Pickles. Thats exactly what I needed. (and why I need to spend more time here!) Yeah, 2 of mine have the nice heat shrink on them and the white one has the masking tape. Glad to see Japanese workers so much more about their work than us Americans do ....not. My masking tape was not put on professionally and is unravelling, I need to get some more since all I have is electrical tape inappropiate for that application Do not cross the white or green whires with the purple one...you'll blow your right side headlight fuse..whats up with that? It must be part of how that switch is keyed to the low beams??? BTW K9sar, is your handle refelctive of your occupation?