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guycar778

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  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1993 SE-V6
  • Place of Residence
    Vancouver, BC
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Location
    Vancouver, BC
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. Yeah. Trying to decide on my next rig. probably won't go with another WD21. Hard to find a good one, and super easy to break into and steal. Looking at R50, WD22 Xterra, or FJ80 Land Cruiser. Would be good to know if my 33x10.5 BFG Mts fit on the R50s though.
  2. Hey all, My WD21 got stolen (bummer). But I've still got my 33x10.5 BFGs on Legos. Fortunately I had taken them off while I was running winter tires. I fit these on my WD21 with minimal work required. I'm wondering if I can expect them to work on an early R50 that also came with 15s. Looking for the easy path to fit them. I see lots of guys here are running a 2" lift and spacers up front, but they also seem to be running wider rubber. Anybody have any experience with this wheel and tire setup I'm thinking of?
  3. ok, I was worried about running the shocks too far out of their normal range, but maybe I just worry too much
  4. So I'm on the fence about doing a suspension lift. I have the adjustable suspension package, and I like it. But I do take it out on some mild trails, and want to do more with it. I will be putting 33x10.5x15 BFG MTs on some Legos on it over the holidays. Hopefully, I won't need a lift, and so these questions become moot. A little trimming of fender flares and I'm done! Sounds good, right? But I want to have some options in my back pocket in case the rubbing gets stubborn, especially when stuffing the rear wheels into the fenders. If I put on some Jeep spring out back, I should get about 1.5 to 2 inches. Does this much lift mean I need to get new shocks in the back? I'd bring the front up an equal amount by torsion bar crank. Also, as a secondary concern, if I disconnect the rear sway bar when I hit the trails, are the stock shocks able to handle the extra drooping? Either lifted or not.
  5. How much of a rear suspension lift can the stock shock absorbers handle? I've got the electronic adjustable suspension, and I have some jeep springs that should give me about 1.5 to 2 inches, and I'm wondering if I'll blow out the shocks with them running that much higher.
  6. Yeah good points. I just want an extra bit of ground clearance. Bigger tires get everything up a bit higher. I've already got 31s with no lift (it came with the 31s from the factory as an option). I've already got the 33x10.5 tires and an extra set of Legos for them. Just going to crank the torsion bars up to get level (it sits about an inch lower up front than the rear) and do a test fit. I was doing a bit of playing around off-road the other day and stuffed the rears into the wheel wells and had a look under. I expect I may have to trim the flares to clear the 33s when stuffed. I want to keep the flares and mud-flaps however, so I'll trim them down as much as possible. Otherwise, I may do some Jeep coils in the rear, but then that likely calls for rear shocks, so I'd rather not go that route.
  7. is there a preferred shock that folks are running with this setup? I could probably use a set, as it's probably still on the originals... that's the problem with these older trucks with low mileage I picked it up a couple years ago with about 130,000 kms and it's got 180,000 kms now I've got a set of used 33s on the way, so I'll just bang em on and hope for the best but I'll keep the idea of a body lift in my back pocket in case I get some stubborn rubbing that I can't get rid of with a t bar crank and some new shocks
  8. Don't suppose you have a part number for the Hardbody spacers, no? I just want to get 33x10.5x15's under there and don't want to be crazy high. I expect to crank the bars a bit if only to get rid of the sag that has developed after 22+ years. I've already got the 31's with lego wheels that came with the off road package. I just don't want to lift it too much (or at all if I can get away with it) because this is still a daily driver for me. So I'm interested in options to get me about 1" body lift. The 2" and certainly the 3" kits are too high for what I need.
  9. That went in easier than I expected. A lot easier than it came out of the junker anyway. Just had to loosen the rail to give me a bit of wriggle room and it went in from the inside quite smoothly. Got it running again too. New ignition switch unit ($140), 10A fuse for the shift lock, and fusible links (green and black ones, $15 new). Plus $50 for the window plus fusible links from the junker (just in case). I have no idea how the hell they managed to ruin all that. So that's Just over $200. Now to clean out the glass and button everything up. And get ready to do it all again in about 3 - 6 months.
  10. Anybody know if there's a trick to putting the rear door's big (sliding) window in without pulling off the window seals and trim? I sure did ruin them on the scrap car I pulled the window from, and I don't want to ruin mine putting the window in. Also don't wanna buy new ones if I can get away with it.
  11. Hi all, Unfortunately, my PF got broken into. We live in a high crime area, so we get it broken into pretty regularly. 3 times this year (so far). Yeah, it's more than annoying. Bad news this time is they caused much more damaged than usual. I've got a broken window to replace, and the steering column is all smashed up. Looks like they tried to steal it. Insurance aren't covering it. So I've got to fix it. The ignition barrel was busted. Looks like they tried to force it with a screwdriver. I managed to get it so that the key turns it all the way now. However, there are some wires disconnected from the ignition switch. All the soldered on wires at the back side look ok, but the wires at the key side are disconnected and broken. I kinda hooked up the wires where they looked like they should go, but got nothing when I turned the key. I don't mind buying a new switch and key if I need to. There's a local dude parting out his PF and he'll sell me everything for a decent price. But I'd like to get things working before that so I know that nothing else is busted. I can understand that security issues and the nature of this task may mean members not wanting to explain everything here on the forum in public, so maybe somebody who knows what they're doing could shoot me a private message on what to do to get this started up again. I didn't see any blown fuses under the dash, but do these trucks have a main fuse that could've popped? It looks like the thieves managed to get accessory power, because the windshield wipers are part way up the windscreen. Also, am I correct in that I'd need to remove the steering wheel to replace the switch? I don't have a portable drill and the truck is nowhere near a power outlet, so it's all hand tools here and drilling out the screws is not really an option. Thanks in advance for the help.
  12. sure enough, that was it couldn't see it from below the truck, but from above it was plain that the heat shield was interfering with the driveshaft I yanked it out and now all is good! I suppose I'll need to put something back on the exhaust pipe to help shield whatever it is that needs shielding, but for now I'm happy I've got a 4x4 again before the snow hits thanks for the ideas guys
  13. more symptoms I found, hopefully can lead to a better idea of what's broken put her into 4h and got on the gas, and there was no noise let off the gas and coasted, noise came back this was pretty consistent, noise under deceleration, no noise under acceleration then, while in 4h, had to do a sharp, low speed left hand turn, which caused some thumping, clunking and wheel hop right after this on a straight-away, there was no noise at all under accelleration or decelleration... none at all kept driving straight with no noise for about 250 meters or so, then had to make a gentle right hand turn, which caused the noise to return I'm pretty baffled because this is way above my skill level I'm trying to get a sense of what's wrong to decide if it's worth spending $$$$ to fix, or if I should just live with it, since it spends most time on pavement in 2wd
  14. just got under there finally, as the weather has been pretty good this winter so I haven't needed to use 4 wheel drive yet the noise looks to be coming from the front diff / front driveshaft u joint connection u joint seems pretty tight I didn't jack up the truck, just crawled under and checked for u joint play with trans in neutral and in 2 wheel so front disengaged I heard the noise when I spun the driveshaft with my hand very faint noise, but it seemed like it was coming more from the diff area rather than the u joint, but still close to the connection at the u joint, and not back in the diff housing so noise seems to come a bit forward of the u joint any more ways I can troubleshoot this without taking apart the front axle? I'd rather not if I don't have to I was thinking about just pumping the front diff full of fluid to see if it quiets down
  15. So swapping on some manual hubs is probably easier than rebuilding the auto hubs you figure?

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