StevenT73

Xterra: Am I correct in you have a stock deck with a small 4ch amp w/usb in and upgraded speakers? How well does getting a low line signal out of the factory harness before its amplified work? Or did you get a new deck and made the new amp work as if it were factory? Either way sounds like a idea to me. If I can get my stock deck to give me a good line level signal or I guess as long as you stay away from Chinese ones that RCA converters are much better than they were when I was into car audio (early 90's). Does the amp over ride the signal in if a usb device is plugged in/turned on? I have a Coustic amp thats not a bad little honest 80 watt or 20 a channel amp that has speaker out inputs but I have yet to ever wire a amp that way and like it.

Beatiful 2 door. Seriously. Mine is near mint as is yours. Will read the bypass info. It really sounds good with the JL speakers. I used a cd/cassette adapter and being a full logic deck you need not eject to play the radio, So I used one and then ran the wire out the back and fixed the door to be closed for hiding it. Its how I use it to have aux in. Works much better than I thought it would and its all hidden. Just hit tape and hello aux in. I still like my cd's and found 1 stand alone Sony cd unit that was available as a option but its fried and I can't find another. Would love to use the double din factory combo but I see so much conflicting info on how to wire it in to 2 amps or a 4 channel amp.... Headed to the pick a part, Maybe I will get lucky. I am glad I have the cable to link the stock deck and the single disc player. Is there a 2 in one that will just work?

Hey gang and please forgive me that I can't find the answer here so I must ask: 95 XE with 3/4 of the SE w/off road pack, Has a 8 speaker non-Bose stereo and I guess the Clarion system for this must have a external amp as I was playing around and decided to put my Sony head unit in as I already added JL door and rear speakers (Sounds suprisingly good) but when I used the plug and pray adapter to avoid cutting wires I had no audio. I know this is the rule on the Bose setup and I have a 95 Max Bose cd/cassete combo unit that if I need to run all new speaker wires I want to use my two Sony amps if possible and use this unit as factory looks nicer. The pillar tweets as well as the rear ones I don't care about. I have page after page of Stereo wiring diagrams and am still stumped. So am I missing something? BTW, I know there are 2 school's of thought and I don't know what to do but on a 205k original auto the fluid isn't burnt but I worry new fluid and the detergent in it will kill it... Opinion? .. Other than slow engagement into 1st on cold mornings it works great. Other than slow engagement into 1st on cold mornings it works great. Funny thing is if you put it in 2nd first it doesnt do that...? Your friend in Oklahoma Steve https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=707172906050848&set=a.145929195508558.22064.100002744366245&type=3&theater 95 XE 4x4 Skid Plates LSD Sunroof 235's Factory Alarm and fog's Dual tripometers Swing out spare 4 wheel disk's Rear air deflector Jim Wolf intake Add on tranny cooler Quest Alternator New Radiator 205k original slushbox tranny... Other than slow engagement into 1st on cold mornings it works great. Funny thing is if you put it in 2nd first it doesnt do that...? Soon to have SE climate control ( Shoud be fun ) anyone done that? And. what are the codes on the door jamb fpr type of rear and ratio?

lol.... I hear ya about the 20 year old part failing. That's why I said it was no surprise and it was pointless to get PO'd about it. I will look further to see what my best option is for getting the best or highest output alt that is a bolt on. If there is one that doesn't require much money to make it work, if it really is the best thing to get then I might could swing it. At a minimum if I can't find one on a V6 D or WD21 I gotta find something even if its output isn't enough to get me thru for at least a few weeks, Just wont run the a/c or drive at night for now. Being my work truck I must fix it asap. All the different scenarios is what stumps me. Every start it will do 1 of the 3 things listed and I have never ran into this before. To add insult to injury I take the fan shroud off for ease of access and the top hose nipple crumbled, I can get it to a slow leak but I will try to epoxy it for now because while I make a fairly decent living my bills and the ones of mom I am covering till she is well enough has me tapped out. I am far more concerned with her health than a alternator and she needs to get in her deposit box but that may be a little ways off. Oh, changing battery's with a known good one made no difference. Sorry for the sob story. Just wanting to explain how a minor issue is a major issue in terms of finances. I have a lot of Nissan parts of all sorts. I know I am new here but I am sure there is a way to assure people that they won't be burned. Time to see what I can find. Anyone know what a 95 XE w/most if not all available options came with in terms of amp rating? Thanks. Steve

Hey Gang, Before I tell you about the Pathy just wanted to say thanks for all the info here. My first vehicle was a 81 720 King Cab in 88, I have owned 23 Nissan's ( And Datsun's too ) as far as I can recall and I only mention that as I thought I had seen every possible charging issue on a Nissan including one that kept melting throttle cables. But while I would imagine is the alt and given that times are tight the alt was replaced with a 30 dollar used one at a pull-a-part a few months back I can't act surprised, In hindsight I now recall it was off a 88 with a VG30 but was a stripper. No pw,pl,a/c..etc.. That's all they had that day and I didn't even think to look at a Z31 or Max or even a Quest/Villager to see if there was one there. I think the Z31 non turbo would be the only one that would just bolt on but please correct me as I am all ears. 1 Batt light on and dim till revved past 800 or just off idle really, or a load put on it then all lamps come on... But it has 13.9 Volts at idle in gear with everything turned on full blast. When revved it will go to 14.3-5 full load but lamps stay on. 2 lamps on at start, get super bright when revved and will have 14.1 at no load idle and go all the way to 19.3! at 4k RPM's loaded or not. 3 Starts, batt light dim and stays that way till you go past 3000 RPM's then the lamps come on,this one will have mid 13's at idle and go down to 12.4 with load. This is what I have seen several times on many models. Checked and cleaned all connections esp grounds but for me what I have seen when there is a bad body ground a load will cause it to sputter and the lights will dim and flicker when you hit the brakes. I had a 88 200SX SE-V6 that was doing #2 but I only found out when I was trying to see why it was eating headlamps, Even though it was boiling the battery over it never did anything at all regarding lamps. But same scenario on the 95 triggers the lamps. I am hitting the pull a part in the AM and hoping I find something as my mom is in ICU and covering her bills till she gets out is killing me but I am the only kid so its me or no one. Not to be pushy but could someone lend me some advice asap? This is also my work truck ( TV and Appliance repair) and I can not be without it. I have looked at all the different postings but am unsure what will really just bolt on as its got to be fixed fast and there is no time to do any mods. Again, Thank you all and I have some interesting things to post but haven't had time, I know there is talk of the last few years of the WD21 created some odd combos. This is a XE with the chrome wheels and yet it has the limited slip diff and skid plates like a SE with the sport/ off road (?) package. Has a 8 speaker cd and cassette w/windshield antenna but not Bose. Weird. Put my charged spare battery in the back just in case but if its over 13.5 it should at least not run down? I thought you could run it off the alt alone like some vehicles I have had. Not this one. Oh, when the full load is on it does not act at all like its only running off the battery. Steve