Alkorahil

I can honestly say no difference whatsoever in the return/warranty rate. I cannot even remember the last time we had to warranty a reman alternator/starter/distributor....if ever. The last reman Nissan starter we sent back as a core to Nissan on that I can remember was off a Quest van and had been on it since like 1996 or 1998 and that was about a year ago. From personal experience, I have a rebuilt Nissan one on my hardbody and it has been on for 3 years now after the original one died. The one on the Pathy is 5 years old and still turning over.

Hi, my name is Kyle and I'm a Pathfinder addict.............

Nissan once made one but it is discontinued and no longer available. P/N 999R1-KL002 It also required the mounts (sold as a set of 4) to install it: P/N 999R1-XK002 IIRC Yakima was the supplier for Nissan.

this statement here is a classic sign of the handbrake switch being bad/out of adjustment! this switch is located on teh side of the base of the pull handle. Pull your center console to access it. Secondary and tertiary possibilities would be 1) the parking brake out of adjustment in the rear or the rear pads/shoes are worn too far down. 2) the parking brake calbe is worn/stretched adn needs replacement. Either of those though the parking brake would not work well if at all. Part Number: 36011-01F01 Description: SWTCH P/BRK LAMP $8.89 (NISSAN LIST: 20.75)

I agree! Good job hunting it down.

What are the symptoms you have? Isit leaking from overheating? that is the reason for Nissans most of the time. Replacing the Headgasket itself is not hard if you have the right tools, but it is time consuming. Make sure to use new headbolts, dont reuse the old ones. If your vehicle overheaded you should send the head off to be resurfaced. Because it is time consuming if you pay a machanic to do it it will cost $$$$. If you do it yourself be prepared to spend the weekand doing it.

And I appear! I of course fully recommend the OEM starter. Then again I generally tend to recommend the OEM everything.........I wonder why? Part Number: 23300-88G01R Description: REMAN STARTER ASSY $200.80 (NISSAN LIST: 291.13) CORE CHARGE: $60.00 Almost all of the Nissan starters (and alternators) are rebuilt in the US - here in Dallas to be specific. They have nice stickers that say 'remanufactured in the USA' on them. There are a few that are remanufactured in Mexico. / START RANT Here is the deal on these type parts ....Back 10-12 years ago all the aftermarket starters/alternators and so forth went from being rebuilt in north america to other places. Now all the ones you get from the large autoparts stores are rebuilt in Malaysia and the Philipines. I am sorry, They just dont last. To be blunt, if you buy cheap you get what you buy. I seriously believe in the modern day with walmart and china and importing everything that you get what you pay for. People are so desperate or 'trained' to get the lowest price that they spend more long term. I really believe now that higher price = quality and I am willing to pay more for that, especially when it comes to my vehicles. I have found myself more often than not asking what the HIGHEST price is first for this reason. Now granted, there are a few OEM things for my Nissans I just cant bring myself to buy, such as a OEM radiator for $600 when I can get a Kyoto or Mishimoto for $180-$200 and I know it is better quality.....but you will not see me getting the cheap $69 one on my truck ever. As pointed out above I have seen over and over and dealt over and over with this. People going to the autoparts store and getting a rebuilt starter/alternator/distributor from them because it is less then the dealer and has a LIFETIME warranty then they get it put in and it lasts 3 days or a month or they are replacing it once a year. If you are replacing it over and over -even if the part is under warranty- and you are paying someone to put it in at a repair shop.....that gets very expensive. Adn people think the dealer is ripping them off! If you do it yourself like a bunch of us here do...well its annoying to be doing it too often. Its not that the dealer is overcharging (though some indeed do!) it is the part from them and the part from Ebay or a parts store are not comparable in quality and you PAY for quality; and quality, at least in my mind these days = dependable and no worries about fitment and how long it will last. I will also add that - it may be a surprise- about 75% of the OEM parts you get at your dealer are..........wait for it.............MADE IN THE US! (the other major sources being Japan and Canada) I have seen a BIG shift in aftermarket parts now being made overseas. / END RANT

That is correct, the first few years they were made in Japan and in the US. IIRC after 1988 they were all US made. There are in fact some very very minor differences between the two vehicles. If fact after 95 the US truck got a new model designation to 'D21U' as it had to meet US safety/emissions standards (specifically air bags) and the US made trucks were the only ones made to meet them.

This sounds like the transfer shift solenoid not fully engaging/disengaging or being fully in 4H. The R51 uses an electronic solenoid on the back of the transfer case to engange, disengage and move the transfer case from one setting to the next. It also uses two sensors (neutral and 4WD position) on the driver side of the transfer case to sense what postions the internal parts of the transmission are in and will disengage the 4WD if it thinks it is not in the correct position. (as stated above, the computer thinking it is being helpful) I would have all these parts and the harnesses/connectors to them looked at.

adding to the above... You want to look for a V6 engine out of a Pathfinder or Hardbody with a production date after 06/93. Ideally you would want an engine from a hardbody truck made after 01/95. There are many used ones around here in DFW you can pick one up for $400-$500 used, There are also companies that remanufacture them and will offer warranties on the rebuilt engine. Either way if you replace the motor make sure it comes with the engine ECU to minimize any compatability issues.

I agree. that would be the first place to look on an older vehicle.

I have ES3000 on mine for the past 3-3.5 years and i have no complaints. I ran Bilsteins before that and found them comperable.

Passed safety and emissions inspection AGAIN.

I agree, sounds like a timing belt.

I would probably also cause the ABS light to be on all the time and in most states you can not pass inspection with this light on. I agree, a salvage yard part would be a good choice for a part like this.

I agree that it sounds like a harness issue. If you have poor contacts or a corroded harness it will not be able to draw enough power through the cables from the battery to the starter. When you turn the key over the vehicle nedds ALL of the volts it can draw for the starter to rotate the flywheel. Check the fusible links for corrosion. You have a two connector one at the top connecting to the positive terminal and two next to the battery between the battery and the power steering tank. One these is to the starter the other to the headlights, I dont recall which color with which though. Unhook them and look inside to see if they are corroded. I have seen many that look 'good' visually on the outside but when you inhook the connector and look at the contacts they are green with corrosion.

Reference: NTB13-062 Date: August 14. 2013 VOLUNTARY SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN 2002 – 03 SENTRA, 2002 – 03 PATHFINDER, 2001 – 03 MAXIMA FRONT PASSENGER AIR BAG INFLATOR CAMPAIGN ID #: R1302 – for Pathfinder and Maxima PM358 – for Sentra NHTSA #: 13V-136 APPLIED VEHICLES: 2002-2003 Sentra (B15) 2002-2003 Pathfinder (R50) 2001-2003 Maxima (A33) Check Service COMM to confirm campaign eligibility. INTRODUCTION TK Holdings Inc. ("Takata") has reported to NHTSA that certain specific front passenger air bag inflators, including inflators supplied to Nissan, may contain a safety defect. Nissan is not aware of any incidents related to this issue in Nissan vehicles. However, Nissan is conducting a Voluntary Safety Recall Campaign to replace the front passenger air bag inflator on certain specific model year 2001 to 2003 Maxima, 2002 to 2003 Pathfinder, and 2002 to 2003 Sentra vehicles at no charge to customers for parts or labor. Takata has issued return packaging, shipping labels, documents, and directions that must be used and followed in order to properly carry out this campaign. Takata’s documentation is attached and is part of this bulletin.

You may have a starter kill issue going on here with the unlocking of the door you mention without the remote, however the engine shuting off when it is at operating temperature leads me to think you have something else going on that is temperature related. I think you have a bad crank or camshaft sensor. They will cause the vehicle to die and when failing often will start sending intermittant signals when they get hot. They will also cause a vehicle shutdown. Other symptoms include random engine shut off and then it will start just fine again sometimes and other times not. I would look at a bad O2 sensor and Engine Temperature Sensor. On both of these sensors when the vehicle reaches operating temperature (after about 5-10 mins) the ECU will start reading signals from these sensors. If the ECU doesnt get signals within expected perameters it can cause the vehicle to die. Check the ECU for stored codes.

NATS immobilizer wasnt put in the R50 until 1999 model.

I would suspect that it was probably not filled properly the first time. It needs to be filled when the transmission fluid at operating temperature and in park, otherwise it will be low.

All north american WD21 use the same rear spring. There were no variations on this model. PART NUMBER: 55020-41G02 DESCRIPTION: SPRING-REAR

I sensed a disturbance in the force..........so I jumped online to see what Precice1 was doing.. Tearing up the outer bearing and hub may have also damaged your axle and inner bearing. Take a good look at it all your compenents. You mentioned calipers in the rear so I assume you have rear disck brakes. 38164-31G00 SHAFT ASM, REAR AXLE $147.32 43232-42G10 SEAL-OIL, AXLE, REAR, OUTER $6.03 43070-01G00 SPACER, AXLE, REAR $3.05 43082-42G00 CAGE, AXLE, REAR $37.22 43085-42G00 SEAL-O RING, REAR $4.71 43210-42G10 BEARING, AXLE, REAR $66.31 43064-R9000 WASHER, LOCK, OUTER $2.62 43069-R9000 WASHER, LOCK, INNER $1.71 43231-42G00 NUT-LOCK, AXLE, INNER $12.39 43252-VW000 SEAL-OIL, AXLE, INNER $6.03

Agreed!

Thumgs up for purple power as well!

Checked the ecu and get 55....no codes found...Idk why it would throw a tps code on the ATU and not the ECU.? The ECM and TCM on the WD21 are independeant of each other. Error codes in one will not show in the other. Followed fsm procedure and checked tps at the connector on the throttle body and at the AT unit in the rear speaker panel with meter and it's within range with no fluctuation or softspots I can see on the meter....In the last couple months, only once the power light didnt flash a code on startup and the truck shifted like a top...anyone have any insight where I should go from here? I would hate to piss away the $ on a new tps before I check everything I can.. Try this. Unhook the TPS and go drive it around the block. See if it acts the same as it does with it plugged in. If it acts the same as when its plugged in then the sensor is the culprit. The sensor may be completely fine and you have a short/bad wire to the sensor. This could help you figure it out.