Alkorahil

that is correct. That is correct. Alarm, roof rack, fender flares, grille guard, armrest extension, fog lights and steprails were all dealer installed accessories on the WD21.

Download the FSM (Factory Service Manual). It has a step by step with illustrations.

I know they have different boiling points and different specific gravitiy. Though as you say, DOT3 and 4 may not be much of a difference to matter on a Pathfinder. I was thinking of 6 pistion performace cars and mixing is bad there because those calipers run so hot.

Ahh now we have a culprit!

Visual inspection of the bolts on the engine and transmission mounts and the bolts on the tranmission bellhousing would be a good clue. See if it looks like they have been off before.

OOOOH I like that! nice idea!!!! I will have to keep that one in mind!

Far be it for me to pimp parts ...........might I also recommend: PART NUMBER: 24079-40F00 ENGINE SUB HARNESS $20.39 (NISSAN LIST $32.50) Many can attest on here that this sub harness fix has cleared up this issue for them. It provides a better ground for the MAF harness which may be the cause of your issues based on the symptoms described.

My three cents: 1) 94-95 flares/flaps are different from 93 on back as mentioned already. 2) 94-95 flares/flaps are not as trail friendly as mentioned already, the flaps do not flex causing clips and screws to pop or worse damaging your fender. 3) Hardbody rear flares will not fit a pathfinder. They are shaped differently. 4) WD21 Pathfinder flares and flaps were sold as accessories, they are NLA from Nissan.

As a followup, since you stated you recently aquired this vehicle I would look at: 1 rear springs+seats 2 front/rear shocks 3 reindexing the front torson bars. I would recommend sway bar bushings and endlink bushings, as well as control rod bushings. At this age every Pathfinder can use them being replaced if it hasnt been done before. None of this is overly difficult if you have some repair knowledge and can be done in steps even if you want.

I see four things here: 1) torn boots on endlinks. 2) riding on front bump stops/torn bump stop from compression from low ride height 3) worn out bushings 4) torn CV axle boot 5) riding on bump stop on rear

I agree, I have run both!

This issue intriges me. I pulled out the FSM (aka Pathfinder The Bible) and consulted chapter BR, verses 32-46. I was looking at the circuit schmatics and what circuits illuminate both the ABS and Brake light....three things I noticed right off the bat that will cause both to illuminate: 1) Fuses for ABS and/or Brake. Check them to make sure one or both they are not blown. 2) Brake Pedal switch dead. Make sure your brake lights are not on all the time and/or go on and off when you press the brake pedal. check the rubber stopper for the brake light switch as well that it hasnt deteriorated causing the brake pedal switch to not function. 3) Emergency brake switch. make sure it is functioning properly and the E-brake is all the way down. Three easy things to check to rule out. Sometimes it is somethign really simple. If none of this is the culprit, do the on board ABS diagnostic, it is in the FSM verse 34. It will tell you what the vehicle is complaining about. One other thing..... I echo the proper/re-bleeding the brakes others have brought up. I also saw you posted about topping it off with Dot4......did you mix Dot3 and Dot4 fluids when topping it off? If so, thats a no-no

Agreed. The MAF can be nice and clean and the harness connector be the problem as we have seen many times.

You say lights...... Do you have more than just the ABS light illuminated on your dash?

AGREED! Saved my butt once thats for sure!

Thank you for the kind words and votes of confidence. I am not defending any of the dealers mentioned, but some of it has to do with geography. According to the Dept of Commerce the Dallas/FtWroth metroplex is the most competative market in the US for dealerships, which forces prices down to compete. TX also has very low taxes for businesses, no state income tax and lower cost of living. I see some of you are in CA, with higher taxes business have to pay and higher cost of living, all of this is passed on to the consumer. In short, some of them may just be forced to do it because of where they are located. Some of them also do have the attitudes mentioned. Some of them are also the only game in town and do not feel the need and some just dont 'get it.' We are helping ppl out on here with their vehicles. Partially because I hate seeing peopel get rapped, and I love these trucks. But from a business sense....most all here are not in our geographic sales area.....so getting $1 is better than the $0 we should normal expect to get from somone 1000+/- miles away. But we benefit here and they suffer so......

They DID but they have been discontinued by bushwacker for almost 10 years now, will be VERY hard to find some even used but they did/do exist.

For these trucks I always recommend ProComp or Bilstein. I have used both and give both thumbs up.

P/N 30409-33G00 GUARD-UNDER, TRANSFER Some vehicles were not equipt with this part. As stated by others here it is very stout. At least twice as thick as the front skid plate.

Good job! Doing it yourself always gets a thumbs up.

Agree with the others above, it the idler arm, cneter link, tie rods, balljoints, CA bushings, etc are all good, vehicle is aligned and tires balanced I would think about the steering rack. there is also an adjustment bolt on the steering box. I took some slop out of mine this way, but it is a time consuming 'trial and error' adjument back and forth to get it 'just right'.

Download the factory service manual (FSM). It is in .pdf format and has what you are looking for.

ZOMBIE THREAD!!!!!!!!!

what are you filling up?

It brings me hours of joy every day while driving my truck to and from work.....I do not know how I ever lived without it. Every morning when I get in my truck I look at it mounted proudly in the center of the dash and think......too bad Trogdor doesnt have one.......