Alkorahil

Kerosene and rubber tend to not like each other. Kerosene will make the rubber swell and if it is nitrite rubber it will melt it. Dawn or similar diswashing detergent and a good brush will work well. Brake cleaner to help loosen things will work well as will Simple Green and a brush

Look in the FSM for the test proceedure for the level sensor. If the information you are looking for is anywhere it will be there.

Weird situation, thats what I am leaning towards as well.

sweet deal!

Agreed. Good thing to check first.

Very well! Most common problem I see is the sensor on the end of them getting accidentaly cracked when taking wheels or caliper while doing a brake job on and off. So take a little extra precaution when doing that. Very hard "curb checks" where you damage more than just the tire/wheel such as the hub, control arms and so forth can also do this. Also... Dont yank on the wires hard! Dont overtighten the bolts at the sensor as that may crack the housings as well. (Also, and old Japanese but told me to not get them wet, or feed them after midnight.....)

If the speed sensors were not working you would get an ABS light on constantly.

We have used them a few times in the past here at the shop and not had any issues.

I had the catalytic converter off mine for a week a while back while doing some work. Made the Hardbody sound like it had a Huge V8 in it or something. VERY loud when accelerating. I had two people ask , one at a stop light and one at a gas station what I had in the truck under the hood. LOL In short.....its too loud!

Agreed X2

I hope they catch the bastards!

The drain plug for the evaporator is clogged! You need to flush out the drain plug. It comes out of the firewall opposite the AC system. It you get under the truck on the passenger side and look up at the firewall you will see a black rubber tube about 6 -8 inches long comeing out of the bottom of the firewall near the passenger side frame. You need to get compressed air and blow it in this tube to free up the crud that is blocking it. you may have to repeat this process a few times depending on how messed up it is. If you do not feel comfortable with this take it to your local dealer and have them do a full AC EVAP service, they have special chemicals to really give it a good cleaning. You should also then clean your AC evaporator trap. remove the glove box and the metal wall behind it, then remove the AC resistor and get a vaccum and suck all the crud out of the evaporator housing.

When this happens it usually means the gods of auto repair demand a sacrifice!

Been there done that. Usually happens after working all day and its 100F outside. "Why arent the lights coming on???" <insert small tantrum> "OH......maybe..." <reverses bulbs and gets illumination> "Ahh there we go"

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!

IMHO PB Blaster should be in every toolbox.

Seen that many times! No center 'button' left and still starts. What Precise says!!

Do it. Do it now!

I was about to say there is a reset proceedure for the windows. Seems like you found it!

Even if these ideas dont clear up yourt issue I think it is a great idea to do them! But I would bet they do fix it, or at least make it better!!!

Yeah, the yellow jackstand is on its side and I can now see it is fully extended out, and tHose are ramps on the back for the rear wheels. Now I get the idea of what this guy was doing and it was extermenly dangerous!

GUILTY.

At the front passenger side corner of the pic I see a floor jack.....and he was doing it in the grass or with wooden boards. such a bad combination.... sad. I have been known to go double jack stand when I work by myself in my garage just for safety and all my stands are 5 ton. Chalking the wheels is also very important, dont assume your ebrake is perfect!