Alkorahil

Passenger side is always RIGHT SIDE Driver side is always LEFT SIDE

I have the diagrams from the install kit at home. I will try to remember to look at it this evening. IIRC there was a jumper between the door locks and the timer that was put in when installing the alarm system that is now not connected to anything...giving you the problem you have now.

Impressive!

That is good information to know! I will have to remember that.

PART NUMBER: 999R1-XM000S6 SUPPORT COVER, RH $9.84 PART NUMBER: 999R1-XM000S7 SUPPORT COVER, LH $9.84

PART NUMBER: 31037-31G11 DESCRIPTION: RESISTOR, TRANS $35.84 (NISSAN LIST: $69.06) This item is still available from Nissan.

The front o-ring/protector and the socket are two seperate parts that connect together. you shoudl be able to rotate the socket 180 degree while holding the protector and unhook the socket. After being in the vehicles for so many years they tend to get a little uncooperative coming off.

The Mazda3 is 30 years newer engineering and technology!

I agree with both above. Clutch cylinder related issue. It may be the master or slave going out or time for new fluid. Make sure it it filled up properly as well. If it is old.low fluid it is expanding when it gets warm from use and thus back to working 'as it was before'

The front and rear speakers are on sperate channels feeing through the factory amp. If you recently installed a new headunit, you need to do a factory amp bypass.

Well if it is 4WD its definately not a carrier bearing. If it sounds like it is coming more from the rear it could be the front drive pinion bearing where the driveshaft and differential meet up. could be critically low fluid in the diff too if from the rear. If this is a MT tranny and it sounds like it is from teh front it could be the rear main shaft bearing making noise, again could be low MT fluid. There are not any weights or anything on it. If the propeller shaft is bent or dented too much it will wobble.

Good job Leo!

There are three bolts with nuts at the firewall to check. See if they are loose. Either was that doesnt look good!

There are lots of possibilities! Get creative!

It does sound to me like the tach regulator is toast. Mine did almost the exact same thing a few years ago. It would read correct/nominal at idle. At highway speeds it would jump to 6K which I knew wasnt correct. After a few weeks it stopped doing this and would instead at highway speeds jump all over the place instead randomly, settle out to 3K, then bounce around again. I guess you maybe skipped that last step. Solution was to replace the tach with one from a salvage yard. Paid $50 for a compelte cluster. Worked perfect after that! Make sure to get one from a 96-97 4WD. Good job thinking to check the connector on the side/base of the distributor for a good connection.

My previous Pathy had Magnaflow and the Borla. I was pleased with it. Lots of people commented on how nice it was too. A nice purrr but not super-obnoxious loud.

I can make that happen if you insist

Borla Stainless Steel Cat-Back Exhaust System for WD21 Production dates 08/89-10/95 (90-95 model years) 50 State Legal. 1 Million Mile Manufacturers Limited Warranty 2 inch diameter, 3 inch tip. $415.00 (MSRP $515.00) + ship insured (about $20 give or take) (compare that to $375 for a new stock muffler.) They have two in stock.

Be afraid. Be very afraid.

Is this vehicle 2WD or 4WD?

Yes, there is a potentially time consuming process to set the correct position on it. The TPS is not 'plug and play' You need to download and consult the FSM for the correct proceedure.....and have a good supply of patience on hand when doing it.

Agreed!

I can still get the stainless steel Borla catback for the WD21 from Nissan Motorsports. They have a few left.

The shock sensor is a black box about 2x2x1 inches witha harness coming aout of it. It was usually mounted on the firewall up behind the pedals.

You can adjust the sensitivity on the shock sensor