Alkorahil

PART NUMBER: 20692-1P100 DESCRIPTION: GASKET-EXHAUST $7.08 (NISSAN LIST: $9.60)

I agree! Thats how I think anyways. HUGE improvemnt? no. Improvement? Yes. so I am happy.

I didnt mean to thread jack this. As to the question on the part. I can definately see it having some use on a unibody vehicle; it is the same as some items you find on some of the high end unibody sports cars to stiffen the rear chassis. .............and the price seemed reasonable to me.......

The factory service manual has the proceedure to read the transmission code(s) stored and find out what they mean.

Agreed. Give it a good cleaning, resealing and a nice thick new coat of paint on the outside.

True that. NOT knocking the R50 at all here.....just SUVs and people in general The R50 was going into the SUV craze: when SUVs moved from being sport UTILITY vehicles to being suburban mall crawlers and soccer mom vehicles that had 4WD to make people feel cool....and leather seats and all that jazz. There was an article a while back in one of the automotive industry magazines, that stated based on their polling 70% of the people who own 4WD SUVs have never used the 4WD. I was shocked by that but then again we have had people trade in their 3,4,5 year old vehicles here who didnt even know they had 4WD.........

When you start the vehicle does the orange light on the POWER/AT switch below the driver side air vent flash several times before turning off?

two: Where is the return side(engine side) of the harness that to the speed sensor ? pin out would be nice It is one of the plugs on the passenger side of the vehicle near the fender and power steering reservior, but I dont rememebr which one...... Follow the harness from the speed sensor along the frame forward and up to the firewall and you will figure it out

E-Brake switch Seat belt switch Fog light switch (if equipt) Vehicle alarm (if equipt)

Good deal. I think this will solve your problem. It has worked for me in the past with water/mud getting on the motor. another hint, if you have access to compressed air. remove the spark plug wires THEN blow out the galleries with compressed air, lots of stuff/trash/mud/crap can collect there and fall into your cylinders when you pull the plugs out.

Like Precise said, check the ECU see if there is anything stored. It might help figure out what the issue is. Do you have a lower skid plate and are the rubber side skirts in the front fenders intact? I suspect the cause will be water in the engine bay splashing up on something more than undernearth teh chassis. I am thinking its water on the distributor cap. Some caps have a breather on them and water can get in (been there) or poor seals around the base allowing some moisture inside. If you pop your distrubutor cap I would not be surprised if there was condensation inside, which can cause some arching inside the cap. ON a non-humid day I would get a can of wire dryer, http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05104 its about $3 for a can and spray the inside of the cap, let it dry and then use a small amount of white lithium grease on the lip of the cap and re-attach it to the distributor. A small amount of dielectric grease on the cap would be ok too. ALSO the spark plug wires have DEEP galleries that water (and other crap) can fill up with. The heat of the motor will evaporate the water but it can play hell with the spark plugs making contact with the wires for a moment if you have old spark plug wires with bad sealing boots and/or no dielectric grease on the spark plugs. You can pull your wire off the spark plugs, get a flashlight and see if any rust is developing on the spark plugs or inside the wire boots. Do you have any warning lights comeing on when this happens?.

dont forget the front differential

PM me the VIN and I can tell you the part numbers, dates and applications that will work on your vehicle.

It is a sensor on the side of the air duct coming out of the air filter box. P0160 is the bank 2 sensor 2 Oygen Sensor - P0160 No Activity Detected is it plugged in??? P0100 and P0325 are probably caused by P0160.

Yep! Shows the same part number all they way though from start to finish on the WD21 PART NUMBER: 48530-31G25 DESCRIPTION: IDLER ASEMBLY, STEERING

I was hoping he was lucky and all the door and firewall seals held........

When you say water was up to the widonw, etc, as that on the outside of teh door or was there water inside the cabin as well?

The brown 3 wire is to the main power harness, ECU, etc The green and black is to the starter, In the second picture, the brown single loop is to the headlights.

Here is the part info for the three fusible links on your vehicle. WD21 VG30E MANUFACTURING DATES: 07/92-10/95 24021-V5003 LINK, FUSIBLE $5.68 24022-01G00 LINK, FUSIBLE $7.13 24022-84M60 LINK, FUSIBLE $10.02

What I was thinking.

OH and it does two things: lowers the air pressure needed coming in from the air intake to fill the cylinders as the valves open and close and reduces noise from the intake.

That is one of the two resonators for the air intake.

I misread, a known bad O2 was mentioned and I assumed CEL on. You should be getting a bank 1 or bank 2 )(or both) low effeciency code. But again, with the strong smell I keep going back to one or more of the four O2 sensors on the R50.... OR really bad/cheap sulphur rich fuel ...........which doesnt fit it running fine then choking out in stop and go traffic.....