Alkorahil

Agreed!

VIN of your truck will tell me what should be on your truck as well as how many teeth it is and what color. D21 and WD21 all used the same pinions but there are many different ones as you stated based on tiresize and so forth. For the WD21 there are 4 different pinions: 17,18,19, 20 teeth for 1988-1993 and the same for 1994-1995.

The gearing would be different in the odomoter and the tripometer for sure. The tach will not be any different as it is RPM and not metric/english. The circuit board is also the same as is the speedometer pinion so it doesnt look like its a major project to convert.

I had two in the roof rack of mine for a few weeks on a road trip and there was a noticible drag and reduced milege down the highway, not sure it was as high as 4-6 but it was there and enough to make me take them off when I got home.

I go with pulling the tranny, but it is not fun, esp if it 4wd.

Hitachi, Akebono and Textar all supply pads to Nissan. If i may recomend for consideration......Nissan Motorsports has a front set of pads I used on my own truck when I did my brakes/rotors last year and I love them. I also like that they have them on clearance for $32.48. (as of last week) The supplier for them was Axxess. I can say they have a noticably better 'bite' Downside is they make much more brake dust than the Nissan OEM.

Umm... On a 2003 with a 3.5L the IACV is built into the thottle chamber.

May also be a factory QC mark. If you PM me your VIN i can tell you real fast if it has LSD or not.

Was it NissanMaticD or Dex/MercIII fluid that was used? Did you at any point have an A/T temperature light on the dashboard come on? Any other type fluid should not be used. Was the transmission filled up to proper level? Make sure to check fluid level while vehicle is in N not P. I assume both were done but have to cover all the basics first. However, based on what you are describing, I think you have a torque converter valve or pump issue you are dealing with. Torque converters are sealed units that pump hydraulic fluid in and out of the converter to move the plates together or apart. This hydraulic fluid travels through a torque converter clutch lockup valve. Either this valve or the pump that supplies it can go bad, resulting in low or inconsistent fluid pressure. As with the other possible mechanical problems, this problem allows the disks to alternately grab and lose grip. You could also have a worn Friction Plate, but doesnt seem to fit your symptoms posted. Torque converters, like manual clutches, use friction to accomplish their job. A metal disc or plate covered with high-friction material presses against another plate to transfer the power from the motor's crankshaft to the transmission. The converter increases the pressure as the transmission handles the speed without choking the engine; it also decreases the pressure so the plates can separate when the transmission cannot turn quickly enough. If the friction plate becomes worn, it rapidly grabs and slips at high speed. There are also damper springs in the converter that can also go bad. The torque converter clutch engages and disengages rapidly, both in response to changes in gas pedal pressure and movement in the suspension system. The damper springs act like small shock absorbers, preventing the disks from bouncing wildly when they join or separate. These issues are usually caused by heat. Heat is bad for an automatic transmission. A secondary issue is simply age of the unit and how many miles are on it. As transmission fluid recycles back through the turbine, it picks up frictional heat. Once the amount of heat generated by this friction surpasses the transmissions cooler's ability to shed it, the fluid thins and power transfer becomes inconsistent. Other sources of heat build-up are are failing transmission clutches or bands, and blocked coolant lines or radiator. Overloading the transmission also produces excess heat, as anyone who has towed a heavy trailer up-hill can attest. Once the transmission fluid has been overheated enough times, it becomes permanently de-polymerized and need to be replaced. The stock cooler on these vehicles is prone to clogging as the vehicle gets older, causing the transmission fluid to not cool as effeciently as it should or not circulate at all causing transmission damage. In addition the stock cooler is 'just big enough' for normal operating temperatures when new, a heavy load or high external summer temperature areas will cause the fluid not to cool as effeciently as well as it can not dissapate heat fast enough. There are several threads on here about bypassing the stock transmission cooler and using a larger cooler in its place.

what MYPATH said X2

A few years ago when I did the radio in my truck, I put everything back together and had the same problem. I retraced my steps and had forgot to plug the harness back into the hazard and dimmer switch when I was putting the trim bezel back on. Silly me. It may be something as simple as that.

I have to appologize to SIM The software at work only allows us to decode US and Canadian models. I also have a Japanese JDM cataloge software, but I cant read Japanese.....just part numbers which is what we use it for primarily.

I did the same as Trogdor on mine, same shocks even.

I found some non-US Hardbodies that do while looking!!! They had holes cut in the bumper each side of the license plate area. Too bad they are so totally different from the Pathy.

So I did more research......they were used on Europe and Latin/South Americam vehicles. They were for 88-92 models. The fog light housings are the same as the US front fog lights. It also used a relay in the relay box in the engine bay, not mounted to the firewall. The brakets to mount to the rear frame and the harness are what would be cool to get a hold of....but sadly I cant order any of this in the US...... But while looking up these parts I did find..........

There are gears inside the supercharger housing. The pitch on the shafts may be different too. I think those will be different for idle purposes, MT and AT idle at different levels.

plug missing!

Back in the day 7 years ago or so I got mine from Nissan motorsports and it was about a third of that price. I love mine. You can hear it sucking air in

Those venturi chamber parts are getting hard to find and those still supplied by Nissan can be scary expensive. I really hope for you it is not an injector issue! I agree to test other things like the fuel pump, fuel pressure and fuel supply to the injectors.

I also stumbled on "Rear Fog Light Kit w/ mounting bracket, RH/LH-Rear bumper" while trolling through the old Nissan parts stuff. Anyone seen or have this? I am going to dig into it more tomorrow and see if I can order one still....see what in the world it is!

Thought of this one the other day.....there was a new internal parts memo posted about this very part.... "Not available for order, not used on US Vehicles." I guess they got tired of people trying to order it. I know I would not mind having one.

I looked at the FSM. Both the IACV and TPS have trouble shooting and diagnosis/testing proceedures for the hard parts that might be worth looking into. Also mentions bad/stuck Engine Temp Sensor to the ECU <- interesting!! There is also the idle speed adjustment screw, has it been messed with at all? If no it doesnt make sense to mess with that then. If vacuum lines are fine..... hmmmm. Secondary air system hoses under the intake plenum....are they good and not cracked? PCV valve clogged shut? If it is those hoses underneath are probably clogged too. Fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel regulator. It is about 3-4 inches long right above #6 spark plug. It is prone to crack on the ends and leak the vacuum or simply fall off/come unattached. that would effect idle. trying to think outside the box here.....

Just saw all of this...I was going with IACV as well.....hmmm What about the IACV regulator?

If anyone ever needs their VIN and Model decoded shoot me a PM with the VIN.

The three bolts that go through the lower control arm and into the ball joint are connected together by a piece of metal in a L shaped pattern. Thats the best way I can describe it..... Thanks grnmachine and ferrariowner for the kind words.