Alkorahil

for the stubmling symptoms, Check the codes as mentioned above. As stated it can store codes and not trip the CEL. Based on the symptoms you are giving and that it has been sitting up for awhile, replace the engine coolant temperature sensor, clean or replace the Mass Air FLow Sensor and replace the O2 sensor..in that order. One or more of those would give the promels you are having.

Excellent job!!

crazy tach problem! If precise's solution doesnt work you will have to replace the tach. Check fleabay and salvage yards. Some folks on here might have one as well.

Sounds like you may be on the right path, the wire grouding somewhere due to exposed wire would be a good guess. Second option would be the door hinges have sagged and the door is not fully shutting and closing the switch all the way, so it makes intermittant contact.

I agree.

It only will really kick in when the rear end of the truck is under load....meaning you are towing something.

X2 here

Yeppers! The 4WD D21 and WD21 are the same from the B pillar/midframe forward. The rears are completely different setup.

Yes there are I have seen them. I am sure someone here can name where to get them. I am just drawing a blank.

cut the hose or get the pliers, if you buy the pliers they will cost as much if not more than the replacement cost of the hose....but then you get new tools.....

I tried and tested repair method! I have created new cuss words using this method and even spoken in tounges a few times.

Precise and flurys are both right. If you have a compressor use Fleurys method, if not use the one Precise gave. I have done Precise's method twice and it isnt too difficult once you get in there.

Good that it turned out to be something relateively simple and inexpensive. Sounds like it needed plugs and a new cap years ago!

The knock sensor code is probably a bad connector at the sensor, since it has been around for awhile on the vehicle it could have finally gave up the ghost. You have spark at the plugs then it is not a fusible link issue. But It does sounds like a distributor/timing issue is what you are dealing with. I would hook it up to a timing light and see what it says. You could have jumped a tooth or the distributor could have moved (rotated) out of place by a few degrees. You may also be dealing with at bad pick up sensor in the distributor which will lead to a no start situation and the P0300 code.

stock thermostat is 82C or 179.6F on your engine it should be 10 over whent he fan kicks in.

Yeah kinda sounds like a timing issue.

That gives it personality! (Thats how I rationalize mine doing that)

IIRC the owners manual recommends if you are doing sustained speeds under 45 mph and/or stop and go traffic to keep it off.

Nice to see some love shown! If you love it it will love you!

A blinking Cruise Control light is an error indicator. Try what Towncivilian said to find the error.

Hayden is good, but I prefer the stacked plate B&M with steel protection around it as well. I have used B&M both times and had no problems at all.

True that.

ZOMBIES! The Zombie threads are rising!

Yes it is the uretheane. It now supercedes to tube of uretheane sealant. Any decent glass replacement company would have this already on hand.

Agreed. Sometimes when the bearings go out on a water pump it can make some very horrbile noises. It basically wants to seize up but the motor is forcing it to still turn. I have seen bearings smoking and belts smoking from this. Overheating will likely harm the thermostat since it just got cooked. I would replace it and any other coolant hoses that feel 'thin' Make sure the radaiator cap still holds pressure too if the radiator boiled over.