Alkorahil

Nice guess I have something to read now when I get home. About time they had something that wasnt Jeep Jeep Jeep.

Yeah I noticed that too. Guess the didnt like the answer... Wonder what the odds are the still has it 3.5 years later.

zombie thread.....

Looks like the earth/ground cable to me, kinda hard to see in the pic though. Is it black with a yellow or white stripe?

Hi there, seems to me from your description you are picking up harness noise, not alternator noise. your wires running power to your radio are too near an EGI harness that sends out electrical signals. the radio wiring is picking that up. i would look and see how close the radio wires are to the harness going to the ECU first. if you ran wires under the carpet to go the the RH front door or to the rear you probably layed these wires over or too near the harness to the ECU and are getting signal from that harness.

X2

Good call on the bushings! Totally blew past my mind, I was going straight to something complicated. LOL I agree, check them first. At the age of the vehicle one could have split/shattered and is blocking the shift now. Form there I would look at your shift forks. Also, If you get under the truck with it parked and off, and look up from underneath and have a buddy move the shift lever around you may see what is causing trouble. And I would add, maybe it needs to be bled again, since it sat up and didnt work after you did the repair. Did you replace or put in a new seal kit on the cylinder?

Could be waterpump, could also be thermostat housing or bypass hose, they are up above the crankshaft pully and cold be leaking down onto the pully. I think most people on here will agree that if you have a little mechanincal skill the timing belt is not as hard as it looks and sounds and once you do it, it seems easy. But it will take a whole day your first time.

I should hope so!

I have only done one once on an automatic transmission 4WD 1995 Pathfinder. I was 14 years old at that point and had a little over 200,000 miles when I did it. It was not 'fun' spending all that time to replace one small $30 seal but it was leaking everwhere and loosing half a quart of oil a week, so I had no choice. All the suspension and drivetrain stuff that has to be removed is intimitading to think about. Being 4WD doubles the amount of time to do the job, even with a lift.

Thumbs up!

I agree, lithium grease will work fine. I would add, before you do, get some brake cleaner and spray your hood latch - get rid of the old buildup on there before applying new grease. A light coat on the hood male end of the lock would be ok as well.

They do have nice looking stuff

The bulbs do not complete any sort of circuit in the switch as far as making the electircal item the swtich controls work or not. I took a look at the heated seats parts. The seat back and seat bottom heaters are not connected in serial to each other. The subharness is a Y shaped harness. So if the seat back heater element is burned out or unplugged, the seat bottom will still work. I would be looking to the subharness and connections for your trouble spot. I would unhoook the subharness where it plugs into the heater element and see if you have power there, then unhook the subharness where it connects to the main harness, test the subharness for continuity. It it is fine then the power supply problem is in the dash somewhere. Electrical gremlins can be fun. If you have power in the subharness, then the elements are burned out. IIRC there is a fuse in the fuse bock in the accessory2 position for the heated seats.

Wiper marks on glass as in wipers turned on without wiper blades installed? Turtle wax or similar and a buffer can sometimes get some of it out. Have had some moderate results before doing that. I wonder if 8000 or 10000 grid sandpaper wet sanding would work. I will ask the detail shop tomorrow if they have any tricks.

Why didnt they replace the IACV then? Not unheard of to do on the 3.5L when it is 10 years old.

I dont understand how they got off on testing the ECU and replacing it and all with a P0505 code, it is just a simple relearn of the ECU (which your independent shop probably wont be able to do.) Here is the TSB on that code: Classification: Reference: Date: EC00-011 NTB00-041 May 2, 2000 2000 MAXIMA & SENTRA, 2001 PATHFINDER; DTC P0505 DUE TO INCORRECT ENGINE IDLE SPEED APPLIED VEHICLE(S): 2000 Maxima (A33) 2000 Sentra (B15) 2001 Pathfinder (R50) SERVICE INFORMATION If one of the Applied Vehicles above has a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0505 AAC/V stored, with no customer driveability incident, it may be caused by an elevated or incorrect engine idle speed setting. In some of these cases, the Idle Air Volume Learning (IAVL) procedure should be performed to resolve the incident. Use the Service Procedure outlined below to identify and address this incident. NOTE: The Idle Air Volume Learning (IAVL) procedure referenced here is a new procedure for the Applied Vehicles. Idle speed is now completely controlled by the Applied Vehicle's ECM. The "base idle speed" adjustment is replaced by the IAVL procedure. SERVICE PROCEDURE NOTE: If a DTC is found when checking the "SELF-DIAG RESULTS", "FREEZE FRAME DATA" MUST be printed BEFORE the code is erased. 1. Using CONSULT-II, select "ENGINE" and "SELF-DIAG RESULTS." Verify that DTC P0505 AAC/V is stored. Select "PRINT" and attach the printout to the work order for future reference. 2. Select "F.F. DATA", select "PRINT" and attach the printout to the work order for future reference. 3. Does the Freeze Frame Data printed in step 2 show an engine temperature above 158° F (70° C) and an idle speed near the target idle speed show in the chart below? MODEL IDLE SPEED 2000 Maxima M/T: 625±50 rpm, A/T: 700±50 rpm (in "P" or "N" position) 2001 Pathfinder 750±50 rpm (A/T in "P" or "N" position) 2000 Sentra (SR) 800±50 rpm (A/T in "P" or "N" position) 2000 Sentra (QG) M/T: 650±50 rpm, A/T: 800±50 rpm (in "P" or "N" position) • If yes, proceed to step 4. • If not, refer to the EC section of the applicable Service Manual for diagnosis of DTC P0505, including circuit checks. 2/3 4. Start the engine, bring it to operating temperature, and then let it idle. 5. Press "BACK" on CONSULT II to back out of "F.F. DATA" and "SELF-DIAG RESULTS." NOTE: "BACK" may need to be selected more than once to get to the desired screen. 6. Select "DATA MONITOR" and "SELECTIONS FROM MENU". Select the following items: • Engine Speed. • IACV-AAC/V. • Ignition Timing. • COOLAN TEMP/S. 7. Press "START" to launch "DATA MONITOR". Then press "COPY" to print the items selected and attach the printout to the work order for future reference. 8. Press "BACK" on CONSULT II to back out of "DATA MONITOR", then select "WORK SUPPORT" and "IDLE AIR VOL LEARN." NOTE: "BACK" may need to be selected more than once to get to the desired screen. 9. Press "START" and wait for the procedure to complete (usually 20 seconds to one minute). NOTE: For detailed instructions on this procedure, or if the display shows "INCMP" or if the procedure does not complete after one minute click here or refer to Attachment "A" to the print copy of this bulletin. 10.After the "IDLE AIR VOL LEARN" status shows "CMPLT", Press "BACK" on CONSULT II to back out of " IDLE AIR VOL LEARN." 11. Select "DATA MONITOR" and "SELECTIONS FROM MENU". Select the following items: • Engine Speed. • IACV-AAC/V. • Ignition Timing. • COOLAN TEMP/S. 12.Compare the current "DATA MONITOR" information with the results printed in step 7, above. • The target idle speed and ignition timing should be within the specifications shown in the chart below. • The AAC/V steps should reflect a change from the prior reading. If either condition is not met, click here or refer to Attachment "A" to the print copy of this bulletin. MODEL IDLE SPEED IGN TIMING 2000 Maxima M/T: 625±50 rpm, A/T: 700±50 rpm (in "P" or "N" position) 15°±2° BTDC 2001 Pathfinder 750±50 rpm (A/T in "P" or "N" position) 15°±2° BTDC 2000 Sentra (SR) 800±50 rpm (A/T in "P" or "N" position) 15°±2° BTDC 2000 Sentra (QG) M/T: 650±50 rpm, A/T: 800±50 rpm (in "P" or "N" position) 9°±2° BTDC 13.With the engine at operating temperature, test drive the vehicle to verify the DTC does not reset and the idle speed remains stable. 3/3 CLAIMS INFORMATION Submit a Primary Failed Part (PP) line using the following claims coding: OPERATION PFP OP CODE SYM DIA FRT Perform Idle Air Volume Learning procedure * DE96AA AF 41 0.3 hrs Diagnosis - DTC P0505 - IACV-AAC Valve EE33AA 0.4 hrs (A33) 0.5 hrs (B15/QG) 0.4 hrs (B15/SR) 0.5 hrs (R50/VQ) * Reference the appropriate Parts Catalog and use the indicated IAVC-AAC Valve Part Number as the PFP.

Definately what it is supposed to look like now.

Yes sir that would be it!

Yes. rapid flashing is an error. Usually a door or hood pin switch.

Back on topic....... Cant believe I forgot this one. I rembered it when checking out a good customers NICE Pathfinder at work on Friday. STEERING STABILIZER KIT This was an optional stabilizer on the drag link. Kit has everything needed, all hardware to mount. Easy to install too! $100 shipped to the lower 48

Anything is possible with enough time and money. But it is not just a 'swap one year dash with another' situation here. ALL of the mounting brackets and most of the guts underneath like air ducts and such not to mention glove box and isntrument cluster are different. You would have to gut your entire interior to make it work.

Gee-himiney! Did he just keep going and going till it gave up the ghost? IMHO based on what the mechanic is saying your neighbor needs to get a low milege engine from a salvage yard. He could have sleave,bearing or piston damage too. What the mechanic is talking about is 'burned valves'. A "burned valve" is a valve that has overheated and lost its ability to hold a leak-free seal. Valve burning is usually limited to exhaust valves because they run much hotter than intake valves. The diagnosis of a burned valve is usually the result of a compression test. If a cylinder shows little or no compression, it frequently means the exhaust valve is not sealing. The valve may or may not be actually burnt (melted), but have other physical damage such as warps, cracks or areas where pieces of metal are missing or eroded away from the valve face. To fix this you need to remove the cylinder head, replace the bad valve(s) and reface (or replace) the valve seat. As a rule, the head is usually given a complete valve job at the same time because the rest of the valves and guides probably need attention, too. If one exhaust valve has failed, the rest are probably on the verge of failure if they haven't already started to leak. I would be very suprised if it was just one valve only that was bad. A complete valve job parts + labor or if the heads are to badly warped; two new heads + labor (and assuming the rest of the block isnt damaged after they put it back together) will be as much if not more as just getting a good low milege motor from a salvage yard. Many reputable places offer warranties or some form, usually 6 months or even a year. Companies such as LKQ offer rebuilt/reconditioned motors with up to lifetime warranties and they deliver and at (IMHO) reasonable prices. I also very much hope it wasnt a supercharged Xterra!

Good job aHardbody! I didnt even notice the first time I looked at that pic! Still scratching my head how they got that to work......