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Everything posted by Alkorahil

  1. Alkorahil

    cutting out

    When replacing the injectors you need to replace with either blue or black. It is not good to mix and match injectors.
  2. I have known several friends and customers who have gone through many aftermarket distributors just like you are doing before getting a good one. So many of those aftermarket brands are not built or rebuilt very well. Not saying this is your exact issue but it would not surprise me either. Out of curiosity what brand is it and where did you get them?
  3. I don't have a Service Manual that goes back that far and cant find it in the archive. I can tell you on the 94 and 95 models the fuel sender unit is 1.5 ohms and the fuel gauge is 3.8-8.5 ohms full and 83.6-93.6 ohms empty.
  4. 28515-43G10 supersedes to B8515-43G85 It fits only the Pathfinder from production date 08/89 to 10/95 and Hardbody Truck from 08/89 to 08/97 with power windows and power door locks. ​The 240 amplifier is a totally different part number.
  5. The small ones with the brown sockets are Nissan P/N 24860-40F01. They are 14 Volt , 1.4 watt
  6. Here is Nissan's overly complicated part description for a pin stripe: Exterior Decoration Moulding Trim Strip Line Sticker
  7. Hi Patrick, A carburated Z24 should use part number: 15208-W1103 which changes to part number 15208-W1106 but as kingman said, part number 15208-H8990 would probably work and be ok if it was all that you had. You are correct that part number is for the old 2.0L engines.
  8. PM me your truck's VIN and all the info you can from the donar and I can help narrow things down for you.
  9. PM me directly the vehicle VIN and I can get you a quote and parts availabilty
  10. Passenger side is super easy and straight forward. Unhook the harnesses and hoses that connect to the valve cover, take a phillips screwdriver and undo the screws holding the valve cover on, being careful not to loose any of them, pull the valve cover off. remove and replce the seal.
  11. I would look at the valve cover gaskets and the rear main before the oil pan. As said above, oil can leak down from higher up and collect on teh pan, making it appear to be the pan. Nissan says it should take 5 hours. ASE standard rate that most shops use says it takes 6.6 hours.
  12. Deep down you know this was the high point of your day, if not week It is OK to admit it.
  13. I am very sorry that this happened and not pleased to hear that this happened here at all, and have let it be known. Who was it in the Service Dept that you spoke with? I am here 9-6pm M-F in the Parts Dept here. If you need something, please come see me and I will do what I can to get things done for you. You can also call me in the parts dept. I am here to help as I can.
  14. If this is a 4WD Pathfinder, that would unfortuantely be about the right amount of labor hours to remove/replace/reseal the engine oil pan. There is a lot of stuff in the way that has to be removed first, then put back on. Is he certain the leak is from the engine oil pan and not something else?
  15. It is the round black sensor about two iches to the left of the red #1. It has a wire lead coming off the top of it. In this picture the wire has been cut.
  16. In this pic it appears the leak is coming from the neutral switch.
  17. The red fluid you see collecting here is AT fluid from the transfer case. In this pic it looks like it is leaking down from the fill plug and collecting/pooling on the bolt.
  18. All of this. I like to replace the flywheel bolts because they are torqued on fairly tight, like 108 ft lbs.
  19. I have to agree with 5523Pathfinder. He beat me to the reply! I was thinking steering angle as well. I also would add, that we do not replace many ABS controllers here or get many orders for them, especially on the Pathfinder. And frp those that are ordered, it is a harness issue that ends up being the real problem.
  20. Hey guys! So here is the skinny of oil filters. First off, they change numbers alot with many interchangable part numbers for the same part because Nissan has multiple suppliers though the years. Here is the oil filter part number applications for the Nissan R50 and Infiniti JR50: 3.3L ENGINE Production dates: 01/00-07/02 Part Number: 15208-65F0C (supercession part numbers: 15208-65F00, 15208-65F0A, 15208-65F0B, 15208-65F0E) Production dates: 10/95-01/00 Part number: 15208-9E01A (supercession part numbers: 15208-9E000, 15208-31U00, 15208-31U0A, 15208-31U0B) 3.5L ENGINE Part Number: 15208-65F0C Production dates: 01/00-07/04 All this being said, the only difference between the two part numbers is that the 15208-9E01A is about 1/2 and inch longer, thus larger. The diameter and thread is the same.
  21. There are four bulbs in the AC control head. Some of them may have burt out. You can pull the unit and checkthe bulbs if you have really good eyes. OR, with it still plugged in, swap the lamps around and see if the illunination changes. If it does it is probably the bulbs. P/N 27545-1W600 LAMP ASMY, CONTROLLER I have also seen bad crimping of the wiring on the plug going into the dimmer switch cause the lamps to not work properly as well. Wiggling the connector the dimmer switch will cause dash lights to come on.
  22. Nissan upgraded them to a stouter version in 2010. All the older part numbers from Nissan supercede to that part number now. IMHO they still seem to wear though.
  23. I passed emissions inspection....the second time. First time everything was perfect except NOX was 11 points over the max at 15mph which failed and it barely pass NOX at 40 points under the max allowed at 25MPH on the dyno test. SO I popped the hood checked the timing which I hadnt done in a long time. It was at 21/22 BTDC. So I reset it to 15BTDC like it should be and re tested it. The NOX dropped 600 and 680 points and passed. As a side benefit I got more life and response from my engine I hadnt noticed had gone away I took my own advice I hand out here so much...check your timing!!!
  24. Hello there, jsut saw this. IMHO it seems like it needs a lot of work. Nothing on the list is completely out of place for an R50 that age. But IMHO For the same amount of $$ you can find one that needs less work to start with. Those part prices they quoted you are full MSRP. The diff service is a good idea and should be done, but it not critical to do immediately. The catalytic converter and rear links are a necessity. I am not a big fan of aftermarkt catalytic converters on the OBDII vehicles as they just dont seem to last as long as the OEM. But the OEM can get very pricy. Again IMHO.

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