Alkorahil

volts, oil press and oil temp guages silly!

^ Agreed. The rheostat may be failing when it gets too hot and going off and on. It maye also be a loose connection.

The Vehicle Security System (VSS) control module may be dead or the fuse to it is blown. You will need a new transponder (key fob) for that vehicle in order to see if the VSS module is working. Your local dealerer is mistaken, a close look in the computer will show that the R50 did not have a chip key until after production date 12/98. They key for your vehicle does not have an immobilizer what requires a chip key. Thus the key the locksmith did will work fine.

P1491 is not related to P1110 and P1135. P1110 and P1135 are for the left and right variable camshaft solenoids timing advance. These solenoids work off oil pressure to advance the timing of the engine. As the vehicle gets older with high miles likes yours it gets a little cranky sometimes as the oil pressure isnt as high now as it was new, this makes the ECU think the eis a problem as the soldenoids dont advance as much as the ECU expects them to. Check and change your oil if it has been awhile and make sure to change the oil at regular intervals. Changing to a 10-40 oil might help as well. P1491 is the vaccum cut valve bypass valve. It is located in the rear of the truck under the body near the top of the rear spring.

Make sure to disconnect the battery before changing the sender. Part number for the VG30E is: 25240-8996E

I put mine in where the center pocket is, under the radio.

If the master brake booster is bad and it is sucking brake fluid like that it is in the blowby hoses as well. Check those. I would look to see if some water got in somewhere when you hosed the engine off though.

IMHO flushing is not a bad idea if you refill with heap oil and filter, drive it for a day or two then drain and refill with good filer and oil to get everything out. Whenever I buy a new vehicle that I dont know the history of that well I do this.

If where the harness goes into the pressure switch is wet with oil, replace it. Otherwise try a difrferent filter next oil change. You have the right amount of oil it it yes?

RH (passenger side) has: A/T Control Unit. Front speaker Amp Rear Speaker Amp Power anntennea timer

After that check the dimmer switch.

I would take the alternator to have it tested. This sounds like a bad internal regulator on the alternator. Even if it tests fine, this sort of issue can be intermittant untill the regulator 100% fails, so it will test ok and yet still be bad. If this is the issue overcharging may damage the battery as well. The brake+battery light means there is an alternator issue of some kind. If the alternator is fine, check the harnesses, connectors and grounds for the alternator. Check the fusbile link on the positive terminal for corrosion and the negative ground harness as well. Given that the alternator is 8 years old, it may be time for a new one.

As others have said on this, a good cleaning and full tune up can do wonders for these vehicles.

How did that get that way?

The original guides were made out of hardened nylon. Nissan replaced them a few years ago with a harder material.

Check the lower control arm bushings, specifically the back one.

I took a brake bleed kit, reversed the valve and pumped it in for the transfer case and front diff...

Those decals only came with the rear quarter glass. Which is stupid.

Valve is good then.

Very true. Lots of forgeries too. Have to be careful there.

Being warranty work, you may get a survey in the mail from Nissan when the repair is done. If you have been happy with the dealership, the people you have been dealing with there and how you were treated, fill out your Nissan survey. Good scores can = $ checks directly from Nissan to the people (technicians and service writers) that assisted you. Not in the hands of the dealership owner. In addition, a written letter from you to Nissan about your positive experience can also do the same thing.

It is inline on the large hose along the firewall coming from the brake booster. It has a diaphragm in it that allows air to flow one direction but not another. It wears out over time and reduces the braking of the truck. It will make the vehicle brakes feel 'soft' when it is worn out. I have had many people take my suggestion and change it an come back and tell me they noticed a difference. It is about $15 and easy to replace.

After looking at the FSM it appears to me your problem is a faulty ignition switch or corroded/loose ignition switch connectors. Door chime, power windows, power door locks, power seats, and power sunroof all need circuits on the ignition switch to be closed to operate and the ignition relay to be good. This would also explain your intermittent cranking issue. These all also share ground M4 an M66.

Replace the MC, its not expensive. When you do replace all the brake fluid with fresh fluid. Replace your brake booster check valve too, it is old; this will also help with the spongy. Make sure your rotors and drums are within specs and the pads and shoes are within spec.

that's what I am talking about!