Alkorahil

Clean that crap up!

The white square connector is to check the rear ABS system.

The first plug with the black insualtion is the power supply for the driver side footwell lamp is your vehicle was equipt with it. XE would nto be. Usually see it on the LE grades.

That tool set you linked will probably not work for you. The tools are the same on the Pathfinder from 10/95 - 07/01. So any Pathfinder from those dates will work for you. A salvage yard would be a good place to find them. OR Part Number: 99552-01G00 MSRP is $18, your local dealer can get one if you want to go that route.

If you own a Juke or know someone how does there is an engine recall that they should do if their VIN is on the list. The parts for it are already starting to go to back-order while Nissan plays catch up on parts supply. Get it done early and avoid the wait.

Let me know how it goes with the dealer up there. I am curious what they say. Was Nissan Canada cooperative on the phone?

I am at a loss to think of any........ there are wires and gears under the seat so you dont have much room to play there dropping it down somehow, and the passenger cushion has the occupancy sensor in it so you cant mess with that cushion at all. Cutting off the bottom half of the driver cushion would be a lot of work, I am not sure if you could reattach the cover then and have it still be tight, but you might gain an inch there. Try talking to a local reputable auto upholstery shop, see if they have any experience/ideas with this.

Last time I got parts and shims was the first of the year and they were still available. Many of them came from Japan though and were a month to get them all in. I would love to sell parts, but I would tend to agree with slartibarfast on this one though. Usually finding a good/great condition used rear end and putting it on is way less time consuming and costs about the same, if you are lucky it is even less in cost than the parts. All those parts add up quickly even if it is just shims. Add a busted/chipped gear, warped axle or bad differential and the price goes up even more.

I took this picture from my back porch this morning...........

The next thing to look at after the checking the AC fuse is the AC relay. this is the most common problem related to your issue. The AC relay is on the passenger side fender in the corner near where the antennea mounts. It should be blue if it is the original relay and have the part number '25230-C9700' or just 'C9970' stamped on the side of it. You will have to remove it to see that part number on the side. That relay should also be the same for the horn if my memory is correct. check the part number on the side of it Swap them out and see if the AC comes on. If it does then you found your problem and you need a new relay. If that doesnt work.... check to make sure the system has freon. It iwll not come on if there is too much or too little freon. check the switch to make sure it is good. check the AC pressure sensor. check the AC thermister. (sometimes called a thermo amplifier) .

That hose on the link looks close but not it. What you are looking for is: P/N 11826-88G00 HOSE-BLOWBY $15.93 (Nissan List: $21.23) This hose is on the left (driver) side of the motor, the PCV valve attaches to it at the top of the intake plenum.

Also, On average you should get 3-5 years out of a car battery these days.

Very cold temps and very hot temps are not friends of car batteries. From what you said the battery would be a good candidate for your issues. If you have a dealer or shop that can do a load lest/charging test on the battery while it is in the car that would help you rule it out. check with your local Nissan dealer. The Nissan tester gives an nice printout of the battery and charging system health. Most will not charge for the test, but some will.

Its possible the old rack got something in it through the boots. I cant recall ever seeing this though. Anything is possible. I would think you would have found stuff in your fluid though as well.

If it revs up when you jump the harness but doesn't when the sensor is connected I would look into the sensor more carefully.

Yeah, injector seals can move around and not seat properly (though look like they are) if you are not paying attention. I was telling someone this yesterday who had just replaced his injectors and was having CEL issues.

for the stock Nissan bar, yes you will need them the bar mounts to the brackets, but make sure the bar is for the correct/corresponding year for your bumper and brackets.

62212-60G00 STAY-FRONT, RH 62213-60G00 STAY-FRONT, LH

What Xplorx4 and bushnut said! Make sure to work safe too! Jack stands and wheel chalks!

Could this have been a clogged cat or muffler that cleared itself out? That black you saw was soot blowing out?

Check the upper intake gasket. esp at the back. It likes to slide around and get off center when you put the intake plenum back on. That would create a 'sucking sound' and cause the vehicle to bog out.

Good write up! I would add.... If you do not rough handle the oil filter when changing the oil your seal will last longer. You should also check the bolt/stud to make sure it is properly tight when you do an oil change. Both will give you more life from this seal.

Bosch is fine. As the othere stated, it will take a while to go off on its own, or you can clear the codes and see if it comes back on.

13mpg is rather low for normal driving conditions. I am assuming your 31's on the truck are not M/T mud tires. If they are, that is the issue. You have done a tune up, that is a good start. Did you get the correct plugs? Might want to double check that to be sure and cover the bases. The next thing I would do is get a timing light and check the timing on your truck. Over years it can get off. It will run fine but get poor milege and performance. I would also consider replacing the engine coolant temp sensor and the air intake temp sensor given the age of the vehicle. Again, It will run fine but get poor milege and performance. Here are the part numbers for those sensors: 22630-ED000 ENGINE COOOLANT 22630-1S700 AIR INTAKE Other things to consider would be the front O2 sensors and maybe clogged catalytic converters.

Are the rear upper and lower control arm bushings in good shape? That can generate a thunk as the weight shifts.