Alkorahil

P1491 is not related to P1110 and P1135. P1110 and P1135 are for the left and right variable camshaft solenoids timing advance. These solenoids work off oil pressure to advance the timing of the engine. As the vehicle gets older with high miles likes yours it gets a little cranky sometimes as the oil pressure isnt as high now as it was new, this makes the ECU think the eis a problem as the soldenoids dont advance as much as the ECU expects them to. Check and change your oil if it has been awhile and make sure to change the oil at regular intervals. Changing to a 10-40 oil might help as well. P1491 is the vaccum cut valve bypass valve. It is located in the rear of the truck under the body near the top of the rear spring.

Make sure to disconnect the battery before changing the sender. Part number for the VG30E is: 25240-8996E

I put mine in where the center pocket is, under the radio.

If the master brake booster is bad and it is sucking brake fluid like that it is in the blowby hoses as well. Check those. I would look to see if some water got in somewhere when you hosed the engine off though.

IMHO flushing is not a bad idea if you refill with heap oil and filter, drive it for a day or two then drain and refill with good filer and oil to get everything out. Whenever I buy a new vehicle that I dont know the history of that well I do this.

If where the harness goes into the pressure switch is wet with oil, replace it. Otherwise try a difrferent filter next oil change. You have the right amount of oil it it yes?

RH (passenger side) has: A/T Control Unit. Front speaker Amp Rear Speaker Amp Power anntennea timer

The connectors were messing with the signal to the ECU because the resistance was different. The lady also took pictures to show the insurance company. I am sure they will find that repair job interesting.

More goodies from the shop! This is a 2014 Nissan Altima that had been in a front end collision and repaired at a body shop across town, it appears they did a few shortcuts. The customer brought it in complaining that it would stall on her and act erratic. She had never looked under the hood of her car because THIS was very obvious to anyone who looked: Someone simply 'repaired' the main harness instead of replacing it after the collision. Remember: when it comes to cars, 'cheap' often costs more in the end.

The nerve of some people........... this guy called for an alternator for his vehicle. Customer: Do you have an alternator for a Nismo 350z? Me: It is $400 plus $75.00 core. This is not a reman unit. Customer: Oh, Can you see if Autozone has it cheaper? Me: No. Customer: Oh ok well let me think about it. <hangs up>

After that check the dimmer switch.

I would take the alternator to have it tested. This sounds like a bad internal regulator on the alternator. Even if it tests fine, this sort of issue can be intermittant untill the regulator 100% fails, so it will test ok and yet still be bad. If this is the issue overcharging may damage the battery as well. The brake+battery light means there is an alternator issue of some kind. If the alternator is fine, check the harnesses, connectors and grounds for the alternator. Check the fusbile link on the positive terminal for corrosion and the negative ground harness as well. Given that the alternator is 8 years old, it may be time for a new one.

As others have said on this, a good cleaning and full tune up can do wonders for these vehicles.

How did that get that way?

The original guides were made out of hardened nylon. Nissan replaced them a few years ago with a harder material.

We ended up getting the center panel guy to call us. He needed a console lid. I guess it is kind of a panel.....

I got to talk for a while with a guy with a 92 Hardbody 4X4 MT. It was red. Super clean engine bay and interior. I told him I was envious of his interior. He said he bought it new and it was garage kept. It was a nice change from the normal here.

Check the lower control arm bushings, specifically the back one.

I took a brake bleed kit, reversed the valve and pumped it in for the transfer case and front diff...

Those decals only came with the rear quarter glass. Which is stupid.

Which center panel though?

Got this wodnerful email this morning: I have a 2004 model. I need the part center panel.

Valve is good then.

Very true. Lots of forgeries too. Have to be careful there.

LOL The only way you can 'rent' a part here is to bring it back unused in the original packaging with your invoice. Also known as a return.