Alkorahil

Agreed. manual, power, heated; They will all mount to your vehicle. power, heat, etc working is a different matter.

I am glad to see you got it done!!

We had an xterra in the shop here last week for this same thing, the front gasket for the pipe had corroded over the years and had started leaking. It made a big mess of coolant everywhere.

Check the blower fuse as well!

Here are the part numbers for the upper and lower bushings: PART NUMBER: 55046-0W001 BUSH-REAR, UPPER $10.16 EA QTY NEEDED: 4 PART NUMBER: 55045-0W023 BUSH-REAR, LOWER $18.13 EA QTY NEEDED: 4 I see you are in a rust prone area. Check the arms to make sure they are in good shape as well as the bolts. If they look questionable you may want to consider replacing the entire arms which include the bushings in them already: PART NUMBER: 55120-2W100 LINK COMP, UPPER $106.44 EA QTY NEEDED: 2 PART NUMBER: 55110-3W700 LINK COMP, LOWER, RH $75.93 PART NUMBER: 55111-3W700 LINK COMP, LOWER, LH $75.93

Did the fuel lines make it in yet?

Trademotion is a company that partnered with Nissan to provide parts websites to all the Nissan dealers. They also do it for ford, GM, Honda, Suabru, etc. thus the sites have a similar build. Courtesy paid to ahve their site built in the early 90's when the internet was just starting up, thus it looks, interfaces and is built differently. The part numebrs they give are so that you cannot use them to look up the part you need, then go somewhere else and buy it. With the numbers on their site, the first five given are correct and identify what sort of part it is, the last five are their internal numbers.

Yep! So much fun.............. the things that cross my path.

As others have said already, sounds like a thermostat stuck open, thus no heat and a low temp reading on the guage.

Remove the cap, then remove the lock washer and the bearing lock nut. After removing the bearing lock nut you should be looking at the outer bearing. remove the outerbearking carefully and place it somewhere clean. remove the hub, the inner bearing will probably come off the spindle with the hub, be careful it doenst drop on the ground when removing the hub.

Remember when using it that it does not show accessories and does not show all part number changes, supercessions and service files, just what the part numbers were originally.

Naughty, naughty people Mr. Nissan might get mad. LOL

I feel so......

Do you hear this noise inside the vehicle or only from the outside or both? Does the fuel guage work properly?

Yep that is correct. We even got a memo from the distrubutor/manufacturer about this last year. About a week after we had put some in Apparently the fluid originates in Europe and was being distributed/resold here until the DOT got wind of it and said no no no and made them yank it. DOT rules say it must be clear so that if it is dirty you can tell.

Holy cow! 21060-6P00A FAN, COOLING $98.60 21082-6P00A COUPLING, FAN $148.29 21051-4P110 PULLEY-FAN $43.80 21046-4W000 BRACKET-FAN $71.76 08226-62010 STUD, PULLY QTY NEEDED: 4 $1.24 EA 01225-00751 NUT, PULLEY QTY NEEDED: 4 $0.76 EA I priced everything as I am not sure what sheered/broke in the process. I think you may have had the fan pully bracket spindle break. Take a close look and see it thats where it came apart. I have seen that happen once or twice on vehicles here. This didnt damage your radiator or belts as well did it? ,

So sorta rules that out.....

If they just used a generic universal harness adaptor to connect the factory harness to the new head unit it will only power the front speakers without doing the amp bypass. Please dont hack and splice your factory harnesses. It will come back to haunt you.

Agreed. More than likely the tank check valve. It will do it more often, louder and for a longer period of time when the tank gets close to empty. It is annoying but not the end of the world.

Sounds like you found the engine bay grounds. The interior and body grounds are behind the front left and right kick panels. Black wire with a eyelet held to the body with a phillips scew.

Your mode actuator is dead/malfunctioning. Not a totally uncommon thing for a 2005-2009 Pathfinder.

As others have alrady stated, that is the first place to start to rule it out as a problem. It is inexpenise to replace them and with the vehicle being 18 years old, probably needs them anyways at that age! After you repalce them, you might need to realign it again.

the remote for the DVD system on the R51 is: PART NUMBER: 28267-5Z000 DESCRIPTION: SWITCH ASSY, REMOTE $78.75 (NISSAN LIST: $136.08) on the back is stamped: M4C477072C which I would guess is some sort of model number from the supplier.

You need to do an amp bypass. Do a search on here for that topic. The original radio system had two amps, the one built into the radio powered the fronts, behind the passenger side rear panel is the amp for the rear. It will say 'Clarion' on it.

Emmisions light? Do you mean the yellow Check Engine light?