Alkorahil

Thats what it says! Now you have me wondering....

Two of us can pick one up with little strain in the shipping crate.

Rob says...... D0160-0W025 JOINT ASM, BALL, LOWER $62.91 each Includes a new lower castle nut and cotter pin. Being up north might I also suggest the three piece bolt to attach the ball joint to teh lower control arm and the nuts for those bolts if they are rusted: 40179-1C10A THREE-BOLT $11.08 each qty needed:2 08912-8421A NUT $0.90 each qty needed:6

Here is what Nissan gives us for the shipping weight for those parts: MT: 132 LBS AT: 187 LBS TRANSFER: 124LBS

Get them while you can!

Yes it does. It is a tight fit, those o rings are beefy. HINT: a stock Nissan master cylinder will come with the res and a new cap. every after market one I have seen for these trucks does not come with it.

Not sure which one you are needing, here is the part info for the front ones: PART NUMBER: 46210-31G11 DESCRIPTION: HOSE BRAKE, RH $18.24 PART NUMBER: 46211-31G11 DESCRIPTION: HOSE BRAKE, LH $20.06 Passenger side I can have in my hands in 2 days, driver side will take about 2-3 weeks but both show still available! Those are the Nissan part numbers, you can take them to your local dealer and see if they can come up with anything.

This sounds like a distributor problem to me......... But it should do it in LPG too....... thinking along that line though, perhaps a VTC problem you are having maybe as the ECU advances or retards the timing for petrol vs LPG? What is the engine type in the vehicle?

Nissan actually bought a bunch of Axxess back from owners because it was such a wonderful vehicle.

YES The only thing worse is/was the Nissan Axxess.

As stated above WD21 ones will work. So will V6 Hardbody trucks. (not 4cyl) The WD22 Xterra one will fit. Had one on mine for awhile a few years ago. Its been awhile now but I recall there was one minor thing different....but I cant remember what it was. In any ways it fit.

When I saw the first pic and that Nissan Van.....my mind did this: http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x291/alkorahil/ws3761_zpse878dbca.jpg

P0443 is the evil Evaporation Purge Valve. It is not exactly 'uncommon' on the 1996-1998 Pathfinder. We saw a huge spike in this code popping up once these vehicles hit about 10 years old. The problem is actually the reactive charcoal in the Evaporation Cannister breaking down and clogging up the valve or simply tearing the valve inside the control valve up. The Evaporative Cannister and the Control Valve are sold as two seperate parts. In short, you need to replace both. Please do not replace just the control valve, the bad cannister will just tear it up and you will probably be buying the valve again and the cannister. The good news is Nissan now supplies an updated cannister that fixes this problem. They bad news is both parts are a little pricy IMHO. There are a few threads on here about this issue.

Yes that is correct! It can be 'stuck' sending a constant voltage (instead of fluctuating voltage) to the ECU that is within the nominal readings the ECU is looking for. Thus the ECU wont trip the CEL.

Agreed

Yep that is correct! PART NUMBER: 11926-4W00A DESCRIPTION: BRACKET-IDLER PULLY, 3.5L $38.52 (NISSAN LIST: $70.47)

Sounds like you are on the right track. I would add that you could also have air trapped in the cooling system. The FSM tells how to properly bleed the coollant system. Old or improperly mixed ratio coolant could also cause some problems. But going back to what others have said already on this...thermostat was by first reaction when i saw the thread title and the low ambient outside temperatures I am guessing that you have in Sweden in winter keep the truck running colder than the stock thermostat was intended for.

Looks like stalker is ready to go anywhere!

WASHED IT! (it rained all day)

Many people have posed that hose leaking when it gets cold and the old rubber contracts. Usually tightening the clamps down tighter fixes the problem. Find out what the CEL codes stores in teh ECU are and we can try to figure it out for you.

For high NOX issues: 1) change the oil 2) 87 octane gasoline - no additives in the tank like octane boosters, seafoam or injector cleaner! 3) before you have it inspected, make sure it is well warmed up. Drive it around at highways speeds 60+mph for at least 15 minutes before taking it to be inspected. 4) make sure your spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor are all good. 5) make sure your ignition timing is correct. 6) make sure your coollant level is good and the coolant isnt old. (test it) 7) make sure your engine air filter is good. This will give you a good baseline to determine if the problem is either: 1) EGR Valve 2) O2 sensor However, based on the low HC and CO numbers posted above I would say the problem is O2 sensor. Everytime I have seen numbers like those posted, replacing the O2 sensor fixes the problem.

I dont think it is the distributor. If it was the outside temp wouldnt be symptomatic, and it would stall on you when you decelerate, say at a stop light, or floor it suddenly. It would also not want to start randomly either with the engine cold or warmed up.