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patqx4

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  • Posts

    233
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patqx4 last won the day on September 26 2016

patqx4 had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    QX4
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    Other/Unknown
  • Year
    2002

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Halifax, NS
  • Country
    Canada

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patqx4's Achievements

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  1. I currently have 1 Rockford and 1 $10 generic. Both inners, never replaced an outer.
  2. I've had them on for over 2 years and yes my 4wd light comes on after 15 minutes of unlocked driving.
  3. Yes, they are only held on by plastic pop rivets. Remove the inner wheel liner, and squeeze/ push them out from the back. Only downside is there will be holes in your fenders.
  4. Any link to a build thread for the Jeep?
  5. Great work! I really like the swing away, very nicely done. Now grab a grinder and cut those u bolts down!
  6. I thought about doing that too, I smashed up that muffler as well offroading. The damn thing hangs so low. I think if you did that you would have to replace the back resonator with an actual muffler, because without the middle one its loud, like straight piped Harley loud.
  7. Haha, that is frickin awesome! So simple yet so effective. I think I'm going to try to build one just like yours. Thanks for sharing that!
  8. This is only my opinion, but I think any strut top spacer without a matching sfd is too much. I have ome 1.75" lift springs, and I also had 1" top spacers installed for a year and a half. In that time I had to replace 5 cv boots, (including 2 Rockford thermoplastic ones) and my hubs are unlocked on the road most of the time. I also had to use 2 sets of cam bolts to make my camber acceptable, and was always leery of that. Since removing the top spacers these issues are gone, and I think it's not surprising, the front end is only designed to move within the travel of the strut. By lengthening it you're pushing other parts farther than they were engineered to go. I know people will disagree with me but that's my thoughts and experience.
  9. I'd like to see that smoke rig you made, a $12 pack of cigarettes beats a $1300 equipment!
  10. Haha I've seen that too, they take a drag off a cigarette then blow it into a vacuum line. I would try it with a blunt but then I'd probably forget what I was doing.
  11. Yeah it idles around 750, just drops down when it's in gear which is normal. I have 2 evap codes currently, p0455+p1448. Torque says gross leak. All the plumbing is in tact. I plan on testing the vent valve when I get a chance. It's tough to find evap leaks and vacuum leaks without a smoke machine.
  12. OK, I guess the mounts are fine. There's no problems with gear shifts, the only thing going on is a rough idle around 600rpm, the only time it's that low is stopped in gear when warm. I think there might be a vacuum leak somewhere.
  13. Hi, I'm having a rough idle problem only when stopped in gear, like at a red light with my foot on the brake. The truck seems to shudder and vibrate excessively, especially the exhaust, when looking at it (in drive, wheels chocked) the pipe coming from the drivers side catalytic converter vibrates more than the passenger side pipe. Google has made me think that bad motor mounts may be the culprit. I shot this video revving the engine in drive and reverse while standing on the brake. The motor seems to have a lot of movement, but I'm not sure if it's excessive, or just a normal amount of movement. I'm open to other suggestions for a probable cause as well. Thanks for reading!
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