Simon

Thank jeebus!

I used Quaker State, Valvoline, Motomaster, Amsoil, Mobil1, Castrol, and many others and NONE of them would stay in my old truck (RMS leak) and one of them caused it. I'm going to blame the oil, for sure. It's amazing the conclusions people will jump to when something goes wrong with their vehicle. Blaming oil companies for engines falling apart or being built incorrectly is a stretch.

I use Royal Purple or Amsoil, though, will most likely be sticking to Royal Purple as the X seems to respond a little better with it. I change my filter at 4-5000kms and the oil at 8-10,000kms. That said, I agree with B, you can put just about anything in, with just about any filter, and as long as it's the right weight, and is relatively fresh, it won't make a whole hell of a lot of difference.

FAIL Spotana98, don't worry about it man, even though I, and I'm sure others, are having a good laugh at this, we've all failed from time to time. Check out, (and maybe add this story to) the Self-Depreciation Alley thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3050&st=0&p=23280&hl="Self%20Depreciation%20Alley"&fromsearch=1entry23280

You can stick a screwdriver in one of the holes, and tap it backwards to thread it out. You can do the same to reinstall, just don't overtighten the bearings

What you're missing is this. With our IFS design, there's approximately 6" of wheel travel. At stock height, the suspension is set up at the halfway mark. So you have 3" of up travel, and 3" of downtravel. When you crank the torsion bars to lift the front end, you're simply changing the preload within that range of travel. So, basically, after lifting 2" you would have 1" of downtravel, and 5" of up travel. The shocks never change the range of motion, nor does the front suspension. It simply starts out at a different point than it would if it were stock.

XPLORx4 did this repair, though, I can't seem to find his thread, which, wouldn't really matter, as all his pics are gone now. Maybe try sending him a PM to see how he did it. If I remember correctly, he did torch out the old bushings.

He may not have had the upper mounts re-welded on when it was relocated for his body lift. The ARB is strong, as I winched a bunch with it, even modified, and had no issues. I can't help but be skeptical of MuphDivin's story of ripping the winch OUT of the bumper. Doesn't make sense.

See if you can tighten down the screws a bit. It's not uncommon for them to come loose. Don't go overtight though, as you'll just put pinch points in the valve cover and gasket

My apologies.

Don't you have a parking lot to wheel?

I have 15x8's on the X with 33x12.5R15's No issues.

It's possible the wire for the sending unit has pulled out, and is sitting and rubbing on the frame. Happened in my first Pathfinder.

Another vote for stock, with a new flywheel. CF clutches are fantastic for high power applications, where you're NOT abusing the clutch (slipping). Stock clutches seem to take this abuse better than any aftermarket "high-performance" models.

Dammit man, both my Pathy's had chrome!!! What are you trying to say? I know it was in jest, just need to knock B down a peg or two every now and then. I can't let him take a shots at me, without firing back. It's all in good fun. edit: I realize I forgot to put in a smiley to show my sarcasm/joking. I'll add it to avoid further confusion.

Nice choice of trucks. They're beautiful vehicles. I wonder if B was referencing me with this statement? Traitor I may be, but poser not so much. When you have taken your truck off pavement, even once, you can try to talk crap. My "poser" truck has seen more trail time in 6 months of my ownership, than both your Pathfinders in all the time you've owned them.

X2 Used to happen on my first 95 all the time. The MAF wiring sucks.

That's right. They're not interchangeable. The 05+ Nissan trucks use a 6 on 4.5" bolt pattern, the older ones use a 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern.

Pezzy's drivetrain is stock. No locker or other modifications. 99% driver, 1% truck.

Which it's not. It intakes up in the wheelwell above the tire. The resonator box and related crap sits low on the front corner. For aftermarket support, the X for sure. For capability, who cares. It's 99% driver. For reliability VG or VQ are both fantastic motors. There have been more reports of issues on the VQ on this forum (mostly power valve screws) but there are just as many high mileage VQ's in the world as VG's. The steering on a WD21 Pathfinder, or WD22 Xterra sucks one way or another. If you have aftermarket, stronger parts, you'll replace them less often, but you'll replace them. For the R50, the steering is STRONG. The unibody on the R50 is quite robust, though, look for rust on anything you'd be looking to purchase. Body rust on a unibody affects structure, so make sure she's solid.

well, if there's chipping on the pulley, is it on the insde or outside lip? If it's the inside, maybe it's hitting the timing cover?

150 should be plenty. I'm not sure of correct torque spec on the bolt, but I'm sure that's over. Try a bit of locktight on the bolt. The bolt shouldn't come loose, and I've never really heard of it happening on a Pathfinder. If your HB is coming apart, there'll be looseness between the outer pulley, and the inner hub, as the rubber wears away.

I had mine up there for a short period of time, and it was a pain in the ass. Stick with the tire carrier. IF you ever have to change a tire on a trail, you'll be thankful for it.

Check to see if your t-case shifter is moving in unison with your 5speed shifter. If so, then it's a mount or 2 that are shot. If not, then it's something worn out in the tranny.

You can get one by PM'ing Rob ( Alkorahil) above you. He works at a dealer, and, as his sig suggests, is our resident "Nissan Parts Pimp"