Simon

You might be able to if you ran stock offset. With those rims, no shot.

I rarely take my truck into a mechanic for service, as I do 99% of stuff myself. That said, if I did have to take it to a mechanic it would be a Nissan dealership with which I have a good rapport, and we all share a contact (Morpheus). I'd rather have the dealership look at my truck than some mechanic who specializes in nothing. That said, my father has had excellent luck with a couple of independent shops in the past, and wouldn't hesitate to use them again. I think, as with anything, there's good and bad. Some dealerships earn the reputation of being "stealerships" while other will provide you with great service at fair prices. Bottom line: Find a mechanic you trust, dealership or otherwise, and don't let go.

Yep, the key in ignition could be the cause of your central locking issue. It's meant as a failsafe against locking your keys in your car.

Looks like there's a body lift on it.

VG33's are interference motors. Essentially the same design as the VG30 in a WD21.

Also sounds like either the timing belt skipped a tooth, or was replaced incorrectly. Ignition timing isn't always a good indicator of valve timing.

93+ automatics are buttonless. They key release still exists in the manual tranny trucks.

Brake and ABS light is typically due to an air bubble in the system. Gravity bleed the lines, and then do a full bleed, and it should go away.

Happy Birthday guys!

Good luck, Slick. Hope to see you back online soon.

My pockets Left side front - wallet, small pocket knife. right side front - keys and gum I don't put anything in my back pockets, as I don't like sitting on anything. Since I quit smoking, my right side feels so much lighter not having smokes and a lighter in that pocket as well.

2 Nissans that wheel.

WD22 Xterra/D22 Frontier wheels will fit a WD21, though, will have less offset than Legos (sit deeper in the wheelwell). If you're looking at the 2005+ Xterra rims, they will not fit. Bolt pattern and center bore are different.

Pezzy's got a Warn M8000 and has had no problems with it whatsoever, through some hard pulls. She even bought hers used. I'm not sure why others are having issues with theirs.

It's not a hub. It doesn't engage and disengage. It's a fully engaged drive flange. That's why it's got the dust cap on it.

Double check all your grounds as well.

Make sure it's not your exhaust pipe broken over the rear axle. It can break there, and shoot hot exhaust fumes at the floor of the truck, causing your carpet to melt/burn in the cargo area.

Try leaving the key in the on position (not start) for 5 seconds before cranking, and see if it starts faster. It could be a pinhole leak in the fuel lines causing the fuel system to lose pressure while sitting, which the fuel pump has to make up before providing sufficient fuel to the injectors.

Try National 4wd. They can probably get them for you, though, it may not be much cheaper than buying in the US and having them shipped.

I've now received the e-mail 3 different times. Persistent bastards they are!

I got the same e-mail, though, I had written if off as spam. It was some time yesterday and I actually got the same message from 2 different people within the company.

It's a combination of things. PRice point being the biggest. The fact that, fully equipped, there would have been very little to entice a buyer to pay more for a Pathfinder if the same motor would have been available in either vehicle. The VQ is a very reliable motor as well, with plenty of them in the 300-400k range. Remember, VQ owners don't have to tear the front of the motor off every 60-100k miles for "maintenance" like the VG owners do.

A TB spacer is total BS, especially on an MPFI motor. If it was a TBI motor, they MIGHT increase power a little.

Ahh, I figured as much on the pin. Nice work.