Simon

On my 95, I was trying to do a brake job, and found that the pins on my drivers side, front wheel were seized. I managed to get the bracket off the knuckle that has the pins on it, where the caliper bolts onto (previously I'm sure someone used an impact gun to bolt it on, and it was a PITA to get loose). I couldn't free up the pins no matter what I tried (hammering, clamping, put into vise, tried with a pipe wrench to twist). I tried to lubricate with WD40, with no luck. If anyone has any tips/tricks to free them up, I'd be able to clean up the pins, and reinstall. Any thoughts? :help:

Ha ha.....Mustang. F'd on Race Day Sorry, had to throw that one in there!!!

That was my thinking too. Shouldn't vibrate unless somethings warped (either rotor/drum or rim) or something's loose (bushing, ball joint, tie rod, center link). I've never heard of a change in tire size causing vibration.

I have them and I like them. It's nice to open the window a bit in the rain and not get wet, and on the highway, with the windows open a bit, it helps with noise. Although, I do find that they create a little more wind noise with the windows closed, but nothing that turning the stereo up a bit won't cure!!!

Could it be the bolts on the front that are mentioned in the "common problems/fixes" sticky on the top of the forums? Based upon the fact that if you turn left, it does it, then if you turn left again, it doesn't, that would mean that any movement would have happened on the first turn. Sounds like it to me. Anyways, it's a 10 minute fix. Just tighten the 2 bolts as mentioned in the sticky. Good luck

I had a problem with that sound, only once, and it was after I had switched out of 4Hi, back into 2WD. But I got out, and walked beside the truck as my friend rolled it slowly forward, and it turns out that one of my hubs wasn't fully disengaging. I put it back into 4HI, then disengaged again, and all was well. Maybe the dealer is trying to hose you out of 2G's when all you need is new hubs? Just a thought.

Hmmm...... Sevendust Slipknot Disturbed Shinedown Earshot I have something like 80 CD's in my truck right now.......rotating as necessary!!

Does anyone know exactly when the automakers had to switch over to he R134a coolant?

Hold on....you gapped the Bosch Platinum +4's ?!?!? I don't think you're supposed to gap them. They're pregapped at the factory as far as I know. that could be the problem.

Yeah, I can get it into 4Lo, but then the shift handle blocks the left cupholder, but it will go into 4Lo. No big deal, still have the right hand side one if I'm wheelin'. Not that a drink wouldn't end up all over the truck on a trail!!!

I have one in my 95 SE, manual tranny, that I got at Wal Mart that holds 2 cups and fits right in between the manual shifter, and the center console, right on the floor. Works great, and looks almost stock, because it fits in so tight. The name on it is "Spill Master"

I had the common rear end sag on my 95SE and replaced the rear coils with Moog Cargo coils. They're variable rate, and quite a bit stiffer than stock. There was no need to replace shocks at the time. Basically, if you do the bounce test on the back of your Pathy (bounce the back a few times, and release) and it stops bouncing after 1-1.5 times, then your shocks are okay. Just need new coils to replace the sagging ones. They're cheap. I got mine for about $90 CDN Good luck

88Path, Windstar? I don't think so. I'm quite sure that's actually made by Ford. The one you're referring to is the Mercury Villager. 100% a Nissan Quest (other than badging) Unless, of course, they named it differently in the U.S than they did in Canada.

Yeah, my '95 has that, and it's great. Personally, when loading mine up (hockey equpment, baseball equipment, guitars etc) I always use the glass, and never bother opening up the tire carrier, and the door. It's very convenient, especially when you are picking someone up, and they're loading stuff, you can just pop the glass with the switch on the console. Just my .02

You can also try to figure out the outputs from the amps in the rear quarter panel, and splice into them, but it's time consuming, and you'll still have to get wires from the new deck, to the rear quarter, so it's easiest to run new wires. Run a little heavier guage as well, to accomodate higher wattage amp, and, possibly in the future, speakers. Also, you MUST get crossovers for the front tweeters or you will blow them if you turn up your stereo. That's because the crossover for them is in the amp. Good luck.

Try checking your terminals on your battery to ensure that they're tight. These things are VERY sensitive to correct voltage, and I know when my negative terminal had somehow wiggled itself a little loose, I had the same problem as you're describing. Could also check that you didn't get the ignition wires wet when you hosed off the engine. The one from the coil to the distributor would be my bet, if any. Good luck

That's weird. when I bought my 95, (used) it had 2 tools under the back seats for the spark plugs. One was longer than the other, and I didn't even notice them the first time I did plugs..... The next time, I used them, and #6 was no problem. Maybe I just got lucky, but I take mine out every now and then, to check/clean them, and I haven't had many problems.

Basically, as I see it, there's no need for profanity when discussing our Pathfinders. Sure, we all get angry at certain design flaws (No. 6 Spark Plug location!!!!!) or dealer/mechanic problems, but as we've done so far, we can always say S%*t without actually typing it out. It just looks better if guest come on here swearing isn't the first thing they see (cuz it seems to jump off the page). As long as people aren't directing obscenities at each other, to me, it's okay, but I don't see a need to go through the trouble of changing the policies to allow curse words to go through.

My 95 SE gets about 420-450Kms on a full tank which I guess is acceptable given that it's got 31X10.50X15" tires. My dad's Exploder gets about the same, and he's got little 235x75x15" on it, and he babies it. I drive a lot harder and get the same mileage, so I'm pretty happy considering. I found that the Platinum +4's helped, as well as the K&N filter. Though, the cold weather here has hurt it a little.

The amp and sub is where your problem will be. Because you're running through the stock amps, you don't have to turn your volume up on your deck very high, to have it fairly loud in your truck. When you wire up your sub, you won't have a high enough signal from your deck to your amp to make the sub loud enough. The only way, that I can think of, to remedy that, is to bypass the stock amps, and run using your decks amplifiers, then the signal to your Subwoofer's amp will be as it should be. I was going to leave mine wired through the stock amps, until I ran into the same problem.

it probably is....but you could also just buy the torsion bars, and get some Ford F-150 coils for the rear lift, or Jeep Grand Cherokee coils. They both will give you added lift in the rear, and are MUCH cheaper than new ones.....check local scrapyards. Then, with the new torsion bars, you'll be able to crack them up to level out the front. Whether you get the kit or not, you'll need an alignment afterwards, so the new A-arms may, or may not be worth it. It also depends on how good, or bad, your current shocks are... I know Jim has the Calmini torsion bars in his Pathy, and he's said he likes them.

I believe this is the resistor problem that Denis had a write up/instructions for. If that is the case, it should be a real easy repair, and only cost a few dollars.

I've fit all kinds of stuff in my Pathy before. On separate occasions...I've fit a stove, a washing machine, a dryer, and got the door closed on all occasions. I've fit a drum kit, guitar amp, bass amp, and P.A system (it was REALLY tight) in there. With the rear seats folded down flat, they have a surprising amount of space.....just not that high, as I couldn't fit a high back love seat in there. Oh well, that's the one and only way my dad's Ford Exploder has my Pathy beat!!!