Simon

Agreed on trying a gravity bleed. I had an issue after replacing a caliper where my brake and ABS lights were on, and I had NO pedal pressure. No amount of "standard" bleeding seemed to help. I ended up gravity bleeding in order, and the issue sorted itself out.

MT's and hard pack or ice DO NOT mix. You may as well be rolling on marbles.

Your issue could be the electrical connections on top of the sending unit at the fuel tank. They get corroded over the years, and start to short out. I had to replace the sending unit on both of my Pathfinders because of this issue. There should be an access panel for it under the carpet in the cargo area.

I did one in my X a few months back. Rockauto even with shipping and duty was cheaper than I could get it anywhere in Canada.

The WD21 ARB bumper doesn't have separate mounts. They're integrated into the bumper. That said, I, along with a few others, successfully relocated their ARB bumpers after a body lift, so fabbing up a couple of mounts should be relatively easy. The big thing is to tie into the frame at 2 points, in order to distribute the load if you're going to winch or recover using the bumper. Otherwise, it can "peel" down if it's only mounted low. This thread has a bunch of pics of the mounts for the WD21 ARB. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26160-arb-pictures/?p=480700&hl=%20arb%20%20bumper&fromsearch=1

I've merged the 2 topics, and moved the 1 left into the general forums. As for leaving, don't bother. If you enjoy it here, stick around, offer help, and participate like you always have. Pathfinder ownership isn't a prerequisite......at least......that's what I keep telling myself.

Make sure your engine grounds are good, and that the distributor ground is attached. It could be whoever did the work forgot to re-attach it.

Personally, I'd go with the complete arms. For $200 you can't go wrong.

Great work Steevo!

Split off the gun posts into their own thread.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34532-ruger-1022-split-from-grandpaxs-87-twin-turbo-thread/

I've also got a 1000w inverter, and it's installed on the back of the rear seats. I've run 2awg wire, both positive and negative, from the battery, through a 100a marine breaker, to the rear of the truck. I'm quite sure the instructions on mine called for wiring right back to the battery. At any rate, that was the best spot I could find to mount it. Mine, however, has a remote on/off switch (I've yet to install it in the X, but I had it in my WD21). If yours has that option, as well, you could theoretically mount it anywhere, and run a power bar in your center console, or other convenient location.

It's possible the crank angle sensor or camshaft position sensor is throwing causing your no start condition. Check your codes. Your spark timing could be way off due to either of those sensors failing. If you throw a timing light on it while you crank, see if it's in range.

RedPath88 has been, though I believe there was a donation from a member here as well. Running costs are far less than they used to be since the move off IPBHOST servers.

RedPath88 and Pezzy are the site Admin. Moderators most often online are myself, Precise1 and nunya.

Lol. Reading is key. I didn't see it in the original post, and I skimmed the responses. I fail.

Bypass the factory cooler if you haven't already. Chances are that's why your original transmission failed. Buy the biggest cooler you can find, and hook the lines up to it. Plug the factory ones in the rad.

Replace all the plugs at the fusible links. On one of my trucks, I ended up hacking them all off, and wiring to the + terminal with a marine style hookup. https://www.fishntech.com/jr_battery_terminals.php

Awesome work Steve!

I'm not 100% certain, obviously. But it just REALLY looks like it, and I seem to recall the same issues with Packie88's truck. I could be way off...

His WD21, I believe, is SAS'd and, I'm also assuming, used to belong to Packie88. Not exactly daily driver friendly.

Yeah, the 2000-2004 is very similar in configuration and design to the WD21 Pathfinders. They're good trucks, if a little slow, and thirsty. But overall they're very reliable. The 2005+ Xterras have proven to be reliable as well, but with a few more issues, some of which could be quite serious. If you're looking used, make sure there's no engine noise, sounding like a rattle. This is typically the timing chain guides are worn due to oil starvation. The repairs for which is very expensive. Other than that, the automatic versions had some issues with rads leaking internally into the transmission cooler (or vice versa) and coolant would end up in the transmission, essentially killing it. The solution here is an external transmission cooler, bypassing the stock one. Just be sure to check the transmission fluid of any perspective purchase, and make sure the transmission shifts properly. Otherwise, they have WAY more power than a WD21, better mileage, and would be more than capable of filling the needs you've outlined.

Drill it out, and use a nut and bolt. It'll work fine. I'm not sure if the newer dizzy will work on your truck or not.

That's terrible news.

Keep the Tx10. Unless you're going with crawler gears there's no point in changing it out. They're a good case. The WD22 came with them as well, so if your donor is an Xterra, you're good to go.

Yeah, everyone has got you covered here pretty much. The + to the WD22 are better aftermarket support, (still nothing on Jeep or Toyota) a frame (and this one isn't swiss cheese) and the feel of a WD21. It drives very much like my WD21 Pathfinders did. For the R50, it's way more comfortable on the road, though, I hate the seats. It's got coil suspension, which I always see as a plus. Flex out of the box. Pezzy has wheeled her R50 anywhere the WD22's in our club have gone.