Simon

I have questions...... 1) How will a steering stabilizer increase the life of the steering system and/or make it stronger? The stabilizer does not help support the ball joints in any of the components at all. If, for instance, the passenger side tire hits a rock or other obstacle hard enough, or repeatedly, the ball joints on that side will all take the hit. The stabilizer MAY cushion the shock from the other side of the truck, that I'd even debate, as vibration, like anything, will take the path of least resistance. It can't do anything more, logically. The only thing a stabilizer does is mask steering problems. This is why I'm generally against them. 2) Introducing bent components into the steering system is asking for trouble IMHO. The steering system is designed to run in straight lines. Lifting creates "bends" in the system, which creates leverage, which screws up the stock centerlink. I can see how this CL will resist those forces better, as there's no "dogbone" to leverage up, causing the twisting, but the 2wd inner ends with the bend will become a weak point. I can see those folding up even worse than WD22 tie rods do. I don't see how this design is not just a matter of relocating the problem?

I'd have to trace it, but I believe it gets power directly from the battery. How are his connections/terminals there?

He said it was the first time in 200K that he's had a rad issue. I wouldn't consider that "blowing up rads"

If there's no motor issues don't touch the motor. I don't know why that was suggested. FOr 200k, I'd just go with another stock one. I think you'd be hard pressed to find anything else that will last that long, aftermarket or not. Also, if you Q is Auto, your tranny cooler is inside the rad. Keep that in mind if you look to buy aftermarket.

X2 Pezzy's wheeled hers for years, and I've only ever replaced 1 inner, and 1 outer tie rod end on her R50. If there's no play, leave them alone.

Easy conversion: US MPG = 235 ÷ E E = The rating /100kms in metric. So, for instance, 10L/100KM 235 ÷ 10 = 23.5mpg

Have you checked your motor mounts? Torque increases when in 4lo, which can cause the motor/transmission to jump wildly if you've got a mount broken. That can put tears in the intake tube, and cause the issues you're describing. In some cases it might even stall. Pay attention to your shifters when in park and you rev the motor. IF they seem to move too far to the right, that'd be a motor mount.

By "hubs" they mean locking hubs for the 4x4 system. The R50 has fully engaged drive splines from the factory. A set of Warn hubs will disengage the front end when 4x4 is not in use, and stop the CV's and front diff from spinning needlessly.

He said no MIL (Same as CEL) Out of curiosity, if you turn it off, and start it right away, does the problem still happen? Or only after waiting a few minutes, and restarting while it's still warm?

Agreed. An Add a Leaf and/or shackle replacement is all I'd do. Don't overcomplicate.

$77 shipped to my address from Rock Auto. That's where I'd be ordering from.

That's the battery with the wingnuts. The marine terminals are the boxes that distribute power (similar to the fusible links) that are held on by said wingnuts.

Fusible links can definitely go bad. I had the connectors go bad on one of mine a few years ago, and ended up hacking it out, and using a marine style terminal to connect everything that previously was wired via the fusible links. http://www.iboats.com/Battery-Jack/dm/cart_id.274325333--session_id.727511683--view_id.38869

As long as it's not rusting, sure. Specifically look in the front wheel wells at the strut towers. Other than that, make sure to change the timing belt if you don't have proof of it being done.

I assume it doesn't do that when the truck is warmed up? My first WD21 did that in the winter months upon cold startup on cold mornings, and it turns out it was the O2 sensor. The CEL came on shortly thereafter, and the code was for the O2 so I changed it out, and it never stalled on me again. I couldn't tell you why that worked, as the O2 sensor shouldn't have anything to do with how the truck runs in open loop, but it worked for me.

No offense, but why? There's no need on a 3rd member diff like ours. If you had a diff cover like a Jeep, sure, but what benefit, other than protecting the drain plug, will it serve? I've seen, heard, and felt the beatings our axles take, and have never been left with anything more than a scratch. Either way, stacked dimes, and yes, just because it looks cool.

Increased Payload due to higher spring rate and load capacity on new springs. Quite simple. Ever heard of an add-a-leaf, or helper spring? Why do you think that blowing through your hands equates to how a motor takes in air? A snorkel doesn't restrict air flow at the motor, unless the piping is too small. A properly executed snorkel will have the effects I mentioned. Listen man, argue all you like, but until your responses are based in actual real world application, you may want to check what you have to say.

So much of this is wrong, I don't even know where to begin. Body lift will do almost nothing to MPG, a negligible difference on handling, and do nothing to payload. Suspension lift will do almost nothing to MPG, will affect handling (could be better, could be worse, depends on a lot of factors) and could INCREASE payload A snorkel will not make it harder for your truck to take in air. If anything, it adds MPG and power as the truck gets cool, clean air. Not to mention, at speed, the snorkel head acts as a ram air. Mud tires, yes, have a much higher rolling resistance than a normal street tire. The difference in MPG is effected by far more than the tread design of the tire. Typically when people go bigger they also go wider. There's more friction. Not to mention more weight, and, if they stick out past the body, the truck becomes far less aerodynamic.

Done.

The plug IS steel. That's why you can weld to it. The transmission plug is harder to remove becuase of dissimilar metal corrosion due to the transmission casing being aluminum. Exhaust manifold studs come out with ease. The only time they don't, again, is when there's dissimilar metal corrosion due to the heads being aluminum. Check your facts before spouting off. You're simply wrong.

One of your locks isn't unlocking all the way, and the motor senses that and re locks all the doors. It has to be one of the front ones, as the backs don't have"master"control over all locks. As Adam said, clean and lube the moving assemblies.

Yokohama AVID TRZ. Great tire for 3 seasons on my folks 2002 Buick Regal. (They have dedicated winter tires) with excellent treadwear. A colleague of mine has them on a 2004 Jetta 1.8T with excellent results as well. Tirerack has them at $108 per tire.

Most code readers are OBDII readers. The WD21 uses OBDI You can't use an OBDII reader with those trucks. For your brake/ABS light issue, chances are you've got air in the system somewhere. I had that happen once when I had replaced a caliper on my old WD21. I had to gravity bleed the entire system, from furthest from the master, to closest, in order to remove the air, and clear the lights.

Dude, seriously? What the hell does cupholders have to do with the type of car one drives? I take coffee with me to work, from home, every day. If I didn't have a cupholder, I'd have to hold it. That's inconvenient. Think. While you haven't been totally belligerent in this thread, you certainly are annoying. Your point was made with your first post. You think it looks like ass. We get it. Now shut your hole until something changes. Continuously re-wording your opinion and re-posting it is where you come off as a jackass.

110% Yes. My X is 10 years old, and the frame still has perfectly smooth, factory coating on it. Nissan fixed the problem in that respect. I'm willing to bet the fact that the WD22 is built in Tenessee had something to do with better corrosion resistance methods being used.