Simon

I assume it doesn't do that when the truck is warmed up? My first WD21 did that in the winter months upon cold startup on cold mornings, and it turns out it was the O2 sensor. The CEL came on shortly thereafter, and the code was for the O2 so I changed it out, and it never stalled on me again. I couldn't tell you why that worked, as the O2 sensor shouldn't have anything to do with how the truck runs in open loop, but it worked for me.

No offense, but why? There's no need on a 3rd member diff like ours. If you had a diff cover like a Jeep, sure, but what benefit, other than protecting the drain plug, will it serve? I've seen, heard, and felt the beatings our axles take, and have never been left with anything more than a scratch. Either way, stacked dimes, and yes, just because it looks cool.

Increased Payload due to higher spring rate and load capacity on new springs. Quite simple. Ever heard of an add-a-leaf, or helper spring? Why do you think that blowing through your hands equates to how a motor takes in air? A snorkel doesn't restrict air flow at the motor, unless the piping is too small. A properly executed snorkel will have the effects I mentioned. Listen man, argue all you like, but until your responses are based in actual real world application, you may want to check what you have to say.

So much of this is wrong, I don't even know where to begin. Body lift will do almost nothing to MPG, a negligible difference on handling, and do nothing to payload. Suspension lift will do almost nothing to MPG, will affect handling (could be better, could be worse, depends on a lot of factors) and could INCREASE payload A snorkel will not make it harder for your truck to take in air. If anything, it adds MPG and power as the truck gets cool, clean air. Not to mention, at speed, the snorkel head acts as a ram air. Mud tires, yes, have a much higher rolling resistance than a normal street tire. The difference in MPG is effected by far more than the tread design of the tire. Typically when people go bigger they also go wider. There's more friction. Not to mention more weight, and, if they stick out past the body, the truck becomes far less aerodynamic.

Done.

The plug IS steel. That's why you can weld to it. The transmission plug is harder to remove becuase of dissimilar metal corrosion due to the transmission casing being aluminum. Exhaust manifold studs come out with ease. The only time they don't, again, is when there's dissimilar metal corrosion due to the heads being aluminum. Check your facts before spouting off. You're simply wrong.

One of your locks isn't unlocking all the way, and the motor senses that and re locks all the doors. It has to be one of the front ones, as the backs don't have"master"control over all locks. As Adam said, clean and lube the moving assemblies.

Most code readers are OBDII readers. The WD21 uses OBDI You can't use an OBDII reader with those trucks. For your brake/ABS light issue, chances are you've got air in the system somewhere. I had that happen once when I had replaced a caliper on my old WD21. I had to gravity bleed the entire system, from furthest from the master, to closest, in order to remove the air, and clear the lights.

Dude, seriously? What the hell does cupholders have to do with the type of car one drives? I take coffee with me to work, from home, every day. If I didn't have a cupholder, I'd have to hold it. That's inconvenient. Think. While you haven't been totally belligerent in this thread, you certainly are annoying. Your point was made with your first post. You think it looks like ass. We get it. Now shut your hole until something changes. Continuously re-wording your opinion and re-posting it is where you come off as a jackass.

110% Yes. My X is 10 years old, and the frame still has perfectly smooth, factory coating on it. Nissan fixed the problem in that respect. I'm willing to bet the fact that the WD22 is built in Tenessee had something to do with better corrosion resistance methods being used.

I've only had my X off road a few times (busy life the last year or so) but I can tell you this. The Xterra rear end suspension sucks, stock. I've installed revolver shackles and longer shocks, which should hopefully cure this issue. I'll report back on that later. WD21 wins here, so far. The LSD also sucks, with about half the strength of the WD21 unit. This was exacerbated by the fact that I couldn't keep both rear tires on the ground with any reliability. WD21 wins here as well. The increase in power is noticeable, and appreciated both on and off road. Especially given that I run 33x12.5" tires, I need all the help I can get. WD22 wins here. Solid frame in the WD22 is definitely an ease of my mind, and while that's not an issue for all WD21 owners, it certainly becomes one at some point in time for those in salt using areas. WD22 wins here. They both lose for HORRIBLE steering design, as essentially nothing changed in that regard from WD21 to WD22. It was $h!t and it's still $h!t

^^^^ Or lower ball joint. Sometimes the weight of the knuckle/tire/brake/bearings can hide lower balljoint problems. Jack up the truck so that the front wheel is only an inch or two off the ground, then put a long prybar under the tire, and lift up. If there's play, that you didn't notice before, it's most likely the lower ball joint.

There were cloth heated seats in WD21's as I had a heated driver's seat in my first one (95 SE). That said, I've never seen a heated passenger seat in cloth in a WD21, but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

Yes, HB UCA's will work. That's what many of us have run. That's what the Superlift/RoughCountry arms are.

I ran 285/75R16 on both my WD21's with the same lifts as you mentioned. I don't remember the backspacing on my rims, but they did stick out a quite a bit further than stock Legos. I never had an issue, except at full stuff in the rear, which massaged the rear quarters a bit to fit the tires.

1) The speed limit for 4 low should be posted on your visor. I can't remember it offhand, but it's not very fast. 2) You can drive the truck in 1st or 2nd if you want. It won't hurt anything, unless you overrev.

Sounds to me like input shaft bearing. Has the fluid level been increased as per the TSB? If not, that bearing has been starved of fluid. Also, make sure to use GL-4 ONLY. I ran a GL-5 fluid in my first WD21, and destroyed the bronze synchros in the transmission. They came out in chunks.

You need to find rims with a 100mm (4") bore. For those tires, a 7" wide rim would be perfect.

Nope, only 2 of them. The middle ones will come in your kit. Those haven't changed.

Quick fix...pull the anti-theft fuse. Then search for your electrical draw, bad sensor, door or hood pin, or hatch sensor.

They are the same. 100mm bore is required. TOyota rims will fit, as typically they're 125mm bore.

You're correct. The pipe cleaner is stock.

I'm not sold on Poly stuff. Anything poly on my truck seems to wear out FAR faster than it's OEM, rubber counterparts. Yes, poly is stiffer, yes it's more readily available (aftermarket), but I don't think it's as durable as rubber.

Makes sense regarding the intercooler. I look forward to seeing pics of that sucker done up as well. Your work is always a treat for us mere mortals.

I believe it has more to do with manual vs auto transmissions. Auto gets the 4.6, typically, while MT gets the 4.3 Pezzy's is an XE with 4.6 gears. As is my dad's 2002. Both have auto transmissions.