Simon

It's been a while since I saw the front end of a WD21, but is the crossmember not on the frame? IF so, what does a lift have to do with bolting on a skid plate?

1 word: Swype. The best way to input text on a touchscreen. Have it on my Xperia Play (Android 2.3.3) and it's awesome.

Glad you got it fixed up.

Also, it could be the amplifier which is a little grey box bolted to the intake, right behind the coil. It can cause similar issues. Very easy to swap off another truck if you have the option.

There should be holes 3" higher in the frame to allow you to do that. You just use 1 less bolt. Still 2 bolts per side which is absolutely fine for the stock bumper.

5000s are awesome, seemingly lasting forever. 9000s, on the other hand........

The only time I've ever heard of that happening was with extreme play in suspension components, which you've already taken care of, or with a bad shock. It's only 2 nuts to take the shock off and have a look. I know you said they're only 10k old, but a manufacturing defect could cause premature failure.

Right, the TSB speaks exactly of what I was referring to; clogging. Most owners won't clean their transmission coolers with anything, and I know I didn't. I simply flushed/filled my transmission fluid at regular intervals, to ensure it was clean and uncontaminated. Technically, harsh chemicals (those found in carb cleaners, for instance) shouldn't be in a transmission. For most people, it's safer to take the stock cooler out of the loop, and use an aftermarket model less prone to clogging.

Do NOT loop an aftermarket cooler with your stock one. The issue with the stock cooler is that it clogs up. Running an aftermarket cooler in line with the stock one does nothing to rectify the issue.

Lets not get our panties in a bunch here lads. Silverton, your info was good. I don't see the problem. Don't be offended, I have double checked others information a bunch of times, as well as had mine double checked. It's good practice on a public forum, where the quality of information can vary greatly by post and poster.

Am I the only one confused by this explanation? What does an altimeter (used for measuring altitude) have to do with an alternator? Voltmeter maybe what you meant? All lights flash when? If your alternator is not charging, your whole electrical system will be effected.

Not on a WD21. It's almost the same amount of work either way (fuel filler being the major difference). ON a WD22 Xterra, there's a big difference between 2-3" body lifts in terms of how much work is involved.

Not on a WD21. It's almost the same amount of work either way (fuel filler being the major difference). ON a WD22 Xterra, there's a big difference between 2-3" body lifts in terms of how much work is involved.

I've used both KOYO and F.A.G in Pezzy's truck, and they've held up well. You'll be fine with either.

Check your compression rods. It could be that one has snapped, or has worn itself, or the cup down significantly, causing play. They're located at the rear of the lower control arms in the front end. They attach the back of the control arm to the frame.

Sounds like a brake line burst, near the passenger side front wheel. Could be the rubber line, or the hard line. I'd look for where it's wet, and go from there.

Take the belt off, and spin it by hand. It should spin freely, with little resistance, and little noise. Also, it should not have play in the shaft from side to side or up and down. A LITTLE play along the shaft is okay, but not too much.

Check your voltage at the battery at idle. Brake and battery lights are typically symptoms of bad alternator.

People have used all kinds of parts for this job. Personally (and I've done A LOT of timing belt jobs on VG motors) I've never used anything but Nissan parts. To me, it's too important to worry about saving a few bucks on parts, especially since I'm already saving money by doing it myself. I'd stick with Nissan stuff. For Nissan parts, pm Alkorahil (Rob) who has gotten parts for lots of members on the board, to rave reviews.

Personally, if my truck is an auto, I use ATF. If it's manual, I use gear oil. Use whatever is in the transmission.

Exactly. This is why I said to run the codes. Adam could be on track as well with a vacuum hose loose/cracked/gone.

There's no pissing match here, except for you coming into this thread with a condescending tone because no one believes you're right. Calm down.

1000-1500 is not normal at idle. It should be 750 +- 50 rpms at any time, in drive, reverse, or park. Have you run the codes to see if anything comes up?

Beauty place Dowser, but the Niagara region is nice, and closer to us in the GTA.

Wow Tex. Scary stuff. Take care buddy. Let us know if there's anything we can do to help.