Simon

Thanks All!

Not to mention how many rocks are hidden in it. If you know it's not full of rocks, you can keep a little more momentum. If it is, you have to be slow and steady to crawl the hidden rocks. As B said, it really depends on the terrain.

Thanks guys!

Great shot! Congrats Nige!

You're right. I did read the wrong article....saw it on EverythingNissan forums and assumed. myself. Try what's suggested in this thread http://forums.nicoclub.com/p1130-swirl-control-valve-control-solenoid-issue-t277195.html

Check your intake piping for any cracks, and make sure all your vacuum hoses are still connected. P1131 means it's running lean, from what I can gather. Also, make sure you give your MAF a good cleaning. I remember you saying your air filter was all wet, so it's possible some crap got onto the sensor. If it's reading incorrectly, it could cause a lean condition.

The stock CL uses ball joint type ends for the idler and pitman arm connections. They are the weak point. When they wear, it allows the CL to twist, which creates play, misalignment and can cause (or at least, assist) in pretzeling your tie rods. The Grassroots CL uses Spherical bearings pressed into a sleeve, instead of the ball joint type ends. You drill out your idler and pitman arms to 5/8" and install bolts through the CL and the Idler and pitman arms, respectively. This does not allow the CL to twist, which helps keep your truck running straight, and helps reduce wear on the tie rods.

A friend with an Xterra had random cylinder misfires, and all it took was an injector flush to solve his problems. It's possible the injector is just gummed up.

It's the connections on top of the sending unit. Guaranteed they're corroded. I had to jumper 3 different sending units on 2 different trucks for the same reason. It's typically the + power wire to the fuel pump that gets the worst. What I did was cut it off, drill through the sending unit, feed the wire through, and then solder it so the wire for the fuel pump. I then used a decent gas resistant sealant to seal the hole, which works for about 6 months.

Well done, love the ingenuity!

Trailmaster is a 4" lift.

Definitely sounds like bushings or a bent arm if it's the rear axle that's shifted forward.

In Forums, you create a new forum. That makes a "tab" as you've said, for each section. Then, within there, you create subforums.

That's just your heat shield. Find a bolt the right size, and thread it home. Worst case, Manifesto's link will get you sorted if there is actually a manifold issue on your truck.

Don't worry about overdriving the 35w RMS speakers either. Clean power from the amp (not the $hitty amp in your head unit) won't hurt speakers. It's the distorted crap running from a "50w per channel" head unit, that blows speakers. The RMS rating on just about any head unit on the market is about 17w. You could probably run 50-60w clean into those speakers without a problem.

That's fine, this is an exchange. Whether or not you've turned in your core should have no bearing on it being the right part. That's what you've paid for.

I can't wait until the part of the instructions where he tells us what the microwave was used for. Good work B, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Where did you get this CV axle? Can you not return it, and get the right one for your vehicle?

We use phpBB3 for CNTC, and it works well. It's fairly easy to administer and set up, and there are a lot of add ons that make it very powerful. Oh, and on the topic of your father in laws "fight" I can see both sides, though, being able to walk along a shoreline should be allowed. The problem is, there's so many idiots who will abuse that right, and/or destroy people's property that the homeowners adjacent these shores get upset.

The sway bar isn't necessary, but does help the handling characteristics. It does nothing to position your tires, so there's no worries there. It probably did snap due to the lowering springs, as it had been preloaded at one level for 4 years, and probably a lot longer in the car you got it from, then you suddenly changed the angle at which it sat. It's the exact opposite of what happens to our Pathfinders when we lift them. At any rate, a new bar, (stiffer or stock) should last you a long while.

And hers is in the back.

There should be a rubber pad about mid way up each fender that stop the hood from doing this. If you don't have them, pull them off one of your 456 parts trucks.

It may be the ground wire on the harness for the MAF if it's throwing a code. It's not uncommon for folks to have to run new grounds off the plug, as the one in the harness stops working.

I had it happen to me as well in my driveway, but the would be thieves couldn't get the deck out as it was bolted in using stock brackets(saw pry marks on the cubby hole beneath it) and couldn't get the sub/amp out, as the amp was bolted to the box, and the box bolted to the floor. All I had to worry about was the little window. Now, in the X, I've only got an amp driving 4 aftermarket speakers, in stock locations. No sub for me anymore, as I like my space more than I like hard bass. The issue in the WD21's is that the stock speakers are small, and don't produce much low end, unless you buy very high end speakers with an exceptional frequency response. That said, you can massage the holes a bit to fit larger speakers (6.5" components in the front, and 6x9's in the back) which would give you far more speaker options, and better sound at a lower price point.

V6, You know only half the story. You're spouting off without all the knowledge, as per usual.