Simon

Search for the self-depreciation alley thread. There's TONS of dumb stories in there, a couple by yours truly.

For the distributor screw, use a vice grip to get it loose. I had that happen on my old truck.

Check your u-joints on the rear driveshaft.

That is your problem. It should show 12+ there as well. Clean your terminals, and the connections.

Double check the connections at your battery, and at the starter. While your battery may show 12+ volts, the connections may be dirty/corroded, causing less voltage to get to your starter. It's easy enough to check before going through the starter swap again.

The stock cooler is in the rad. The problem is, if they ran the new, aftermarket cooler in line with the stock one, the problem hasn't been addressed. Check the lines from the tranny to ensure they go into and out of an aftermarket cooler and DO NOT go into the rad. If they do, get that switched out ASAP.

It says "Pathfinder LE" in the pinstripe.

If your DRL works on that side, then the bulb and circuit is okay, so it could be the module, or your headlight switch.

If it's bumped, it shows up in active topics.

Probably a bad plug wire.

Change it. They are interference motors, which means 99.9% chance, if it snaps, you make valve soup.

That gets me thinking........I'm sure I could run a pulley to the beam in my garage, run my winch cable through that, from my bumper, then down through the sunroof (glass removed, of course ) and do virtually the same thing as Terrano1992 just mentioned. I may have to try that technique when I finally cave and change my RMS.

CT sells new units. Bosch I believe.

Mine was brand new when installed, not reman. It's done it since day one, as did the previous Max alty I had in there (which was used). Mine never goes above 14.4, no matter how high I rev.

Yep, mine does the same. At 2700RPMS mine starts to charge, then, at idle, after hitting that RPM once, it charges fine. Anyways, I'm going to look into a smaller pulley, but haven't been able to get the measurements on mine yet.

Yeah, sounds electrical to me as well. You said your battery light was slightly illuminated? Have you checked the battery for voltage since you got nothing after shutting it down? Maybe your alternator gave up? Anyways, I spent a good 45-60 minutes just looking at all the hoses/wires that run anywhere near the headers. There were a few that run down the inner fender that I was concerned about, so I tied them back. Also, with your body lift, double check that the grommets in the body are in place, and properly protecting the wires that travel through them. Sometimes, the grommets pull out, instead of the wires pulling through them to give you the lift. It's possible some of the wires to your tranny got frayed/broken.

They'll fit. Backspacing, stock, is damn near the same as well. If they're 15's they may be a little close to the calipers, but if they're 16" or larger, they'll fit fine.

Use permatex copper. Stays flexible, and is high heat.

There are no "quick" and/or "easy" ways to make noticeably more power in these motors. A decent intake AND exhaust will help a little bit, but without getting into ECU reprogramming and cams, they just don't make a whole bunch of power. That said, in my case, I figure with the modifications I've done (headers, hi flow exhaust) and a K&N drop in, I've probably brought my 14 year old truck back to factory spec for power output. I may be harnessing ALL 153hp now.

Yessir. Heated seats. My old SE was only driver's heated, my current LE has both front seats heated. Neither are power.....wasn't an option on WD21's.

Mine's a "Solo" hi flow model, stainless steel. I went to a local exhaust shop, said I like the sound of magnaflow, and flowmaster, in their models with a lower tone. I specifically said I DID NOT want it to sound ricey. This is what I got, and I'm happy with it. That said, it WAS a little ricey at higher RPMS before I did the headers. I guess the leaky manifolds changed the tone quite a bit. I'll have to get a vid with the sound of the thing so you can have a listen.

x2

Yeah, it's fine to run it off like that. The balancer will only go on one way, and the pulley is even all the way around. No worries there. 25 degrees isn't actually that bad, I've seen them further off and still run.

I'd assume the Miata sounds like that due to the small 4 banger. Mine's got a nice rumble down low, and a little bit of growl at higher RPM. On the highway, cruising, I can't hear it over the MT's. Once I get my winter buns on, I'll report back.

To do the outer boot, you have to remove the CV, remove the inner boot and joint, then slide the outer boot down the shaft and off. Installation is reverse of removal. While I have replaced boots before, I don't bother anymore. By the time you realize the boot is torn, chances are you've got dirt/sand/dust/mud/other in the joint. Cleaning it ALL out so that you don't cause premature wear in the joint is very time consuming. For the cost involved, I just replace the whole unit with a rebuilt one, and save myself the hassle.