Simon

Without the top mounts, the bumper will "peel" when winching. They simply help distribute the forces of the pull. I reinforced my stock bumper tabs with some 2x.25" steel running along the tabs. I've done lots of winching, and the bumper has not moved at all.

There really is no need for pics of the mounts. See where your tow hook is? Remove that, there's 2 bolt holes on either side. That's where the ARB mounts, in addition to the stock bumper mounts off the top of the frame. In terms of the winch mount location, to be honest, if I were building, I'd build the bumper around the winch. Then you'd have all the measurements you need. I can try to get you some pics of the winch location in mine, but I doubt you'd see more than a bunch of steel with a winch in it.

The metal sleeve is too long. I had to shorten mine to get everything tight.

Just do it from the bottom. Rather than undo the tranny mount from the crossmember when swapping, undo the crossmember itself, and drop the tranny with it. Installation is reverse of removal.

You're not the first to use baking supplies to fix the hole in the floor. K9Sar did the same. This is a case of whatever works, in my opinion. It's not the most glamorous solutions, but there's no hole in your floor.

On top of the fact that it's only got 2k MAX in upgrades on the thing, the guy doesn't even know what it has. 3" body lift 3" Suspension lift Rough Country UCA's on it. It might be worth $1500, even to a wheeler, and that'd be a stretch.....knowing the history of the truck.

The injectors could be leaking, or could have something blocking the "jet" causing it to pour out instead of spray properly. Since you mention an electrical issue, double check your voltage at the affected injector to ensure it's got a good connection.

It's the blower motor resistor. They do go bad from time to time.

I don't think your motor mount is any different, and I don't remember having to massage mine to get the headers in. I did, however, have the luxury of working through the wheel well due to my body lift. Maybe try working from the engine bay once you have the header in the general vicinity, to get a different angle on things. Maybe you'll be able to work the header around the body mount.

I didn't have any interference with the motor mount at all. It's tough to tell from the pic, but what part of the header is it hitting?

The AC UCA's don't do anything to assist ball joint angle when you crank the t-bars to lift the truck. They follow the same dimensions as the stock UCA's. They're tougher, sure, but don't correct the ball joint angle like the Calmini, or Superlift (RoughCountry) UCA's do.

It's quite possible, or an exhaust leak developed on the other side. Try pulling your truck beside a wall, then rev it to see if you can reproduce the sound you heard.

I noticed a slight increase in MPG, though, that could be attributed to the extreme leak I had at the manifold flange before I installed the headers. Other than that, there's a little better throttle response, a little more low end torque, and an overall smoother delivery of power across the RPM range. My headers are paired with a hi-flow exhaust system, so I'm not sure if JUST adding headers to an otherwise stock exhaust would help as much. Just don't expect miracles, and you should be happy with them if you decide to do it.

Yep. That's a locking type of nut. Nothing to worry about.

Mine too. I was still able to weld to the stud. Use a nut that's just slightly smaller inside as compared to the O.D of the stud.

Did you hook up the shifter cable? I know, stupid question, but it's possible.

Mine, so far, have been good. Though, they've only been on 3 months or so.

They won't work. Not because of your transmission, but because of the difference in the motors between the 87-89, and 90+ WD21's.

Check your grounds on your intake. It's possible one of them is loose/corroded and may be related. Other than that, I have no idea. I only say that, as you said it happened when you did your headers, and I assume you didn't hook up the ground strap to the headers that used to be connected to the manifold heat shields.

What worked for me: I'm not sure if you have access to a welder, but if so, hold a nut over the stud, as centered as possible. Weld the nut to the broken off piece of stud. Then throw a socket on the nut and crank the stud out. If no welder, B seems to have you sorted out

No difference. They'll fit your auto just fine. I have a set on my 95LE with auto.

get one of these: Stick one end in the bottle, one end in the t-case. Fire away until the fluid starts coming out the fill hole. Wipe, and put the plug back in.

Hmm....so if I found an Xterra VG33, I could theoretically swap it in accessories and all.

Well, the Xterra VG33e has the alternator and PS pump in roughly the same places as the VG30

I believe the alternator is in the same place. There would have to be a PS pump, which I believe is in the same general vicinity as the WD21 pump.