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About pulxar

  • Birthday 06/06/1981

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    My truck is a 1994 Pathy SE 4x4 with a 3" lift, 32x11.50 mud tires, Mile Marker manual hubs, a brush guard, Defender roof rack, and some KC lights. I also swapped the stock VG30 for a VG33.
  • Place of Residence
    Federal Way, WA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Federal Way, WA
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Flying, computers and working on my pathy!

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  1. I have a 3" lift with the factory lego rims and I have been running 32x1150s with no problem. Without the lift I think they would rub.
  2. When I did the swap, I had a machine shop bore out the main crank pulley from a VG30 engine. I just grabbed one from the local junk yard. I took them both the crank pulley from the VG33 and the one from the VG30 and told them I wanted the VG30 pulley to match the hole in the one from the VG33. After that all of my accessories bolted right on, no changes needed. I've had no problems since. Here's a link to my write-up, hope it helps! vg33swap.pdf
  3. So while I was working on the bolts for the tension rod, I pulled the spindle arm off and took a pic of the F I was talking about. On the other side (which they could align) it is forward and facing out, so I made the drivers side match. But you're right, there doesn't appear to be much difference between any of the sides. Here's the F I was referring to: Any ideas of if it has a meaning regarding orientation?
  4. Same thing happened to me - I swapped the cluster and it fixed the issue.
  5. I had something similar happen to me a while ago. What happened was the injector I replaced turned out to be a different style than the ones in the car (I also messed up the o-ring which just added to the headaches - so make sure you use a new one with the replacement injector, oh, I used a bit of light oil on the O ring to help it go in easily). The injectors have a blue or black dot on them, and you must match the color of the dot. I had to go to a junk yard and get one as the ones from Shucks/O'Reilly that said they were compatible did not work for me. Hope this helps.
  6. OK, I just found a write-up that called them strut rod bushings and it answered my question about needing to unload everything... I'll give that a shot and see if it changes anything. Beauty of Schwab alignments is the 30 day warranty (and I wonder why the cringe when they see me coming).
  7. The F is on one side of the spindle just outboard of one of the bolt holes (in my case its on the inside, behind the rear bolt, between the frame and the spindle, where you can't see it when it's bolted to the truck). I'd take a picture, but that'd involve taking the whole mess apart again. I looked at the compression rod bushing and it does have some small cracks in it but doesn't look nearly as bad as some I've seen searching around here. Looking at the Chilton manual, it appears you simply remove the rod with the truck sitting on the wheel to replace the bushing? Seems deceptively simple... Or do you need to lift the front end and unload the torsion bars, etc.? In which case might as well do the LCA bushings while it's apart - probably haven't been done in the life of the truck... Thanks Precise1 for all the pointers. It is much appreciated.
  8. Yea, that's the one. I never thought about those other bushings, I'll check them out when I get off work this afternoon. I took a closer look at that spindle last night and it has an f on the back side of it (currently on the rear side). It looks pretty symmetrical me too, but... That f has me thinking that side should be forward?
  9. I have been running the AC upper control arms for a long time now and my truck eats up ball joints like its cool. I also have had other front-end problems that I think may be related to problems inherent in those UCA's. So, in an attempt to alleviate these issues, I picked up some Rough Country UCA's to give me a better angle on the ball joint and hopefully end those issues once and for all. Everything is great with the new arms (especially the ball joint angle), however, they cannot get one side in alignment. It's close, but both the left caster and camber are slightly out of spec, and from what Schwab tells me, there is no more room to change things on that side. I'd not worry about it except that my truck now pulls to the left as a result and I'm sure it's going to kill my tires over time. I never had any alignment issues with the AC arms, so I'm thinking I may have screwed something up when I replaced 'em. My question is whether the bar that mounts the UCA to the frame could be incorrectly installed. I noticed that some writing on it is upside down, so I'm thinking maybe I put it in backwards. Do they have a specific direction that they need to be in order to line everything up? And if they do, is there a way to tell which way is correct?
  10. Yes, it can. I had a broken exhaust stud that made a ticking sound.
  11. Just a thought. I had a lot of trouble getting my alarm to work at all. When I tackled that project I ended up finding that some of the power wires that go to the module were not working properly. There is supposed to be a fusible link somewhere in the wire but I never found it. What I ended up doing was re-running the wires to get stand-by power and ignition-on power to the thing. There is a great diagram for the wiring someone posted a while ago. I'd suggest checking all of the power and ground wires and making sure that they actually are getting power when they are supposed to. There is a great diagram under How To in The Garage that has a wiring diagram that was invaluable in troubleshooting... Fix Your Keyless Entry!
  12. Blew the auto-hub so yay for new manual hubs!

    1. synthetic


      hells yes. did the same last week. :) even ate the spring somehow..

    2. synthetic


      hells yes. did the same last week. :) even ate the spring somehow..

    3. synthetic


      hells yes. did the same last week. :) even ate the spring somehow..

  13. Looks like that did the trick! Thanks everyone who chipped in with advice, as always it is greatly appreciated.
  14. Well, the jury's still out in my opinion, but I coated all three rubber rings on the injector with 90 weight grease and it seated much better than it had previously. It literally snapped right in w/o having to use the cap to tighten it down. I have an uncle who races hydro's and he suggested the same thing as you Precise1, the 1/8 turn and be patient and gentle. I ran it for a while and it seems good. I shut it down and let it sit for about 10 minutes and it fired right up. I'll let it sit for a couple of hours now and assuming that works... So the lesson learned is to always use grease on O-rings to get them to seat properly...
  15. Well, I'm back at it again this morning and think I may have found the issue. I looked at the wiring and tested things as per the FSM. No problems it claims. I also couldn't find a short anywhere. I went and grabbed half of an old fuel rail from a local junkyard last night just so I'd have another couple of 'blue' injectors to monkey with. When I pulled the injectors out of the junkyard rail they all looked and tested good - even the O-rings. I pulled my #1 out and it's brand new O-ring is tore into two pieces. Somehow when I'm installing the injector I am ripping the O-ring into two complete rings! When I installed the injector I put some motor oil on the rings and then set it in the rail. After that I used the cover to slowly (1 turn per side) tighten the injector until it seated and the screws were tight. Is there a better way to seat them? I think that is where I'm going wrong.

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