Simon

Sorry to hear about another Calmini fail. Not surprising with them. I've never run Calmini products, nor will I ever if I can avoid it. I've heard enough horror stories to steer clear. The funny thing is, I have run products from tons of different companies over the years, and never run into any fitment or quality issues, short of the RC UCA sleeves being slightly too long. Otherwise, everything I've installed on my rig, and others rigs have fit flawlessly, including Hoohaa's first foray into steering modification. I bought the one he had made for himself, and installed on his own rig. This was before he started making products for "the community". Bolted up to mine perfectly.

Happy Birthday!

I always ran ceramic pads on my Pathy(s). I got excellent life out of them, and they stopped well. I didn't notice any extra rotor wear due to them, and had original rotors (except 1, which got gouged when a slide pin seized) on both of my WD21's.

Yep, even with years of hard wheeling, Pezzy's only had 1 tie rod end replaced. Everything's still tight. This is the reason they went rack and pinion on the 2005+ X, Pathfinder and Frontier. It's far superior to the steering on the (W)D21-22 model trucks.

Damn near 1:1. A quart is 947ml or .947L. If you interchange quarts and litres, you won't hurt anything.

Well put!

And opinions are like assholes......everyone's got one!

I tried it. Didn't get high enough to get enough fluid in the tranny. I found the shifter hole to be the easiest.

Dudu, your KM2's might be lacking due to size. Each tire is designed with a specific size in mind. Most tread designs for MT's are designed with a 33x12.5" size in mind. From there, the design is altered to fit a 31, 32, 35 etc. So comparing tires without comparing sizes isn't really a true comparison. A 33" KM2 can behave very differently from a 31" KM2.

Yep...it is. The Roughcountry/Superlift arms are great, and Calmini, but you're going to pay big bucks for Calmini. Rancho used to make arms as well, but I don't know much about them.

The don't do anything for ball joint angle. They're the exact same shape and size as stock. Just stronger. I'd pick another type.

Yep, you have an LSD rear diff. Disc brakes weren't uncommon. Most SE and later, LE's had Discs.

Happy Birthday

RIP Jared. Your contributions will be missed here. My condolences to your family and close friends. It's unfathomable what they're going through.

Yeah, the siren is under the hood, the alarm box is under the seat, and the switch is on the center console. Your truck should be pre-wired for all of it. There's also a hood pin that you should wire up, which you should also have wiring for. I don't know if not having it will cause the alarm to go off or not.

Classic! Don't forget to mention "of the trailer!"

Welcome! There should be a download available for your year FSM. Search the forums for it. For the bushings, I believe you're looking for Tension rod bushings, (also called compression rod bushings) On a truck that old, you'll probably get in there and realize the tension rods, sleeves and cups are all shot. This is not uncommon on WD21's. There are a few threads on the forum with different things people have done to fix the problem. Here's a thread with an excellent fix for the problem. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26145

Don't help. Please....just don't help.

SkinnyPedal, who's 6'3", drives a first gen miata. It's hilarious watching him get in and out of the thing.

I'm offended at your complete lack of knowledge regarding Canadian culture. You bastard!

I would be very surprised if that truck doesn't already have some form of lift spring installed. It sits far too level to have stock springs. Yep, you've essentially got a 3+3.

Looks like Silverton's got you covered. Follow his instructions. LPF on 15's should be around 90 as he said. MAX you would want to go is about 120. Turn the "bass boost" all the way down, match your gain to your pre-out voltage, and go from there. HPF level doesn't matter as it's not being used.

LPF is Low pass filter. That should be used for Subs. It filters out high end frequencies HPF is for mid-high range speakers, and is obviously the opposite of LPF. It's possible that something may have blown in the amp when one of the subs got disconnected. Otherwise, try lowering the bass boost, and see if you can get it to kick like it did before.

Pull the fuse when offroad. NOthing to worry about.

Sounds good Steve!