Simon

Out of curiosity, was there any reason you could see NOT to use the stock VG33 crank pulley and accessories? I assume you swapped yours to save money, but would there be any other reason?

They should bolt up just fine. Bolt pattern is the same. The studs are 10mm on the VG33 as opposed to the 8mm ones on the VG30.

Trailchaser was another that did the swap.

It will mount up just fine. You'll need to grind off the antenna tab on the bumper to fit around your grille.

I was working with a metal fabricator at the time. We were careful to keep most of the weld on the new steel, while only lightly hitting the frame (enough to penetrate, not enough to warp) the steel. While it may not be the same method you described, we were conscious of warping the hell out of the frame.

Chain. All VQ motors are chain driven.

Was the truck warm when you checked the timing? It'll idle far more steady when warm, and should take out the bounces you're seeing.

Better in some ways, worse in others. Replacing the UCA's on an X, usually requires cutting the Camber bolts out. Not to mention, the camber can go out of alignment easier.

If the steel isn't creased, a plunger may be able to pull it out to look 90-95%. If it's creased, you'll need to fill it with something, but try to pull it out with the plunger first, and see what it looks like.

Well, that isn't pretty, but it's fixable. One thing you'll want to do before coming here, is start spraying lube on the bumper bolts, and hopefully break them loose, so we can take it off to gain access to the rearmost portion of the frame.

Typically the inside of the rail doesn't seem to rust, or not nearly as bad. The outside, and bottom get it the worst. That said, it's always good to check the whole rear of the frame, on both sides, as things can vary.

To give you an idea of what I've done on my truck, here's a couple of pics.... what I started with, driver's side. In progress (tacked) In progress (welding almost done)

Meh.... hopefully he'll help someone else out when the time comes.

I believe you would need a passport, but I'm not 100% sure. I know we need them to enter the U.S. As B said, typically, anybody who's going to be able to weld your frame, will already have their own equipment. I use flux-core wire, which, isn't pretty, but doesn't need to be for frame work. One of these days I'll get myself set up properly for MIG work, but it just hasn't been necessary, for the amount of welding I do.

Well, you're welcome to come to Canada (I know, it's quite a hike) if nothing else comes through for you. I could weld up your frame, already have the welder, and would only ask that you keep me caffeinated (Tim Hortons within walking distance of my house), and pay for materials.

The suspension is currently COMPLETELY unloaded. The settling with stock bars, that have been in the truck for 15 years should be minimal, especially going back up to the same height. Either way will work, Fueler..whether on the ground or off, I've just found it easier with no load on the suspension. Personal preference.

Off the ground. It's a hell of a lot easier to crank the t-bars with no load on the suspension. It'll take some trial and error to get the level right, and make sure that when you're at proper ride height that the adjuster is tucked up into the crossmember. If it hangs low, it can get ripped off on the trail.

Bolt pattern is different, so a new tranny would be needed. Physically it MIGHT fit, but you'd need to change a whole hell of a lot, including the ECU, and harness just to get it to work. Not worth it. Buy a VQ40 equipped truck.

X2. As long as the splines aren't screwed on the adjuster, or the t-bar, this should work just fine.

Pull the ABS fuse and see if your braking improves. Mine had an intermittent problem with little/no pedal pressure which resulted in my ABS light turning on. Pulling the fuse fixed my braking, and I still haven't had the time to fiddle with the actual problem. Hopefully it's an easy fix.

There's no stress on the front end now....so everything will move as designed. As soon as you stress it (read: put weight on it) the weakness in the CL shows itself. If AT ANY POINT the CL twists, it's shot. Jacking the front of the truck up and moving the steering components is not a good indicator of their functionality. What vehicle drives with it's front end in the air? You need to simulate driving stresses.

They should be primed all the time, if the fuel system is maintaining pressure. That said, a small leak at the sending unit, or anywhere along the lines, can cause it to lose it's prime.

Tested and working! Good job guys!

Its definitely worn out. It should not twist. The fact that your tire moves without the centerlink or the idler arm moving means there's play. No 2 ways about it. The tires SHOULD NOT EVER turn without the entire steering system moving with them.

Absolutely in no way is that "normal". It should not twist. Look how far your wheel can turn before the steering linkage does. If both sides are as bad, you potentially could have 2-3" of play in your steering. How would that be alignable? That play is 99% the reason why your idler arm crapped out on you. Get her changed out Mr. P!