Simon

Are you sure it's the lifters, or are you pinging? Check to ensure your timing isn't too far advanced. If that doesn't help, try a slightly heavier weight oil, and/or some Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

Sorry to insult you sir. Though, I fail to see where this would be a high precision job, given that you have adjustment in both tie rods to take out any variance you might have in terms of center. Not to mention, given that these are pre-drilled, you're just boring out an existing hole, so the bit sort of centers itself. At any rate, it's a "last straw" option if you want to save yourself $60. a 3/8 shank drill bit would be considerably cheaper.

Otherwise, drill it out on the truck. It's actually not that hard. That's how I did both of mine.

Sounds like your right about the driver's side being installed incorrectly.

Exhaust leak is 99% sure the manifolds. Does it quiet down once the truck warms up? CEL won't be illuminated by a bad tach. The digital guages in the 94-95 were horrible, and the tach seems the worst of all. Mine acts up periodically. In terms of wire colours, I can't really help you without pulling out my own stereo, which I can do if no one posts anything up to help. There are 2 stock amps in the right rear quarter panel that might be bypassed in your current setup, hence the extra black wires.

Follow the 99 and below for your truck. 99.5 and 2000 are slightly different (a little more than just body changes) and the 2001-2004 are pretty much the same(VQ engine equipped) throughout.

It won't make a big difference, but the easiest way to do it is to remove the shifter, and pour in from the top. That's how I always did my old 95 with MT.

Check the ground for the deck.

This sounds exactly like the symptoms a member here had recently. His fix was a new transmission, as his syncros were shot. He was popping out of gear, and had issues with bearing noise as well.

1/2" Breaker bar. 18" long minimum.

It does solve these problems, yes. They do wear out....but Grassroots was good with me for getting a warranty replacement. It takes A LOT longer for the modified CL's to wear out than the stockers. I ran probably 30-40 trails on mine before it gave up....2 years.

I believe you'd have to fabricate a new crossmember which holds the safety loop for the driveshaft. I remember Trailchaser had to do this because he's running really tall coils in the rear of his truck.

Yessir. I ran GL-4 in my old T-case. It worked just fine.

By decent, I most definitely did NOT mean stock. You need something upgraded. I've killed brand new stock CL's on my first wheeling trip. They simply cannot handle the stresses.

Oh, I know you weren't involved, buddy. Just a bad situation, that one. It got real ugly in a couple of places.

Yeah, it looks like it would be. The principle seems to be sound.

Your TRE's are bending because of the worn CL's. Get a decent CL on that thing, and your TRE worries will end. They'll still wear out faster than on a truck that isn't wheeled, but you won't be bending them anymore.

Yes. I've seen it done on a number of occasions. 12.5" wide.

Happened with an Xterra as well, and the owner got a partial settlement. You might know of that one as well Mike.

Absolutely no problem with that.

Definitely possible.

There's a bleeder on top of the intake, at the back. THere's a sticker beside it that says "Never open hot" or something of that nature.

There are some GL5 fluids that contain harsh additives that tear up bronze in Nissan transmissions. Not all GL-5 fluids contain it. If your bottle says it's save for syncromesh transmissions, or safe with soft metals, or compatible with GL-4 and GL-5 applications, you're probably alright.

Yep...tie rods rotate. No issue there. Sounds like the CL needs to be replaced, and you can save yourself a few bucks by just replacing the bushings/seals in the IA instead of buying a whole new part. Short of bending the shaft, that's all there is to wear out in them anyways.

Yep...the same thing to check for wheel bearing play, only, on the sides of the tire, instead of top and bottom. If there's play, you may need a helper to move the tire, while you check for the area with play.