Simon

Cool. Check the ground for the ECU. Maybe it's popped itself loose? Are your dash lights turning on, and off as per normal when you put the key in the on position?

Doesn't sound like ECU is blown. It could definitely be a power problem to it, or the ground on it. It also sounds like (aside from your troubleshooting) when my sending unit failed on my truck. Died suddenly, started back up with all lights, but wouldn't run, due to lack of fuel pressure.

Balmer, yours sounds like the MAF. Have you cleaned it, and the connector lately?

You're hitting the throttle too hard. It'll automatically kick into "Power" mode if you hit the throttle hard. Some folks have reported it also does it if you "double kick" the throttle.

Well, yes and no. If the fan is already on as you're getting on the freeway, and the air hits it at a faster rate, thus, increasing the temperature (air can't get through the rad, as discussed) the fan won't turn off.

While it's not that big of a pain in the a$$ to flip a switch, I just didn't want to go through the hassle of having to remember to turn the fans off when on the highway, then forgetting when I hit traffic, or regular city streets, to turn them back on.

Wrong Alex. The first gen R50's had a power UPGRADE from the anemic VG30E in the WD21's. Believe me, having driven both on a fairly regular basis, the R50 even with the VG motor has WAY more power than a WD21.

I had dual e-fans out of a Ford Escape installed in my truck. I just, this past weekend, went back to stock. I found that I would run quite warm on the highway, and whether idling, or around town, my temp guage would be 1/8th of the way up. Highway was up around 1/2. I have a theory as to why this is, and I think the fans didn't spin fast enough, and effectively created a wall, stopping air flow through the rad at highway speeds. Mine were mounted on the inside as "pullers". In the extreme heat we had on the weekend, I ran at 3/8ths whether on the highway, or in the city, A/C on or off. That's more like it. A friend of mine, who spent good money on an aftermarket e-fan solution ran into the same issues I did, and has also gone back to stock on his Xterra.

If the right side was loose, and you tightened them up, it may have brought the left side down as well., thus "loosening" the bolts. Things like this should be checked a couple times to ensure that all the bolts are tight across the gasket.

I had to grind/cut some material off the top of the clino to get it to fit there. Once I clearanced it, it was smooth sailing.

Similar..... Derek's got his mounted above his stereo.

Downhill, off camber.

Well, long overdue, (I've had the damn thing for almost a year) I finally got my inclinometer installed. Big thanks, again, to Tex getting me the unit. I took a page out of Derek's book for the install.

Okay....so?!?!?!? Does it leak?

You are correct. The reason more R50's haven't been done is because a lot of folks saw the unibody chassis as a major hurdle. That, combined with the rack and pinion steering makes things more difficult, as compared to working with a full frame, and more traditional linked steering (steering box, centerlink, idler and pitman arms).

Not by well over 10 years...

Who the hell says "brah" anyways?

I'm not sure about that. You may be right, B. I believe the red is gas and oil resistant.

If using Permatex stuff, use the red. It's higher temps, and sticky as hell. Great stuff.

Here you go... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038

You don't have to pull the bar, just the adjuster. loosen off, slide it back, rotate, then put it back on.

Reindex the t-bars, so you can re-crank. Search the forums for the procedure That'll get the front end level with the rear.

A little milder cleaner would be to add a quart of ATF into the oil. It'll help clean out sludge. Drive for a couple of days with it in there, then do your change as normal.

I have done it, on 2 or 3 occasions where an impact gun wasn't available. Worked just fine. The key is to bump the starter. Not crank it over for 10 seconds. We're talking a <1 second bump. Take the coil wire off the distributor so she can't fire up.

I've used both. For quick reference type of stuff, I'll use Haynes/Chiltons. Otherwise, if it's a complicated procedure, or the work I'm doing is critical to vehicle performance, I'll use the FSM. There are discrepancies between Haynes/Chiltons and the FSM in terms of torque specs and fluid capacities in some cases.