Simon

Not 100% true because if they care enough to test drive it after, the truck will probably still pull. I had my old truck done without the drop bracket (still don't have one) and it pulled even after alignment done by a friend who was a very good mechanic. Just tell them to get the front in spec, and disregard any pulling, as it's due to the rear axle being out of place.

Those aren't Roughcountry. They're Rancho.

It all depend s on how hard you hit the accelerator. It could be either. But if it's the same downshift he feels when hitting the OD off button, it's an actual gear downshift, not TC unlock.

Nice to hear of a shop taking responsibility for their work for a change. It's so rare these days. Hopefully she holds up for you for the long haul Scott.

You offended me!!!! MODS, BAN HIM!!!

In North America, we didn't get Patrols. That's one fairly major setback. Only ones here have been imported.

Yes, tires flex, but at the bottom, where the pressure is. A flat won't "take it out". It may rub a bit on there, but if the tire's already flat, you gotta stop or slow down anyways.

Yep....P doesn't work on my WD21 either. Only N.

Your 99.5 shares the same body panels and overall look as the later model R50's. The 99 is the same shape as the 96-99 models. Basically, it was almost 100% cosmetic in the 99.5 re-release, except for a change in the rear mounting locations of the shocks. (I think) To be COMPLETELY compatible, you'd be looking at 99.5-2000 trucks for parts. Though, there are plenty of parts from both the 01+ and 99 - that will fit.

That distance between tire and strut is static, meaning, it cannot change. Unless you have significant play in your wheel bearings, a lower ball joint catastrophic failure, or the 2 camber bolts come loose. Under normal operating conditions (not on/off road, but normal as in, your truck running properly), that distance will not change.

Remote starter most likely screwed up the wiring. This is not uncommon, and one of the main reasons I won't install one on a vehicle. Time to rip into the wiring.

You can't do that with the T-bars unless you find a way to angle the mounts on the lower control arms. Then you could theretically put them back in the stock location on the crossmember. Though, you'd have to modify it as well to accept the t-bars coming up on an angle. I'd say it'd be easier to just get a skid plate made that covers the t-bars.

Yep, mine as well. Forgot about that issue, though, it relates to both MT and AT equipped trucks.

Not a problem. It'll work just fine, out of the box. No modification necessary. There's lots of slack on the shifter cable, as I had no issues with my 3" BL, and there are plenty of other folks with body lifts on their AT equipped Pathy's.

It definitely sounds like the torque converter.

huh? Backwards?!?!?

I will say no to the stabilizer. I run 33's, with the same steering setup as you, and have never felt a need for it. Granted, my steering is in good shape. I believe a stabilizer will simply mask problems, making it tougher to tell when something's amiss with the steering components. From what I've heard, OME is top quality stuff. I wouldn't hesitate if that's what you want.

Weird, both my Pathfinders, and Pezzy's came from one of the Japanese plants.

Basically, disassemble the hub, unhook the outer tie rod end. Unbolt the inner CV joint from the diff, then slide the whole shaft out of the knuckle. Take off the inner boot on the CV, and release the snap ring to disassemble the inner joint. Release the inner snap ring to remove the other part of the CV, so you can slide the inner boot off. NOW, you can undo the clamps on the outer boot, and slide it off the shaft. Then reinstall the new boot, reassemble the inner joint (don't forget the inner boot) and reinstall the shaft. For all that work, IMHO, it's worth it to just replace the whole thing for $65.

Where did he get auto hubs from? No stock R50 had auto hubs. They had fully engaged splines.

Yessir.....no auto hubs on an R50, so the CV's, front diff and driveshaft turn regardless of 4wd shifter position. That's why Manual hubs are an even better upgrade on the R50 as compared to the WD21.

You can just replace the boot, though, it's more work than just replacing the shaft. The grease came out because of the tear in the boot. Yes, it's safe to drive, especially since I assume you'll be in 2wd the whole way home. Granted, on an R50, the front drivetrain turns even in 2wd, (unless you've got Warn hubs) though, it's a low stress condition anyways.

It's not 52Wx4....it's maybe 15w x4, as you're limited to the output of the stock amplifiers.

X4 on the boots. It looks like they aren't ripped, but pulled off. New boots, and tighter clamps should server you just fine.

Bah.....I hacked out the links, and hard wired them to a new + terminal. Much more secure, and no issues.