Simon

They use a chevy tie rod end for the inners

That works too! Good job!

Nope. 2 bolts per side. Accessible through the wheel wells.

OOOOOOOOOOOH. I thought that the threads were stripped. Yep, hammer a socket on there, or try vice grips or what K9 suggested.

Top or bottom? If it's the top, you might be able to put a clamp on the "tab" that sticks up to help press the bolt out as you unscrew. You should be able to reach it from under the truck, with the front skidplate off.

What bolt stripped? The ones that thread into the frame?

Just remove it. I've had my front bumper off 2 95's without any issue or bolt breakage. Never been an issue. There's only 2 bolts per side, accessible through the wheel well. It's a hell of a lot easier than trying to do it with the bumper on.

I was thinking the ring clamp as well hitting the ball joint. Double check that all the bolts on the inner side are tight....it could be flopping around a bit.

Thanks B. I initially had typed 1.25, but thought that was wrong.

Not really an option with the airbag, as far as I know.

heh.....well, that was pre skid plates. She does put her skid plates and sliders through their paces....that's for sure.

You may not like this answer....... Pezzy had that happen once, and her subframe was bent to sh!t. Hope that's not your issue. Otherwise, may be time for an alignment.

Yep, you can do that. That's what AC (4x4parts.com) does. They have proven a little tough to source though, so you will have to weigh the value of your time. I believe they're 12mmx1.5 about 180mm long.... (someone please confirm) They are for the 2 rearmost body mounts, and thread into captive nuts in the body.

Search around a bit. This has been discussed.... Basically, the UCA's allow for proper ball joint angle, and alignability of the truck, when you lift the front end. Torsion bar crank with stock UCA's (Or AC's for that matter) will make the truck very hard to align, and will put the upper ball joint at the extreme of its designed angle. If you have run out of upward adjustment on the t-bars, you may need to reindex them. Search the forum for the instructions on how to do this.

You MUST crank the t-bars to achieve lift in the front. No matter what UCA's you use, lift is only achieved by cranking the bars.

See if it continues leaking. If not, I wouldn't worry about running synthetic. 3 7/8 - 4 L isn't a whole lot of difference. I wouldn't put any more in there though.

Yep. Freakin amazing. With 12v, you can weld sheet. 24V (2 batteries) you can weld 1/2" no problem. 36V (3 batteries) you can apparently (have not tried it myself) weld 3/4". I've used it both at home, and on the trail. Outstanding. Trailchaser on here uses one, and is also a distributor of them. He's got a bunch of YouTube videos of his in action. I've only got one, and here it is.... name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars="">

Good luck finding a 110v 200amp unit. I don't believe such a device exists.

Bad ground, I'd assume. I hope you didn't tap into the dimmer at all with the aftermarket stereo, as I've never heard of that going well in a WD21 Pathfinder.

Nice design. I have to first see if I can manage to straighten Pezzy's out and reinforce it. I may just go ahead and add an access window for the oil filter while I'm at it. If not, given Pezzy's propensity for turning her front skid into soup bowls, we may be interested, depending on price.

Most likely it's the sending unit. The float may be installed too low, which would translate into a reading that's too high.

220v is better. You'll be able to weld hotter, longer, and get some good beads on there that should hold for a long time.

Nope.....the stress is taken off the link when the other side is disconnected.

Yeah, pretty much. Where there is sufficient steel available on the existing frame, I've done a couple of plug welds as well, but basically that's about it.

I've always used a MIG or Flux Core wire for frame repairs. I usually leave the bad steel in, as it's typically not near the edges. Then I grind away the surface rust near the top and bottom, and start tacking my new piece of steel on. Work in different sections so you don't overheat and warp any one section.