Simon

Right....I knew I read that, but forgot about it. There's definitely an issue if you can't have the truck running at proper idle. If it were me, I'd set it back where it should be, so I could at least start as close to "baseline" as possible.

There is one about a hard/no start condition at high altitude.....not sure if it's related or not.

idling at 1300rpms in park is WAY too high... Should be about 750rpms

No sir. Your rear axle has 33 splines. Not 31. There is no locker, other than the ARB that fits the R50 as far as I know.

That all depends on the width of the tire, and the offset of your rims. The more they stick out the more you'll have to trim. If you stay relatively close to stock offset, you shouldn't have to trim much at all. FWIW, I ran 32's on only a 3" SL for a couple of years with no issues at all.

Sure. You can weld it......have fun driving it on the road in the winter.

Truck motor for sure. The clutch fan gives it away.

No option for a detroit locker in your truck.

A locker is far better than both those options. If I'm not mistaken, they're just selling Nissan LSD units.

There was something about this posted years ago....I believe it was a TSB noting that the WD21's performed poorly in high altitudes. I can't remember what the fix was.....

Well, yeah, it would be beneficial to swap in a beefed up LSD unit over an open diff....for sure. Labour is a tradeoff, really. Re-and-Re a stock LSD (beefed up or not) or install the ARB, you're looking at roughly the same amount of labour. Depending on how much you could beef up the stock LSD for, it could prove cost effective over the ARB locker. You wouldn't get the same performance, but it'd be decent. To swap in a stock R50 LSD in place of your open diff, IMO, is not worth it. The stock lsd in the the R50 is pretty weak, approx half the breakaway force of the WD21.

For the cost and effort, off road, the locker will FAR surpass any stock LSD unit. On the road, turn it off (ARB is your only option for your truck, I believe) and it'll drive just like it does today. Same goes for the front.

Locker for sure.

Yes, it's been done. A friend of mine had discs added to the LSD on his Xterra. Works almost like a full spool now. I, unfortunately, don't have the specs on the procedure, but it was posted here a while back. Search for Rebuilding LSD or something like that...

Definitely check your wiring and/or switch first.... Otherwise, it could be the motor, or possibly the wiper transmission is seizing, putting too much stress on the motor, causing the fuse to pop.

I don't think his is the same issue. My e-fan works just fine, and my alternator doesn't charge at startup, until I hit 2700rpms once....then it charges just fine.

No problem man. Glad to hear it's going to work out. Jim is a good guy from what I hear. He's had a big hand in building this beast....

Just be careful that you don't end up with the same problem with the new one as you have with your current one. The bottom hole may not be the same size. The WD22 seems to match the LATE WD21's....don't know when (if) the switch happened on the idler arms.

THe idler arm from the (w)D22 trucks is the same as the WD21 (at least the later ones) as I have a friend who's running the idler arm off my old truck on her '02 Xterra. Exact fit.

Put a wrench on the inside of the frame, (not inside the frame) on the bolts. They bolt right through It's a 17mm IIRC.

Fan clutches do die once in a while, again, not terribly often. Thermostats don't typically fail in these, as when a timing belt replacement is performed, generally the T-stat is replaced as well. Overheating isn't usually an issue, as when/if the fan clutch fails, more than likely it will seize, causing it to sound like a bus, but not overheat.

A/C should kick on as needed with the defrost setting. If your AC isn't working (mudfinder95) that could be another reason why your defrost isn't working properly.

I realize that. I'm surprised that the Quebec shop is seemingly a shambles given what I've heard about the Burlington store.

An 8K winch will probably draw 350-400amps at full load. That's way more than any alternator is going to put out at idle. This is what necessitates the deep cycle batteries, as I'm sure over prolonged use, your Wal-Mart battery will die, as it wasn't designed for deep cycle applications. I run a 90amp alternator on my truck, with an Optima Yellow Top, and it does the job.....though, I tend to keep track of how the truck is doing in winching situations, as I don't want to leave myself stranded as well.

Wow. That's surprising. I've heard nothing but good things about the Burlington shop. If you're willing to drive this far, also check Rockspyder4x4. They did an ARB locker install for a friend with an Xterra and he was very happy. www.rockspyder4x4.com