Simon

Yeah, and/or take the interior panel off and try to bang it out.

Fair enough. Your truck.

The difference between 29's and 31's in power and/or MPG would be negligible. I have gone from 30" tires to 33" tires with no noticeable change in MPG.

If you're not doing the whole exhaust (all the pipes and everything) there's no need to spend big money on the cat and muffler. If you want to do the whole exhaust, expect to spend 8-900 on a full high flow stainless system.

There's tons. However, it depends on how much you want to spend. There's aluminized stuff that's cheap, and you could just throw a glasspack (Cherry Bomb) on for a muffler. They can be had for around $20 at CT. For the high flow cat, just call around for the cheapest one you can find. Probably be around $80-100 If you want to go stainless, it'll cost you.

LE/AUTO/LSD/4.6 FWIW Old Red was SE/MAN/LSD/4.3

Why not get the 31" tires. They'll fit a stock WD21

Yes you have the right idea. The motor is actually really easy to pull out. There's a thread around here about cleaning out the housing as it's common to have a bunch of crap in there. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...zzard&st=20 That post shows removing the blower motor resistor, but you can see in one of the pics the blower motor is right there. Just unbolt it from the housing and drop it down to see if anything's jammed in there, or if a fin broke, or it has a bad bearing.

You can adjust the entire housing on most reflector style headlights. I'm not sure where they are on the R50's though. I could go out and have a look at Pezzy's in a while, if someone doesn't pipe up with the answer shortly.

Yeah, they don't seem angled very much, especially not compared to the others. Oh well, as you said, "until the SAS".... Your solution looks good

3/16" should be sufficient if you've got some bends, or braces in them

Looks like an interesting idea. The Superlift/Roughcountry UCA's that are angled to help with ball joint, which I think would have alleviated your need for those. Correct me if I'm wrong, but those are AC UCA's yes?

Swampers.....That all depends on the type of wheeling you do. In mud, yes, they're fantastic. They SUCK on rocks. And wet rocks....you may as well have street tires on. IROKs are good from what I hear, but you won't like them on these trucks without a SAS. 13" wide is too much for the IFS to handle, even if you can fit them without chewing the hell out of the sheetmetal. That's compounded by doing any sort of wheeling where a tire as "serious" as the IROKS are required. Stick with a 11.5-12.5" wide tire MAX on IFS, or forever be rebuilding your steering suspension components.

Typically, yes.....

The pricing doesn't seem bad, though, I haven't really looked for any of those parts recently. Not sure why it's "with holes" especially on the corner pieces, unless they mean where the corners and main bumper meet up.

I don't believe there is on a 97. OBDII vehicles typically require a reader.

Very cool Martin. I've been looking for some 150amp marine style breakers and they have them. If I can't find them locally in the next little while, I'll be ordering one of those from there.

Gave way = broke? Or came loose? If they came loose, no big deal. If they broke, that can be a real pain to fix.

Basic reasoning is this. Vehicles take a LOT longer to warm up when idling as opposed to driving. With a fuel injected, and thus, computer controlled car, the vehicle runs in open loop, meaning, it simply dumps fuel in to keep it running at a predetermined rate (which is usually quite high). This means that there's a lot of unburnt fuel getting to your sensors, which throws them off, and can actually, long term, cause damage. Best bet is to drive it to get it into closed loop as quickly as possible, so that the sensors are actually doing their job, telling the ECU to lean out the fuel mixture, thus being more efficient, and running as it should. Here's a couple of other quotes....

You do know that idling fuel injected vehicles isn't good for them, right?

Welcome back man!

There's the crankshaft pulley, a washer, the timing cover, harmonic balancer, and then the washer, and bolt in that order. The washer that goes against the crankshaft pulley is the thin metal one.

You're right about that UNCC. They only go one way, and the top overlaps the bottom.

Typically, if you have the alarm switch, you should have keyless entry in the later model WD21's. Quite possible the PO's lost the remote. Double check the connections at the alarm "brain" under the drivers seat. Could be a loose connection causing your flashing, or just a dead alarm. 4H and 4L should be different yes. You should have to push down on your shifter to get into N or 4L If not, there's something wrong with the linkage I'd suspect. Mine gives me a little grind going into 4L, when stopped and have the tranny in Neutral, but that just lets me know it's working.

The test isn't really a test exactly. By running the diagnostics, your ECU is flashing out any stored codes it may have. So any malfunction it's stored. In your case, everything seems to be okay, as code 55 indicates no malfunctions (everything running okay, as you said). The ECU is constantly looking for values within an acceptable range, on all your sensors. It does this all the time, and works on your fuel mixture based upon those values.