Simon

You paying for the gas? Also, what he doesn't have is 200lbs on the front of his truck, and 200lbs on the back of his truck holding him down.

Wow, slow vs slower! May as well be arguing the wheeling of the Corolla vs the Civic.

That's your torque converter lockup.

On the topic of voltage, I will be replacing all the connections at the fusible links in the near future, as my positive terminal is less than fantastic at this point. I'm hoping some nice fresh clean connections will alleviate my charging issues, otherwise I have no idea where to look.

Oddly, since I added the lift and tires and weight, my mileage hasn't suffered. It's slower than it was, but my mileage is around the same, might even be better, given that my speedo/odo shows 18% off now. It's very strange. And mine's MPFI

Nope. Everything works fine, once I've hit 2700RPM's once.

Weird....my gas mileage has been pretty low on this truck since I got it. I'd attributed it to the AT vs my old trucks MT. (and the fact that I've got 6" of lift, 33's and a whole bunch of extra weight) That said, I've read your other thread regarding low idle, and mine exhibits that trait at times as well. I wonder if the two are related? Out of curiosity, when you start your truck, are your lights dim until you hit about 2700RPMs? I've had that problem on my truck since day one as well, new battery, new alternator, and checked all my connections....yet, it won't charge until I've hit 2700RPMs once, then I can idle all day and it'll maintain a charge. If I find my solution, I'll report back.

I never found mine horribly stiff either.

Gas charged shocks extend. Regular shocks do not. My Rancho 5000's didn't extend.

I'm with you man.....whatever's on sale, as long as it's a trusted brand.

Those are strut rod, or tension rod, or compression rod bushings. They're relatively easy to get, though, from what I hear, a pain in the a$$ to replace.

Relay Rod = Centerlink? If so, changing it out shouldn't affect your alignment, though, I wouldn't trust how good the alignment is if the centerlink is toast. It's as simple as unbolting the centerlink, and tie rod ends, and replacing.

The "air chamber" is just a resonator, to quiet down the intake. It does nothing. Mine has been removed for a long time.

Don't bunch the rest of us in with him!

Yes, or you could add more clutch discs. A friend in my local club with an Xterra has done just that.

A suspension lift will get your frame/tranny/tcase up a little higher for off road clearance. Though, a body lift will get your rockers up higher. To be honest, the only reason to lift, is to fit bigger tires. You don't gain any TRUE ground clearance with any lift, without putting on bigger tires. a general rule of thumb with these things is 3" body lift + 3" suspension lift = 33" tires. There are some who've run 33" tires without a body lift, but that's the typical way.

I've e-mailed Richmond about this for clarification. I'll post their response when I have it.

It probably is. If you click the Powertrax logo at the top of the page, it opens a PDF Application chart. According to that, there is NO NoSlip application for ANY Nissan. I have no idea what Rocky Road is doing.

I had the same problem with my old truck, and it was always the MAF wiring. I just gave the connector a jiggle, and was good to go.

Daytime Running Light.

Well, if you put the spacers on the coils, not on top of the strut, the struts would only extend to regular droop, and wouldn't do anything to your CV's, as they'd still be within stock spec.

He didn't say stock ride height, he said stock ride. Theoretically, you could do that, however, on full droop, your CV's will extend further than intended, which could cause issues. Other than that it would work.

Nothing you need. Just buy the hubs. They swap right over.

Never.