Simon

Here's a quick way. Disconnect both, put them both in a bucket. Have someone turn start, and shutdown the truck VERY quickly, and see which one the fluid comes out of. The best way to do it is with a dual chamber (one for new, clean fluid, one for the old, dirty fluid) fluid pump used by mechanics, as there's no chance of your transmission running dry at all. Be sure to keep a lot of fluid in the tranny at all time if you're going to do it yourself.

Typically, you need to go 3" suspension, and 3" body lift to run 33's without rubbing. You can go with a narrower tire, which may allow for less lift, but it's still not necessarily the way to go.

It's okay to reuse. Just be careful prying it off. Little by little, all the way around the cap. If not, you'll dent the cap, and it'll never seal well. There's an o-ring on the hub that it sits on, be careful not to damage it. You'll see it as the dust cap comes off.

When was the timing belt changed? Frame rust, and body rust, typically in the floorboards. One spot under the driver's right foot, the other under the back seats.

When you take the hub off, you can punch out the inner bearing, and grease seal in one shot. Replace the seal FOR SURE. It's only like $15 for the pair. That way you can clean out everything, and repack properly.

The filter is just a screen. No need to change it. However, drain/fill isn't the way either. The best way is to flush with new, clean fluid, and recover the old fluid with the truck runnning. Run 14L through to ensure that as much of the old fluid comes out as possible.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/path..._4731_4735.html It's up under the dash, as far as I can tell from the diagram on Courtesy Parts website

Very cool Dave. The vid with the lighter surprised me.

Nevermind the haynes manual. They're crap. Go to www.phatg20.net and download the proper factory service manual for your truck. You'll also need WinRAR if you don't already have it to decompress the rar files. (works exactly like WinZIP)

There should be a switch on the center console. If not, you don't have them, or the previous owner took out the switch(es)

If you do have heated mirrors they are turned on when you turn on the rear defrost.

The problem, I can guarantee is the electrical connections on the sending unit on the top of the tank. I've had similar issues on 3 separate occasions in the past. IT's a horrible design. Your fuel pump is mounted to the sending unit, then the sending unit is bolted to the top of the tank. You'll most likely have to replace the sending unit, as it's not really reparable.

Um.... Nissan Patrol?!?! OH, and NaturaTek. There was no all wheel drive (or full time 4wd) on the WD21's. Either it's 2wd, or 4wd with the shifter.

I just looked in the FSM, and there's no mention of the nut size. My inclination is to say M12x1.5, though, I'm not 100% sure on that. Your only real option is to pick up a few nuts in M10, and M12 varieties (those would be the only sizes I can think that they would be) and try to see which one fits, since you're missing both lock nuts.

Download WinRAR. It's free, and will extract the .rar files for you. It works almost exactly like Winzip.

Well, the first pic you posted is of an R50 pathfinder. That's not 1st generation. The security switch won't do anything for you if you don't have the alarm unit under your driver's seat. The second switch, if you have an AT equipped WD21 Pathfinder, you should already have. IF not, it should be simply plug and play. Factory service manuals can be downloaded here http://www.phatg20.net/component/option,co...c,select/id,31/

SkinnyPedal did it TWICE last year. He was lucky the first time, in that after the ECU dried out, it worked again (we shut it off when he was stuck in the water, before it hit the ECU). The second time, he needed to swap it out.

I'm inclined to think your inner seal is probably shot. It's a $10-$15 part, and could save you a lot of hassles with bearing issues.

They are.....now. It's a truck...it doesn't need to be fast. HP number mean absolutely nothing. Torque is the only thing that matters.

He never posted all that much before.

153

I do. I have a dual fan setup out of a Ford Escape. One comes on as soon as I turn on the truck, the other, when the A/C kicks in, which, is finally fixed. All in all, it works well, and I don't feel the draw of the compressor as much as I did before. That said, my truck is slow as molasses on a cold day at the best of times. 33"+ tires, ARB/Winch, full skids, custom rear bumper/tire carrier all add up to a slow ride.

Rev hard, release....tranny shifts. Same sort of thing all the way through the gears. I'm thinking of trying dieselboy's old trick of having a separate switch for the torque converter lockup. There are times when I just want it to stay locked, and let the tranny run through the gears.

Yeah....that's it.

I voted Automatic, and I'll specify why.... I've had both. 2 95 Pathfinders in both manual and auto. The auto is way easier. It handles the abuse fine, with a proper cooler. The manual is good, but unless you're REALLY good at driving stick, you'll find yourself worrying about abusing the clutch too much, and you'll be harder on the rest of the truck avoiding it. I miss my 5 speed when on the road, but I don't miss is nearly as much as I thought I would on the trail.