Simon

Pickles is right. What you're doing, is effectively lessening your approach angle by extending the front end of your truck. The first time you hit something with that thing (and you will) you'll destroy the bumper, and the mounts behind it. Get it attached to the frame horns (as Mr. P said, where the stock tow hook is attached) and cut off the useless mounts at the bumper. I'd even go so far as to leave a little gap (1/2" or so) between the bumper and the push bar, so that when it flexes (and it will) when you hit something (see above ) it doesn't jam into your bumper.

Good stuff.....I'll have to pass that info on to my dad, as he trailers his boat every now and then, and I don't believe he crosses the chains.

All good advice, Bowtied....though, I have one question...... Why cross the safety chains? I've never heard of that before.

Yep, I run the same size with a 3+3, though, my suspension lift has sagged quite a bit due to heavy bumpers, winch etc. You can fit them with some minor sheet metal trimming with the lifts you've specified. Be careful when flexing though.....as the tires will rub fairly hard on the rear quarters (mine were all dented in) when stuffing the tire.

Check to make sure the hazard switch, when turned off, comes back out all the way. I once had a piece of paper towel jam in there after a cleaning, and it caused the exact issue you describe.

SO, your upper control arm is resting on the bumpstop, yet you're still not high enough? Do you have a bumpstop on the other side? Maybe that's why it's been allowed to go up higher?

Here's one, which, I'll admit was really clean....but MY GOD...what a hideous paint job. Saw this last May on the way to a trail run...

Nope....if it's not pissing out oil, you're fine. Just don't keep overfilling.

3 5/8 quarts with filter change.

LOL...you got that right.

No. Not so much. To give you an idea, the alternator on Old Red was ORIGINAL (316,000kms) and it died the same time as the truck did.

You used 3/8" steel on a floorboard!?!?!? From the factory, our frames aren't that thick! 16 guage steel is PLENTY...

A tip for the rear bolts...... Soak in Penetrating lube, and use an impact gun. It seems to help break the rust loose that would normally seize the bolt, and have it snap.

Even at $300 for the RC arms, and $100 for the JGC coils, you're still in better shape than with the $900 Calmini lift.

You gotta hose the thing out every now and then. I've killed alternators before, but I routinely go through 2-3' of water, and I don't kill it THAT often. Water won't hurt it....it's the mud that does it, unless you've got a break somewhere in your wiring that causes a short when it gets wet.

Calmini is a waste of money, in my opinion. Their bushings are crap in the UCA's, and their rear coils are no better than JGC coils. I have run stock t-bars with my lift with no issues, and I have an ARB, and now a winch. I don't have a drop bracket for my panhard rod either. To be honest, you can do a good suspension lift for under $300......

Yes, he said that. (MAF) Ultrafinder....I'd try to find a known good #6 plug wire, and throw that on there. If it's an arcing sound it could be that the wire is arcing on the block.

This information is all over this site, though, admittedly, our search function sucks. Look at the plate under the hood, on the passenger side, near the firewall. HG46 = 4.6 gears HG43 = 4.3 gears

Actually, it seems if you turn the truck off, before the ECU gets soaked, it will (or at least, can) live. SkinnyPedal swamped his rig twice last year, once we were able to get her running again, after drying out the ECU with WD40, and paper towels. The second time, we had no such luck....it was fried.

Yeah, I'm with Tex on that one. WARN Premiums all the way. Oh, the search function really sucks, unless you use the advanced search. Just a tip.

heh... A lot of people got a kick out of it.....that's for sure. Anyways, as an over-the counter modification, no....there isn't much you can do. I don't believe there is a direct coilover swap for the R50. That said, money talks, and if you want it bad enough, you can make it so.

Did you give up on the $100 SAS'd R50?

Well, unbolt, then cut the hoop itself to get it out of the crossmember. You might be able to pull it out without cutting, but I found that way easier. I don't think it does anything for the floorboards, other than weaken them due to the stresses caused when the body flexes.

Live and learn! I figured it out when I looked at SkinnyPedal's rig, and saw his was gone, and he never had that issue.

I didn't know it was so common, or at least, I thought folks knew what was causing it. At any rate, cut it out, and you'll be much happier.