Simon

They are geared low. That's how they get any power out of the 3.0L V6. The one good thing is, you can fit 31x10.5x15" tires on it, stock, so you'll gain a little higher gearing, just in tires if you upgrade.

No worries on your english. Thanks for the info. I'll have to look into it.

front shocks will, I'm not sure on the rear.

I believe hoohaa had (has) a long arm Pathy, and I believe a couple of the SAS'd folks have had to do it as well.

I second that. That's the best looking homemade snorkel I've ever seen. Details please!

Yep....they WILL sell them separately...and have for many members here. Mine were about $170 USD shipped.

Nope, they will not fit. Same issue as the Titan/Armada wheels.

Alright then, I'm thoroughly confused as to when, and why they put that button in, or not.

Yes, but my new one doesn't.

That all depends. THere's a few folks who run 33x9.5 or 10.5 wide tires with just 3" of lift, and a little cutting. Some people have 6-7" of lift, with wider 33" tires, and rub. The key is offset on the rims, and width of the tires.

That's what I had thought as well. I thought the "standard" stuff was only for Domestics. At any rate, good luck, and please do report back....that's a great price.

Only Manual tranny equipped models have it.

Meh....replacing a boot with a PROPER boot isn't that bad, and typically the right boot is cheaper than the split ones. NOt only that, doing it the right way allows you to clean off all the grease, and get any and all dirt out of the joint, inspect it, re-pack with grease, and re-install. I did it on my old truck and it only took me about an hour and a half. NO biggie, and only cost me like $15CDN, grease and all.

Or use a wrench on the top bolt.

Same ball joint. Interesting bit of trivia..... Aftermarket WD22 Xterra UCA's use WD21 Upper Balljoints as the replacements, since the stock ball joints on them are press in only.

That depends on where it has broken. IT's a 2 piece unit, 1 from the handle to about halfway back on the truck. That cable is easy to replace. At that point, it splits in to 2, and goes to both rear wheels. I can't comment on the difficulty of replacing that section, as I've never done it.

You can get the #6 plug out, and replaced with a typical spark plug socket and ratchet, with a couple of extentions on it. It's just a matter of knowing where to reach. IT'll take you a while the first time. NGK Platinum plugs at LEAST. Some use the Iridium plugs, some don't, but definitely go with the platinum ones. for wires....there's stock replacements, and there are upgrades. Stock are 7mm, I believe (thickness). I hear that 8mm wires are supposed to help give you a little stronger spark, though, I don't know. These aren't "high performance" engines by any stretch of the imagination. If your wires/plugs are old, you'll notice a bit of a difference by simply replacing with stock components. Personally, I've used Niehoff wires, in 7mm thickness, and they've been fine.

Why take the chance. As MZ said....remove the plug for a few seconds, and then replace. Then re-check the level. IF you want to be REALLY precise, drain into a measuring cup.

Any time!

It doesn't have to be EXACT. 3.5 or 3.75 qts won't hurt you. Just eyeball it, and check the dipstick, Dipstick! You're over by 1.5 quarts....THAT is a lot.

Yep. 3.5L (3 5/8 qts) is what's required in our Pathy's. NOt a whole pile of oil in there, which is part of the reason why you have to follow the change interval closely.

The axle shafts are exactly the same. Passenger and driver's side are interchangeable. Most likely something is in between the CV, and the inner bearing, not allowing it to extend out enough for the snap ring to work. Either that, or you just didn't pull hard enough. There should NOT be play (or very little) in the CV with the snap ring on the inner groove with the stock hubs. IT's possible that the CV was replaced, and the ring that's supposed to be on it (right by the outer joint, near the splined shaft that goes through the hub) wasn't transferred to the new shaft, thus allowing for play. With the milemarker hubs, the snap ring should go on the outside groove, after the hub body has been installed. Then the cap with the lock/unlock dial is installed. At least, that's the installation procedure with the Warn manuals.

Have a look at your CV boots. If they're busted open, and the grease is gone, you could have clicking CV's, though, that'd only be in 4wd. Otherwise, it could be something as simple as a rock in your tire.

I agree with you Martin. My stockers, cranked up, do just fine. Now, if I start bottoming out once I have a winch installed, I may look into stiffer T-bars.

Another thing to check would be the ground on the distributor. IF it's not well connected, worn, or corroded, it can cause issues.