Simon

Cheap pads + cheap rotors = too much heat that the cheapo rotors can't dissipate.

If it was in 2 lo, you definitely would have spun tires. It was probably in 4HI, and you simply didn't have enough torque to pull the car, or break traction. Nothing else really makes sense, unless there's something seriously wrong with your truck, which I doubt.

Standard transmission helps with that. With the auto, it only makes sense to be in 4lo. There's a lot less stress on everything.

It will break traction....if the surface is slick enough.

The tie wrap does look kinda goofy, but what can you do. I assume the proper hold points have rusted off. The far left is a little disconcerting....I'd just get it sitting closer to the axle, even with a zip tie as they've done in the middle. Why, though, if you thought it was wrong when you picked the truck up, would you even leave the shop?

You won't pull a car in 4hi if it's not running, out of the bushes. 4lo is necessary.

How do you think they cover busses? You could do it, I used to work for a company that did vinyl stickers, and wraps. Make sure you don't use an interior grade vinyl, or you'll be re doing it.

Did you have it in 4 low?

download it from phatg20.net http://www.phatg20.net/index.php?option=co...elect&id=31

Well, here's the thing..... on MANY occasions, gentlemen, hard lines are not available from the dealer. You cannot purchase the part, and put it in. I know this was the case with my parent's Exploder. Many of these things are done before the body of the truck is even put on, so working with a long hard line along the axle can be time consuming if you're not taking the body off the frame. Not to mention, an hour of labour at a shop is at least $75 nowadays. How long do you think it takes to make a brand new line, install it plus a wheel cylinder, and then bleed the whole system? I'd say it's not too bad. If it's hanging down below the axle, it should be redone, otherwise, it WILL equal a stock repair, or better if they know what they're doing.

Very nice!

Check the voltage on your battery now. Maybe your alty isn't charging your battery.

AC = Automotive Customizers www.4x4parts.com

I've done 3, and never had to remove the shaft....just had to lube, loosen, and tap. It also helps to get a prybar in the wings that pinch over the splined shaft, and pry them open a touch.

That's VERY common in fluid starved 5speed trannies. 4th will never make a noise, ever. Mine went on like that for over 80,000kms until it finally started really grinding, and had to be replaced. AS SOON AS POSSIBLE..... a) drain the old fluid fill to 5.1L of GL-4 fluid ONLY. Do NOT use GL-5 as that could have contributed to the noise you're hearing as well. You can throw in about 20% Lucas Oil Stabilizer in there as well, as it can't hurt, and has been know to quiet down the whine a little.

$119 is a good price. I paid nearly $300CDN a couple of years back for an aftermarket unit. I'm willing to bet 90% that it's the wiring, not the pump itself. Even my original pump was okay, but not knowing what I was getting into, I changed it anyways.

The other thing to check, being WD21, is the fuel sending unit which is on top of the gas tank. You can access it via a panel in the cargo area, under the carpet. I've had the wiring go 3 times in total, twice on my old truck, and once on my current one. The design of the wiring hookups is absolutely ridiculous, and leaves the wires susceptible to corrosion.

Careful about wheeling with those on. THere are pics around here somewhere showing the damage to stock UCA's with spacers in.

Sounds feasible JJ. I'd say it's worth a shot. I have no rear swaybar on my truck anyways, and I notice no difference in on-road conditions.

Yep...Black Magic stuff is awesome. The protectants are always no water formula, which means they won't dry out, and crack your dash, or anything else you apply it to.

Dude, what's with bumping a 4 year old post?!?!?!

It could simply be seizing, especially if you don't use it all the time. I'd get under there, and grease any section of the cable not covered in a sleeve. Also, check the linkages at the rear wheels, and grease them accordingly.

Sorry dude.....search around. You'll find that on a stock WD21, 31x10.5R15's will fit just fine. The difference in how tires are measured is easy. Let's take your stock size, for example...... 235/75R15 R15 = 15" rim 235 = 235mm wide 75 = 75% "aspect ratio" What that aspect ratio means is that you take the width (235mm) and multiply it by .75. That gives you the height of 1 sidewall. Add the 2 sidewalls, and the rim diameter together to get the total height of the tire.... Or use this.... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Well, you'll be doing all the labor to take the thing out....so I guess you have to factor in your time vs the cost of a solenoid vs a cost of a starter.

They're all small drain stuff. You'll be fine with the stock alternator.