Simon

Also check to see that the clips holding the adjusters are present, and not worn out, allowing the adjuster to slip backwards, and off the bar.

That one would fit the 96-99. Pezzy's running a TJM for a 96-99 application on her 99.5, and it fits just fine. The only issue is the antenna tab, which had to be ground off. I would assume the only issue you'd have with fitting that bumper to an older R50 would be a slight gap in the center of the bumper near the grill.

a winch bumper, without the winch in it, makes 0 difference. I've got a 3" suspension lift, and a 3" body lift but stock torsion bars, with an ARB on the front. I've yet to install a winch, and will have to reserve comment on handling differences with that variable until I do install one.

IT's funny cuz it's true! Yeah, as suggested, rule out the wheels/tires first. Get underneath and check for play in all the areas suggested, be it ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings etc. Everything should be tight.

The other spot to check for the fuel smell is the small fuel hose between the rails. THe clamps on that could use a tightening.

Daytime running lights are supposed to be your highbeams. At 50% power.

Scott, my parents Exploder had the same issue. Heat, but not much of it.....and mom was getting pissed off. We took out the t-stat, and tested it, (boiled water, dropped it in, it opened, took it out, it closed) however, when we replaced it (already had the part, and it was only $20) the heat worked perfectly. We had coolant flow, and it wasn't stuck open. What we believe is that it was opening too early, thus, allowing the truck to heat up partially, but not to the proper operating temperature.

I have yet to find aftermarket 5x7's that fit directly in the holes for the speakers in either of the 95's I've owned. I've had to trim to get them to fit, or have run 4x6's, even though the stock size is SUPPOSED to be 5x7.

A lot of times that's simply from oil changes, as the oil filter is on the passenger side of the engine. It could very well be nothing to worry about. Then again, the oil pressure sender could be leaking, and/or the oil filter. As long as the rear main seal isn't leaking, it won't be too bad to fix if it is, in fact, a leak. Look at the seam between the engine and tranny for oil...if it's showing there, good chance it's the rear main.

I believe the VQ series had an issue with bad coils......it could very well be one of them causing your issue. I believe there was a thread on this quite a while ago....search around. You may have to expand the search options to allow for older posts.

The idler pulley for the AC belt is somewhat common to fail. Easy test....remove the AC belt and see if your truck still makes the same noise. As far as I know, the clutch fan should spin more than 1/4-1/2 a turn.....it may be a combination of both those things.

It's minus 16 degrees celcius here today.....-25 with the wind chill. No issues starting. Tranny was a little slow and hard shifting, as I'm sure the ATF was like molasses. I've started the truck in -30 weather with no issues.

NO...it's not carbureted. It's TBI injection. Yes, you can run the codes. Search around on the site for the instructions on how to check the codes.

Yes. However, corrosion sometimes seizes them on there pretty good. Some penetrating oil, and a couple of taps on the sleeve should break it loose. That is, of course, if you don't have a puller.

I've got the ElmScan 5 USB and it's a great little unit. Works well with all kinds of OBD2 software.

Passenger and driver's side are the same. The ones from the 89 should work. I believe they changed the front spline count in 90, but don't quote me on that.

The t-case is the same whether manual or automatic transmission. The only things that changed are in 1990 the VG30i (TBI injection) became VG30E (Multi-port injection) To keep the rust away, get it undercoated YEARLY, and make sure the drain holes in the frame are clear. Spray it out often with clean water. I've heard of some folks coating the insides of the frame with Fluid Film, or motor oil.

Yep...most likely.

Not always. Run the ECU codes (search the forum for instructions). It may show up there, even if you don't have a CEL triggered.

The module under the driver's side seat was most likely the ABS computer. The one under the passenger seat is the ECU. They should both work fine for you, as long as they were from an Automatic transmission equipped truck. (Auto ECU's can be installed in either Auto, or Manual trucks. Manual ECU's only work in Manual trucks) I'm 99.9% sure there was little to no difference in the ECU programming between 94 and 95 trucks.

WOah....I take back my initial response.... I didn't realize you have an R50. There's a recall for the fuel filler tube on some R50's. Before you take it to an independant shop, call your local dealership to see if the recall applies to you.

Well, it could be a few things. If the sending unit and/or fuel pump had ever been replaced, it could be leaking there. It's tough to seal back up sometimes. Could be the filler, and/or vent tubes leaking, or it could be a bad fuel line (steel, or rubber) as they run right along the passenger side frame rail.

You MUST go through the airbox. If not, you've got absolutely no air filtration, and will kill your motor quick. Just ask Max. PVC will work, but will look like hell, unless you can find a way to hide the holes in your fender, and hide all the angled pieces.

Um...no. 3.0L for 96 (was only in the hardbody), has the same interval as the 3.3L. All VG series engines from 93+ had the 105K interval. That's when Nissan switched to a round tooth design for the sprockets and belt.

I've heard from my metal fabrication master that he's got a "plan" for sliders for my truck. Considering how my rear bumper turned out, I'll let him play Once we've got them built, I'll have pics to post.